| Author | Message | ||
     Dpg |
So while I've been concentrating on the broken bolts on the head and buying the NRHS mount from American Sport Bike it dawned on me I haven't looked at the front isolator. I ordered one from American Sport Bike figuring that it must have failed hence the two broken bolts. Well, I pulled the isolator this afternoon (love those 14mm nuts/bolts) and found no sign of damage. The mounting bolts looked like brand new without any corrosion. Isolator has the following markings on the top circumference: BARRY 28043- a bump with what looks like a 4 on it. Then CURE with four bumps that look like a 4-00 on the bumps. Is this a replacement? Bought the bike almost three years ago and it had 8,000 mile on it (about 28,000 now). Question is... if this is a 'CURE' isolator  and not the original OEM isolator should I re-use it and sage the American Sport Bike item for 'later on'. The vertical bolt that connects the isolator to the OEM mount wcoated in corrosion as is the metal sleeve in the isolator. Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Firemanjim |
Gary,if it looks good re-use it.The cracks are obvious when they start to go. And those were 9/16" bolts and nuts unless a former owner used some non stock fasteners. Clean the corrosion and slap some anti-seize on that bolt. Just did one yesterday for Sportyeric,his was toast when he arrived in route to San Fran. Took no time at all. | ||
| Dpg |
Thanks Jim. Good to have a back up isolator then. Is Sportyeric AKA SportyE the drummer that had the really nice blue Sportster? Haven't heard from him for a long time and I thought he moved down to SoCal. The stock part number is listed as a 16207-79B. What did it fit back in 79? Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Hippyjoe |
What did it fit back in 79 FLT in 79, FXR a couple years later, same isos. Supposedly Buell designed that rubber-mount system as well. | ||
| Dpg |
So if this isolator is from Eric's FLT design in '79 and the Tubers use the same basic number 79B then why is there an issue with the newer big twin isolators being too stiff? I'm guessing others have tried using aftermarket replacements or the specs were changed when the later 79D parts came out. In any event, I had the two bolts sheer off at the head and the isolator didn't fail. I have to assume that the repeated hammering I went through on the streets of Berzerkely was the cause. I'm usually on the highway or at least a smooth set of twisties and never traveled on such a bad road surface generally. Safe ride, Gary, DPG | ||
| Oldog |
Garry: the Barry28043 is the manufactuers # that is the "Buell" part in essence Cure-4-00 is likely the batch info These are slightly modified industrial anti vibration mounts. Barry is one of several companys that make / sell them most are made in China " to their specs " , (maybe all come from the same plant) the issues have been that the standard isos seem to be short lived ( I had 2 fail in 6 months, I replaced them all front and rear , then broke the bolt in the head (left) the broken bolts usualy result from, loss of clamping on the head mount, based on what I have seen and read on BWB, Mine failed that way. when you re-assemble the mount, the pads must be flat with no gaps on the mount, the heads should be welded up rethreaded and milled flat to match the mount faces (these need to be flat too ) minor ( small ) cracks in the front rubber mount are ok and may be normal aging when the engine is hanging on the mount if the molded edge is gapped from the metal any amount then your part is failing look in the KV or archives for the old school threads there are several threads on this subject. ( I posted up pics of a failing mount ) | ||
| Naustin |
You guys all know how much I LOVE the front Iso. My wifes blast is losing another one. It has 9000 miles on it, and this will be the 3rd time I've had to replace it. This part has about 1000 mile on it right now. It hasn't totally failed, but having seen 5 or 6 fail, I can see it starting. Could go on the next ride, or be fine for another 1000 miles. The rubber is separated around 270 degrees of the mount. Then I went to Al's site and I see he has posted a warning that the new parts are not up to spec and are known to fail in as little as 1500 miles. Nice to know I'm not crazy or the only one having this issue. As far as I am concerned, however, this means the factory parts are useless. This last couple of summers and all the problems with front isolators is something I will never forget, or forgive. I'm thinking of ordering an after market big-twin alternative. I've heard of Velva-Ride and True-Track. I don't know yet... Researching right now. | ||
| Buellistic |
Naustin: Know what you mean about the BLAST ISOLATOR(-79C) which is the same as the one you will get if you buy a ISOLATOR(-79C) for your TUBE FRAME BUELL ... Get the H-D 79D or the DRAG SPECIALTIES one ... The BLAST is harder on FRONT ISOLATO}R than the TUBE FRAME is ??? The FRONT ISOLATOR was the 1st thing to BREAK and then the valve keeper notch was next on my 2000 BLAST ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! |
