| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
I recently purchased an '02 X1 w/ 6677 miles which doesn't run. PO stated that the front plug was found bent, and knows nothing more about the damage.   the before pic. Hopefully the end of this thread will have a similar picture of two operational X1's =]  The damage I found tonight. Exhaust valve spring, and intake pushrod - both from the front cylinder. The valve spring fell out when I pulled the lower rocker box off. I can see that the valve is bent by looking through the exhaust port in the head.   Thus concludes day 1. | ||
| Brinnutz |
That thing have an air shifter on it or what? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Took me a minute to see what you're talking about lol.. No I took the shifter off to get to the chin fairing and exhaust. In the last pic it's just slid onto the shaft so I could put it in gear, spin the rear tire and get the cylinders at TDC to take rocker boxes off. | ||
| Brinnutz |
oh last pic made wonder. looks good tho! | ||
| Capital_g |
Nice score! Are you keeping both bikes? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I don't plan on keeping both. If I can get the 2002 (black) running ill swap plastics and wheels then sell the orange one (2000) If not, then the 2002 will be a learning experience for me and ill sell parts. I had an interested buyer earlier this week but the guy wanted to take the 2002 motor and put it in a chopper. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Sure its a 2002? I thought that year had a black engine. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Oww That is some bad damage bent pushrod not good. You could have damage on the cam as well if not, The cam bushing cup may be damaged also, And the rocker arm may need to be looked at also, is there any stress cracking on the valve guide. I have an 01 x1 and the front exhaust valve broke at the collar where the locks clamp on the valve, It bent the valve up and cracked the valve guide in 4 pieces. I had the head at my friends shop and had him heat and press the guide out and install a new one and lap and seat the valve for me, Also installed 2 new valve guide seals with the new valve and locks. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/preybird1/Im age003.jpg | ||
| Texastechx1 |
i got an 02 x1 with a silver engine... maybe they're just rare? | ||
| Preybird1 |
On those days they just ran out of paint and you got the silver instead of the black, No JK I think it was an option from the factory, That engine color is a special order if i remember right Unless they just used the millennium cases. But i really cant say if thats what went on really? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Never heard of engine colors being year-specific. My 2000 has all black engine. The 2002 is silver w/ black heads. I thought maybe the silver engines were sold in bikes that came with factory pm wheels. | ||
| Mcdusa1 |
I have a 2002 silver engine black heads. I wish my engine was black. | ||
| Gowindward |
When shopping for a S3 this last summer, I noticed that you could tell an '02 from the earlier year bikes by the silver cases and black heads. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
I have a 2002 silver engine black heads. I wish my engine was black. same here man... same here. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I made some more progress tonight..   rear head  front head     rear piston  front piston  something doesn't look right..    this will make a great paperweight!  front cylinder wall   looks like the connecting rods are alright   quite a bit of shrapnel down there  At this point I'm deeper into the engine than I've ever been before, and sort of lost as to what the next step is. What type of other damage do I need to look for that could be caused by this type of failure? I also need to decide between buell parts, or upgrading everything that needs replaced anyway. I've always been curious about axtell 1250 cylinders and xb heads =] | ||
| Medic352 |
You can go to XB heads and rocker boxes if you want. Or, XB rockers to change the breathers. XB heads come bare, gotta' buy all the valve train separate. The 1250 kit is like 0.060 over or something close, awful expensive for no more power. Buy a new head, port them both, go with bigger cams if you want. The X-1 seems to be good for 90-100 HP already. You could split the cases to flush them, or just flush them. Take a close look at the oil pump. Let me know if you think you're getting in over your head, I'll throw you a life line. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Phil, if the cams in that X1 are still good, can I get them from ya on the cheapness, if you upgrade them with the rest of the motor??? PWEEEEEASE | ||
| Beachbuell |
You may need to worry about what went through the motor. If you've got pieces of metal in the crank/cases then you can bet that it was circulated throughout the motor and oil tank. By the looks of the head and piston damage the bike was run for some time with more damage being done. It wasn't shut down and tore apart as soon as the damage was starting. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
I've seen that kind of damage before. Someone started and reved that motor cold and a tight valve guide siezed enough to break off the valve and ingest it, must have been a heluva nasty noise! These motors need to oil up before you run-em up in RPM. Seen Viragos do it too. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Wilson, today's first goal is finding something to hold all my used oil & fluids. I would have pulled the cam cover off last night but ran out of containers. You'll be at the top of the list if I have any cams available. The problem I thought of last night is that I have zero experience with ECMSpy. If I repair this bike with aftermarket parts I'll need to retune it. Even though upgrading sounds fun, I'd hate to put hundreds of dollars into parts, then watch it grenage all over again because I don't know how to properly tune. | ||
| Ratbuell |
today's first goal is finding something to hold all my used oil & fluids If you were closer to Maryland, I'd have you bring the stuff over. I've got an old deuce-and-a-half that runs on UMO (used motor oil). And kerosene. And citronella (keeps the bugs away in the summer). Oh, and I think it'll run on diesel, too  +1 on tearing it down all the way and making sure the oil pump is good. If you've got a good machine shop nearby, have the cases flushed and totally cleaned before you reassemble. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Oh TOTAL REBUILD THATS REALLY BAD! | ||
| Easy_rider |
That's painful to look at! Good Luck! | ||
| Texastechx1 |
Holy crap... looks like what happened to my 02 X1. I had the rear intake valve spring retainer shatter while doing some late night wheelies. It shot the intake valve into the cylinder on the down stroke, pushed the valve back THROUGH the head on the up stoke and about 2 strokes later, shrapnel from the rear cylinder traveled trough the intake and got sucked into the front cylinder... needless to say I got an entire top end BRAND NEW for FREE!!!  gotta love the warranty. But enough about my BS... more about yours! (Message edited by texastechx1 on January 17, 2009) | ||
| Medic352 |
You can wash the cases yourself, go to the discount tool store, buy some biodegrade-able parts washing solvent, you dilute it with water. As for securing you parts, got to the local Lowe's/Home Depot ans secure a masonry tub, they are cheap($4-8 ea.) get two or three. They are like 2'x3' or so. Use one to wash part the other to store them. Spring for some rubber gloves to protect your hands, even if you use solvent, diesel, or gas to wash parts. You can go with bigger cams, you will see and feel more power without confusing the ECM by having the heads ported, which in effect makes the cams seem bigger*(or the more more efficient, because it will move more air!). If it was carbed, by some bigger compression ratio pistons(11.1), and N-6 or N-8 cams, or the HD Screamin' Eagle Pro's(hell, I'd sell them to you). **The cam/pinion side of the cases with come free, the sprocket side is pressed on, keep up with the spacer on the sprocket side(goes between the bearings). Make sure you either use new oil lines, or flush the old ones. ***Before you go snatching them all off there, change them one at a time!*** Trust me. 2002 model, might have pressed together crank/flywheels. I have never rebuilt a set of those, built tons of older ones with nuts on the crank pins. Trued them as well(its made of 5 parts). So is the overall plan to fix this one to keep and sell the other one? What kind of budget are you on, how big a hurry, I was talking to a guy I drag race with yesterday, he has some high speed low drag..someone important ported heads. He has some 13.1 pistons and big, (HUGE) solid cams too....? | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
I would check the timing marks to make sure the crank pins didn't shift. If all checks good, flush it(oil tank & lines too), replace/rebuild oil pump. Ebay cylinder & head and run it!!! You are looking at a few hundred bucks compared to a few thousand IMO. | ||
| Medic352 |
Motivational Photos:   | ||
| Preybird1 |
Thanks a lot medic now i want to ride  I got snow. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Didn't make quite as much progress today as I wanted to.   Looks like I need to get one of those locking tools before I go any deeper.  The oil was very low, and what came out was some of the thickest, worst looking stuff I've ever seen.  Medic - the plan is to keep the 2002. Once both are running I'll mix & match cosmetic parts to my liking, and sell the 2000. I'd like to spend no more than $2000 on parts, but that may change. I checked prices on a new cylinder, piston, and head today and was pleasantly surprised that stock Buell parts won't be very expensive. I'm in no big rush either. I've got a running bike to keep me entertained. I'll shoot you a PM. "Let me know if you think you're getting in over your head, I'll throw you a life line."  (Message edited by pkforbes87 on January 18, 2009) | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Out of curiosity.. does anyone know if there is a certain year/model of XB heads that would work best on this bike? The heads I pulled off have the engine temp sensor in the center of the rear head, not next to the plug on the front head like the 2000 X1. |
