| Author | Message | ||
     Tweekin2 |
I have a question about the downward spiral that I am facing. I need new tires on my M2, dry rot cracks in the front require immediate attention. So since it will be at the dealer, I am thinking that I should add a wave rotor to the rear for better stopping. But then I need to add one to the front to balance the look out. Then probably wheel bearings since it's all torn off. Maybe new brake pads too. How about some new stainless lines as long as it's apart. Geez, I just put another 1k her at this point. I guess the question is are the wave rotors worth it? Anyone have real world experience with them? I know how the heat dissipation and brake fade benefits, but how do they feel. The rear brake has always been pretty bad IMO. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
A wave rotor to the rear "FOR BETTER STOPPING"??? DUDE...YOU CAN LOCK UP THE REAR AT ANY SPEED. So what do you need a wave rotor for? By the way Cyclegear has a killer deal on tires. front and rear together(package deal) Pirelli sport for under $200 w/ shipping | ||
| Jmkybf |
If you're worried about braking, I would change the stock pads first. I went with EBC HH compound and they offer impressive stopping power. I think I paid about $60 for new pads front and rear. | ||
| Tdman77 |
+2 changing the stock pads first b4 dropping big bucks on rotors. Why do you need new wheel bearings? Are the bad? There are guys here with over 100K miles on their stock bearings. Just make sure the axle nuts are not over tightened when they reinstall the wheels, that's the #1 cause of bearing failure. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Think thats's bad? Try bad isolators which led to: 1250 Kit XB heads Billet XB motor mount USD forks front wave rotor polished shift drum aftermarket lifters gobs of other shit | ||
| Jramsey |
"Try bad isolators which led to" I replaced the Iso's on both my tubers and it has only led to deciding which one that I'm going to ride on any given day, sometimes I ride them more than once each day.  | ||
| Tweekin2 |
Like Brin said, one thing leads to another. I have been having an ongoing battle with the rear brake never being able to lock up. I put on a new master cylinder and caliper, still slows the bike, but not lock up the tire. So maybe the Buell/HD dealer didn't adjust or bleed it properly? I am NO brake expert so I leave that up to more skilled people (dealer). Maybe that's what I need to do, educate myself on proper bleeding/adjustment first. The bearings aren't bad, but it is more of a (as long as it's apart) thought. Wave rotors also look so nice. | ||
| Jramsey |
Neither of mine will lock the rear wheel unless I take my weight of the seat and stand on the pedal. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
If your rotors are straight try other options first, such as... A local line/hose shop made a stainless rear line for me splicing in the stock fittings, cost was between $40 and $50, which is half of the retail line cost. It improved the feel but there just isn't a ton of power in the rear brake. The Lyndall(sp?) Gold pads I put on the front made a HUGE difference in performance and feel, when my rear pads wear out I'll try the same there. The rear brake on our bike is apparently like that on purpose. (I took a riding class when I still had the stock rear line on; they wanted me to lock it up and I had to stand on the pedal to make it happen). IF your bearings are bad you can find replacements on-hand (instead of 7-10 days from the dealer) at most any industrial bearing shop, they are fairly common. They will be half the cost as well. (Message edited by littlebuggles on May 06, 2009) | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I never touch the rear brake on my X1 unless I'm at a stop sign on an incline. Try a Blast some time.. touching the rear brake on that sucker is suicide! My '07 P3 locked it up VERY easily. littlebuggles.. did the M2 have a normal flexible rear brake line stock? I'd like to get stainless lines for the rear of my X1 but it uses a hard line to cross right to left under the battery going from the brake pedal to the master cylinder. I've never seen an aftermarket X1 specific rear line kit, and I'm guessing it's due to that section of hard line. (yeah I know I already said I don't touch the rear brake, but stainless braid is so pretty!) | ||
| Fasted |
if cash is no issue, replace everything that is replacable.....otherwise....... why do anything but rubber? stock brakes are more than adequate unless you are squidish. r&r the wheels yourself. pay the dealer for the labor you CAN'T do. your bike will eat quite enough of your time and money without you figuring out how to accelerate the process | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Pk, yes, had flexible line, which I took into the hose specialty shop and they built a stainless replacement. I put some black plastic heat shrink on the complete length because of the abrasiveness of the braid. You've checked American Sport Bike for a rear line then? I know he used to stock the M2 part for about $100. Eddie, stock pads may build up residue on the rotors (mine did) which squeals and needs frequent cleaning and caused the brake to throb, felt like a warped rotor. The Gold pads cleaned off the old residue and as I said previously have better performance and feel. Which is good on the track and street. I don't think having better brakes makes me a squid, I think it improves my ability to ride safely. | ||
| Fasted |
didn't mean to offend, as i also have the golds. i meant worrying about switching rotors, bolts, wheel bearings spacers, valve stems, and anything else that one could think of (when there is nothing wrong with the existing ones) is a huge expense. just didn't get the point of going down the path paved with c-notes unnecessarily. didn't sound like anything was really wrong except the rubber, hence my reply there are unlimited ways to sink money into our bikes. some have more return than others. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Got it, thanks for the clarification. | ||
| Eshardball |
Unless your rotor is shot, you will only need to upgrade the pad and change to a stainless steel rear line to give you all the stopping power on the rear wheel that you will ever be able to use. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Mine locked up pretty easy whenever I wanted... But I have a stainless line to put on during the rebuild and have the kits to rebuild both front and rear calipers. | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Rear brake ? Pretty much useless on a Buell ... at least on a tuber ... They really weren't meant to have gobs of stopping power... 70 % of your braking is coming from the front, if not more ... should be no reason really to need to lock up your rear brake - there is enough rear brake there to do what's needed. IMO - if the parts are still good that are on your bike why spend the extra money until necessary - also, about all of what you listed are fairly easy DIY jobs with basic tools. Only if you have the older style front rotor (which from your picture it appears you do) would I consider a new rotor ... but I would agree that the stock rotors with good pads (the double H's are good as are the golds) provide plenty of braking power, the money saved on rotors can go towards other goodies, like the SS brake lines (I do think those are better to have, and worth it). But at the end of the day, it's your bike and if you have the money to spend and want to ... (Message edited by tattoodnscrewd on May 07, 2009) | ||
| Limitedx1 |
i did a complete brake overhaul, front and rear waved rotors, rebuilt calipers and master cylinders, new fluid and an extensive bleed of all the old junk, new double h pads front and rear......stops like a champ front and back, rear locks up no problem now.....which led to extra plate kevlar clutch, rear iso's, new paint for intake, sub frame and battery cover, carbon tank fillers, new breather setup, primary cover gasket, hand levers..... | ||
| Tweekin2 |
Thank you everyone for talking me off the ledge. Tires it is. Learn a bit more about wrenching myself in the future. I have a center stand, so I should be able to tackle it with time and patience (and your help :-) I truly believe that the more you do yourself, the more it becomes "your" bike. But it all started with the thought of "as long as it's apart". I would rather spend the money on gas for the boat. It's getting in the 80's about every day in Florida. Thanks for all the good input everyone... Now for a really newbie question. Rear Isolators, look that the picture in my profile. Swingarm bolt is all the way to back of mounting hole. They need to be replaced right? Be gentle... |
