Author |
Message |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 05:51 pm: |
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I plugged in EcmSpy today for the first time, and the TPS was 7.1% to begin with, but the tuning guide I have printed says to zero it, then adjust the idle screw to 5.1% The bike started and ran fine with the 7.1% setting, now the bike will barely start and doesn't want to idle. Is 5.1% just a rough value that should be adjusted accordingly until the bike runs right? btw - this looks like amazing software, especially considering that it was free! I've got a DirectLink setup too and tried using it first but couldn't even get it to connect with the ECM. |
Lowroad
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 05:57 pm: |
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That's just a starting value to get it to turn over. Adjust as necessary to get it to idle at about a grand. |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 06:01 pm: |
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thanks. Now I'll go clean the plugs off and try again. I was exploring the software and ran some of the diagnostics tests. After hearing the fuel pump and injector tests running I'm guessing I've got some fouled plugs I'm amazed at how user-friendly these bikes are.. even a newb like me can (eventually) figure things out. |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 06:06 pm: |
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After you zero the TPS, turn the idle screw up to about 5% so it will start. After it's warmed up, adjust the throttle so idle is 1050 RPM. Use EcmSpy tach to set this. (You might want to verify that idle setting with the FM, my memory is perfect, just short!) |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 09:12 am: |
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Pk short form back idle screw out Until the throttle plate is totaly closed snap it shut once or twice make sure that its shut set zero adjust to 5% start and warm bike and adjust for 1050 tick over. make note of the AFV value should be right around 100 any thing as I understand it outside of 90 110 window should be investigated. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 11:02 am: |
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The 5% is only a starting point to get it to start up again after the reset, Just turn the screw out until it holds idle again and your done. |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 04:37 pm: |
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K, just finished 3rd heat cycle. Afv was 115 when I plugged everything in. After resetting afv I got the best idle at 6.7 tps during this heat cycle. It will probably require adjustment when I get to normal op temp for the first time but I wanted to adjust it now so that I don't have to add throttle during the heat cycles. It's great not having to rely on a dealer for this stuff any more! Btw, when I clear trouble codes is it normal for the historic list to not get cleared? |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 - 09:46 pm: |
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No/Sometimes but it should all be erased just do it again until both are clear. I found that sometimes i had to re-click the keys tab and try again. |
Kalali
| Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 07:34 pm: |
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PK, I have spent a lot of time with the ECMSPY and I can tell you, 1)The AFV of 115 is telling you that your fuel maps are 15% too low. Increase the front map by 15% and the rear map by 12%, 2) 6.7% is way too high. If your idle is "good" at 6.7% then you have not done the TPS reset correctly. To get a stable "warm" idle, you may end up holding the throttle open manually for a minute on cold starts. In general, TPS should be around 4.3%-5.1%. Mine is set at 4.7%. If you want, drop me a line and I will gladly walk you through the set-up. |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2009 - 12:19 am: |
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Mohsen - PM sent. I'm sure that the 115% AFV means that the engine was running lean before the valve seized, but since I just rebuilt the top end I'll wait until I spend a little time in closed loop and know where I stand. Ok - I know that the idle screw should be adjusted to 1050 RPM at normal operating temp, but if that adjustment results in the bike not idling properly when first started, should I change the cold idle correction percentages accordingly? Or just leave them alone and plan on manually opening the throttle slightly while the engine warms up? |
Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2009 - 08:11 am: |
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I found that holding the throttle for a few seconds to allow some heating of the metal seems to be enough, your afv 115 could be from an air leak which cylinder did the valve seize? front? the mixture correction is on the rear cylinder only ( 02 sensor ) and if the rear is ok and the front has an air leak then there is the possible cause for the problem. 115 can be caused by air leak or better breathing from the alterations good to see that your project is going nicely I am holding for return of my heads. |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2009 - 09:24 am: |
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Oldog has got a great point there... Any airleak will distort the fuel map readings. |
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