| Author | Message | ||
     Harold |
I thought I remembered seeing on here a way to modify the rear brake to actually work, without changing it all out. I can't believe that a disk brake can't be made to stop the tire at more than 10 mph. Does anyone still have this, or did I just dream it? | ||
| Kilroy |
Change the brake line to braided SS | ||
| Skntpig |
Aggressive pads (HH), a good bleed, and a heavy foot will lock the rear at any speed. My front brakes are so good that the rear tire is skittering off the ground when braking really hard. If you use the front correctly the rear brake will be unnecessary at speed unless you're trying to back it into a corner or slide the rear for effect. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: The REAR BRAKE should have "MAX." FRICTION with out "LOCKING UP REAR WHEEL" !!! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Make sure your brakes are bled AND bedded-in. I heard many complaints of the 1125R having a useless rear brake. I use it a lot in the winter, sand and gravel don't like front braking. Since my exhaust shoots condensation right at the disc, I drag the rear brake a little on my way out of the subdivision. Keeps it clean, I can feel the junk come off and bite improve. Bed & Bleed Z | ||
| Ratbuell |
Bed and bleed must make a difference. I can lock any of my rear brakes, at any time, if I stomp too heavily on the pedal. S2, S1W, M2L or Uly. All stock setups (lines, pads, everything). I also use my rear brake a lot, part of my slow-ride technique when I had the old FLHP. Slow speeds = clutch vs. rear brake for stability. Also pulling to stop lights on the rear brake, not the front. +1 on dragging to clean, too. I guess all this combined has helped me fight any rotor glaze.... | ||
| Limitedx1 |
Bled mine with new fluid and double h pads with a scalloped braking rear rotor and they are touchy now! key is to bled all the air completely out, i got lucky doing mine but others have alot of trouble. might be a best bet to remove it and do a bench bleed | ||
| Kalali |
I was always told that it is not safe if the rear brakes locked up easily. My old Honda locked up much easier than my X1 and I almost got into trouble a couple of times because of it. I'm sure it also depends on how much you weigh when you throw your weight on that pedal. I am at 145lb and I can not lock the brake even if I stand on it but it does slow down quite well. | ||
| Harold |
I will bleed it. I just got this S1W, but my old one I bought new, and the rear brake on it wouldn't lock up unless you were pushing it. I thought I remembered someone talking about changing the pivot point on the brake lever, to give it more motion, and therefore more fluid and stopping power. When trying to stop from flipping in a wheelie, a good back brake is essential. | ||
| Purpony |
my X1 rear brake is useless as well. You dont even know there is a brake there. I put new pads on, rebuilt the master, bleed the system using a vacuum, and still nothing! | ||
| Buelleaver |
I can lock my rear brake anytime I want also. That’s not the problem with mine. The problem is these rear brake has a terrible vague feel . Press it nothing happens, Press it a little more, still nothing, press a little more, lock up. I love the bike but the rear brake is nothing to brag about. That’s with lindal pads, good bleed, ect. It helps a little to keep them from glazing. You do most braking with the front, but the rear is still very important also. There are some good articles on the web about braking, and the ones I’ve read conclude using both brakes work best. And what about trail breaking? Of course how much rear to use is an intuition thing (Message edited by buelleaver on June 12, 2009) (Message edited by buelleaver on June 12, 2009) | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Rear brakes on my x1 are pathetic to say the least, but as little stopping power as the rear offers, I won't be spending time or money on improving them. They work well enough to hold me at a stop light and to scrub a little speed off in the corners. That's all I need. The blast I had before locked the rear pretty damn easily.. Made for some interesting wet-road experiences. | ||
| Sloppy |
Bottom line - if you wanted a bike with aggressive rear brakes then you should not have bought a Buell... Of course the Buell is considered a 10 best stopper so you can't complain that they don't have great brakes! I understand what you're saying - so if you want more stopping power in the rear then you will need to size yourself a new master cylinder to piston area ratio. Do an online search to get an idea what area ratio you want. Good luck - I don't know of anyone who has actually done it. Personally I LOVE having the confidence that I can trail brake with the rear all day long on the street or track and never worry. | ||
| Loki |
I guess I ought not mention that my S1 now sports a two piston Brembo unit. Or for that matter, that the RS has a four piston PM caliper out back. | ||
| Buelleaver |
My point was not so much about needing power, I want better feel. Not that no off switch feeling. Now that I’m thinking about, I’ve add a braided line to my what to improve next list. | ||
| Blks1l |
I was about to mention the 2 piston Brembo, which I haven't gotten around to installing on my S3 for 2 up riding. Dean | ||
| The_italian_job |
I updated my rear brakes on an S1WL with PM 4 piston caliper and Braking wave disc, it's very nice! | ||
| Loki |
Its been to long since I rode a Tuber with the Nissan set-ups. I have been used to the single piston Brembo on the S1. Always felt vague until I dropped in a set of Ferado pads. I did the two piston (Brembo P32F caliper) swap, just to do it. I wanted some more brake and better feel out back. Mind you this was not a direct bolt on operation. Originally this caliper was destined for the RS. Until I happened across a PM adapter for the tube frame Buells. Then the hunt was on for one of those out of production 4 pot calipers to fit it. So the RS got the shiny parts. The S1 now sports a one-off custom(I used 7075-T6) caliper mount and a Brembo(Ducati) non floating caliper. |
