Author |
Message |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:00 am: |
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Ok, I have an idea, and might even have a way to make this happen. I was thinking, other than weight, what would be the negatives of having a Race Header Shoe (or several if it works), made that eliminated the "tabs" and was one solid piece between where the tabs were actually on the Buell made piece. Just a thought, let me know if you don't understand and I'll explain better, or try anyways. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:07 am: |
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All ready have one made of Stainless on my X1. |
Davefl
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:13 am: |
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My S3 used to eat "shoes".. It used to break the clamps so I started using the heavy clamps from McMaster Carr.. Then I started breaking the shoe in two leaving the clamp in place so I reinforced the bottom plate of the shoe.. Then I started breaking off the tabs.. I had a section of square 1" tube welded between the tabs and have had no more failures. |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:14 am: |
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Jramsey, Do you have any extras? I have a buddy who lives a couple hours away who I was going to have attempt to make one out of stainless... |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:42 am: |
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No extras but not very hard to make. My X1 has a stock header with a Willyco can and both ears on the J pipe had been repaired several times by the original owner. The Willyco J pipe is Stainless so I ground,sanded and polished the ear welds smooth. A short piece Stainless 1/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 inches long and a piece of 2-1/4 od x 1/8 wall tubing to split for the shoe. A little time on the mill and a few minutes Tig welding and a clamp like Davefl mentioned and your done. As I don't have an actual race exhaust to work with I wouldn't be able to guarantee the fit. |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:52 am: |
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Jramsey, I have two wileyco that the Jpipes are both busted on as well. On the actual muffler is shit, but the other one has only 500 miles on it, and the tabs are cracked. Hm..... |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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I did mine 2 years ago when I first got the bike. I believe a lot but not all exhaust mount cracking problems are caused by improper installation. Every part needs to be bind free and not stressed, no prying no tweaking no jacking to make it fit. |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:15 pm: |
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure that was the culprit. I kept trying to make it "look" straight, with the lines of the motor, but that's not how it's supposed to be. Actually busted off a stud in the head last season to. That came out thanks to Tim and his Jim's tool...whew. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 12:27 pm: |
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Mine runs parallel with the bottom of the motor with 1/8" clearance at the pri. drain plug. I would like to find a new core for mine, I got tired of repairing the old one and put a auto glasspack inside the can but it doesn't sound the same. |
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