| Author | Message | ||
     Oldironsides |
Tonight I found a puddle of oil, looks to be gear oil about a half dollar piece size puddle. when I looked up under the bike it looked to be coming out of a vent tube. In between the muffler and the shock about half way back. Oh yeah its an 01 X1. might you guys have an idea. Cause I need to ride it and my SM hasn't showed up yet for me to reference. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Skntpig |
IIRC this is an indication of the seal between the motor and tranny going. I don't remember what it's called exactly. It pushes trans lube out the vent. Try searching for it on here. Could also be your shock. | ||
| Preybird1 |
That is the dreaded crank seal, If it goes out your engine oil will drain-push it's way into the tranny. Then the tranny overfills and pukes all over, This is not good check your engine oil. If it is low i would be wary of riding. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Check your engine oil, but also check your primary fluid. If the engine is low, there could be a number of causes...but if the primary is *rising*...not too many things can cause that. There's a seal on the crank between the crankcase and the primary case. If that seal goes, pressurized engine oil is pushed out of the engine into the non-pressurized primary. You'll start to notice hard shifting, hiding neutral, and other shift oddities if the fluid gets way out of whack. It's not too terribly hard to replace, just remember the stator nut is LEFT HAND THREAD. Ask me how I know that one. | ||
| Oldironsides |
How big of a deal is this to change. and it only pucked that one time. Is there anything else I ought to do while I'm there. Thanks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It will also drool a little if you overfill it. 2001 had the old (weaker) primary chain tensioner, right? I think it was late 2001 or early 2002 that they put on the new one with the thicker backplate. You should definitely swap that out while you are in there. The job takes some big breaker bars and some "really big" sockets, and you will have to get or fab some simple tools (locking bar and seating depth gauge), but the job isn't bad. Once you are that far in, you are only 4 bolts from removing the entire transmission cartridge... that might be worth doing for inspection... more for the 5th gear drive assembly that will remain captive in the case then for the transmission. Those needle bearings can break and rust, particularly if your belt tension has been something other then "scary loose". | ||
| Buellistic |
The proper way to check the oil tank level is with the engine at operating temperature, on the sidestand, and the engine running ... The AIR SPACE should be 1 to 1 1/2 inches ... If you have too much oil and remove the oil cap, it will overflow ... | ||
| Texastechx1 |
Ask me how I know that one. HAHA, I'm getting ready to do my crank seal, and I bet I would have forgotten that little piece of info! IIRC it is also possible for small amounts to come out when you push your bike REALLY hard... but its not that common. And IIRC the parts to do the job aren't to bad, the tool, spacer, NEW seal and primary gasket is all less than $100. Search the KV, you will find many discussions about this seal, including a few damn good write ups on how to replace it CORRECTLY! | ||
| Buellistic |
If you get oil out the TRANSMISSION vent tube the could be too much oil in it ... The proper way to check the transmission oil level is to have the bike as perfectly up right as possible ... Remove the clutch cover and verify the oil is just up to the bottom of the CLUTCH DIAPHRAGM(spring) ... If there is too much oil it is because of to reasons, been over filled or the CRANK SHAFT OIL SEAL is bad ... If your engine seems to be using a lot of oil, the crank shaft oil seal may be the problem by always having too much oil in the transmission ... (Message edited by buellistic on March 09, 2009) | ||
| Fasted |
low oil level in engine + high oil level in primary = bad crank seal. adjust both to specified levels. ride hard, go home,check levels if they have changed as indicated above,SEARCH & READ knowledge vault crankseal postings. BUY A SERVICE MANUAL. plan on 4 hours to do it the first time. upon reassembly, if you find the unopened loctite that was supposed to be applied to the stator and clutch hub nuts, you will be amazed how quickly the redo progresses. any alteration of consciousness during the operation greatly enhances the chances of getting to do it twice. damhik.........good luck | ||
| Texastechx1 |
^^^^^^ Agreed! | ||
| Oldironsides |
Thanks for all the great help the manual is in the mail. Its parked until the manual shows up and I know where all the levels and how to check them are. I also get to change the newly leaking front rocker box gasket. I love it I turn wrenches for a living And I get to do it in my free time. Ain't life grand. | ||
| Fasted |
 working on your cage is a pita, but....... wrenching your tuber is like strokin' your ***** (if you have a cat, that is). it will purr when you ride and want all of your attention...................may as well learn to enjoy it!!!! | ||
| Preybird1 |
I do agree with fixing your own bike is annoying if you wrench all day but these bikes are so easy to work on. I can do the front rocker box gasket in 40 minutes, Very easy job and make sure you buy the updated metal gasket. While you are in there do the xb rocker cover mod if you have the stuff to do it. |
