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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 24, 2009 » 'bout to change the 'ol tires « Previous Next »

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Bluzzit34
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So this isn't necessarily tuber-only discussion, BUT-
I am about to take off the wheels to get some new tires put on. I have a rear stand but not a front. I'm trying to be cheap. I have never taken the wheels off yet, so any ideas on

1) tips to take the wheels off easier,
2) how to take the front wheel off without (buying) a front stand,
3) things to do/check/replace while the wheels are off,
4) tips when putting the wheels back on.

I know I'm asking a lot of stuff, but I usually have issues doing things wrong the first and second and third time, then finally doing it right. Thanks fellas
-Nick
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Jramsey
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since you have a rear stand use a set of tie downs and hang the front from rafters or garage door track, if you don't have a garage use the neighbor kids swing set.

Check wheel bearings,brake pads.

Sprocket side wheel spacer must be held in place while re-installing wheel into swingarm.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or, if you have a floor jack, put the rear on the stand (strap it to the stand if possible for stability, or run a single strap to a rafter for stability) and put a jack under the front of the muffler. Jack gently until the front tire is off the ground. Disregard if you have a non-Buell exhaust though, the Buell stock and race mufflers are jack points and many aftermarket are not.

Depending on your tuber model (electronic versus gear speedo), keep track of all the speedo drive pieces (if cable driven) so they go back in in the same order. Torque your pinch bolts properly. Align the rear end correctly and get the right slack (for a tuber, the spec would be "lots") in the belt. Usually for a tire change, I don't even move the adjusters, just pull the axle.
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1 floor jack and 2 tie downs and a chain link fence works for me. I jack at the rear swing arm mount point.
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12mpghwy
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A cheap fold able engine crane is cheaper than any motorcycle specific stand. I got one a few years back at one of the local auto parts chain stores for about 70 dollars maybe on sale. I use nylon straps to just pick the whole bike up.
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Yo_barry
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use a stand for the rear that lifts at the rider foot pegs. To get the front up I use a floor jack under the front exhaust mount.

Getting the front caliper off of the rotor off is a PIA. Just be warned. This is what works for me--Remove brake pads, loosen the rotor mounting screws turn each one about half way out, remove caliper mounting screws, remove caliper.

After the caliper is clear, remove axle nut, loosen pinch screws, remove the axle. Wheel will drop out. Reverse process to install front wheel, remembering to loctite the rotor screws.

Rear wheel removal is pretty straight forward. When you reinstall make sure the brake caliper holding pin finds it's way into the slot inside the swingarm.

Adjust the belt per the owners manual with the suspension fully unloaded.

I'd check the following when the wheels are off:
Wheel bearings
Brake Pads
Belt
mounting hardware for the hugger (inside rear fender)

Have fun!
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Bad_karma
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure to pull the pads out of the front brake before you try and take the wheel off. Pay attention to the bushings and their placement. Clean the trash out of the caliper piston boots. Check the front brake disc for excessive radial movement. Tighten the front axle before you tighten the clamps on the bottom of the forks. Don't over tighten the belt, the manual is way too tight. Ensure that the rear brake caliper is properly installed in the guide inside the swing arm. Take your time and get the rear wheel alignment very close. Good time to inspect. Lube the axles with a lite grease like lithium. Good luck and enjoy.
Joe
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Buellboiler
Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have found that when installing the rear wheel, it is easier to lift the wheel up into the swing arm; then moving back into position versus moving the wheel in from the rear of the swingarm. Seems like there is more room just forward of the adjusters on the swing arm.
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Midnight_rider
Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i use 2 small jack stands on rear, bottle jack on front thick sponge between front of engine case under header
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