Author |
Message |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 06:30 pm: |
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sounds like timing is off to me.... |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 09:55 pm: |
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You guys realize that this is a vacuum source for the carbon cannister to work and uncapped WILL be a vacuum leak. Put in new sparkplugs and try.(These FI Buells are hell on fouling plugs) Timing is only affected if you screwed with timing plate. TP setting on these Buells affects EVERYTHING. It is the reference point that all the FI works from so if it is not dead on nothing works as it should. The other biggie according to Al Lighton is the temp sensor. It does all kinds of stupid things when it goes. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 10:42 pm: |
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+1 on the temp sensor mine went and it did go all crazy! OK FMJ i will get it capped. |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:23 pm: |
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no carbon canister in this bike. i checked the timing its ok.did the tps and afv.the afv is 100 and after reset the tps it was set to 5.8 degrees.i ran out of new plugs so looks like i need to some tomorrow. on the temp sensor ,are you talking about the rear head sensor?i would think this thing should at least run at idle. do you guys have any preference on heat range of plugs or brand? |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 11:52 pm: |
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I use nkg iridium's they work the best i think, the superfine center make a nice big spark. I went with the recommended for my model, Since its fuel injected typically you should use a colder plug range! I have the plug number at work with my manual. Sorry! |
Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 01:01 pm: |
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Get some standard 10r12 plugs, the rear sensor is the engine temperature sensor checked so far. spark is present timing is set fuel pressure is 50 psi Battery voltage for starting at rest 12.4 or better ? Tps set idle adjusted to spec. AFV reset to 100 Start attempt in neutral? ( by pass the safety interlock ) When the battery is weak on my bike the start can be problematic, try jumping from a car. if you can. FMJ has hit the last possible point that I can think of, the temp sensor is skewed or damaged and not coding. |
Twowheeldream
| Posted on Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 05:10 pm: |
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Dont jump from a car while its running, too many amps available, can fry all kinds of stuff |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 12:21 am: |
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would there be a "check engine light" for a bad temp sensor? timing is good. 50# fuel. spark at plugs. new battery from h.d. tps reset. afv at 100. and yes it is in neutral. scanalizer checked spark,injectors,afv and tps. i have compression on the front cylinder when checking for the timing mark.
this is getting old fast, i hope this stupid thing is worth all this headache. |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 01:13 am: |
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i tried starter relay test. negative 12v=85 terminal positive 12v=86 terminal check continuity between 87 and 30 terminal. i showed zero continuity. so i checked the other relay it checked the same (bad)? is my book telling me right? will the bike turn the starter and light the plugs if both of these are checking bad? |
Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 11:52 am: |
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The engine temp sensor can be off or failed and not code, had the lead wire broken ( open circuit ) no CEL hook the scanalizer up and compare the ET to the air temp they should be close. I thought that the motor was turning over? and popping with wet plugs? There are 2 relays as you state, the starter control and the ignition power relay they are comon automotive relays (ford I think) 90 feista I think. one of the relays engages the contactor in the starter to operate it. yes the bike will be worth it take a big deep breath when the temptation to employ the flogometer is encountered .. (Message edited by oldog on February 26, 2009) |
Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 11:56 am: |
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just for grins, pull out the shop manual and go through the static timing exercise BTW Dream I used my running truck to light off my X1 rather than damage the battery and starter by killing a weak battery no issues. If you had some thing fry I would be inclined to believe that some thing else may have been involved.. |
Limitedx1
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 12:18 pm: |
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try putting the spark plug wire back on the plug! im sorry i had to try and cheer up after all that work. hey look at it this way, once you find the culprit you will know everything else is in order! |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 12:47 pm: |
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i will do the static timing exercise tonight after work. yes it is cranking and sparking. i am hoping on getting the scanalizer back here on saturday. |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 11:46 pm: |
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is there a way to check the static timing without the breakout box? |
Sleez
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 12:20 am: |
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you can back probe the connector to the cam position sensor, or the corresponding pins on the module. just stick in some straightened out paperclips or safety pins. i have some really needle point probes i use. check your manual, the 97 uses pins B and C all this assumes the 99 times similar to the 97/98 (Message edited by sleez on February 27, 2009) |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Thursday, March 05, 2009 - 12:51 pm: |
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the green turd still not starting. my buell guy is going to make a house call today at 5 pm. |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 05:33 pm: |
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well after having a couple people looking at the bike, they were all scratching their heads. so off to the engine builder to have him look at it. he said should be ready saturday. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 - 06:04 pm: |
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ouch. Sorry to hear that you aren't out there on it still. |
Thunderhead
| Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2009 - 03:31 pm: |
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got it back today, and it starts! |