| Author | Message | ||
     Firebolt020283 |
I was riding today and me and the guys I was with stopped so that the people behind us could catch up to go another leg of the ride well as we was sitting there I looked at my bike and noticed that my tranny breather was puking a lot. I was riding rather hard (like between 85 and 100) if that makes a difference. Does any one have an Idea as to why? | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I've never seen a drop of anything come from mine after 25k miles. I believe there is a seal in the primary that if bad, will allow engine oil to leak into the primary. Check your oil level. I'm guessing you'll find it low. Someone else who is more mechanical than me can tell you which seal it is that blows, and how to fix it. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
crank seal is going out and riding hard pushes more engine oil into the primary and makes it puke out the breather (Just like Pkforbes87 said) the fix is really simple actually, it just sounds like its more involved. search the forum for crank seal replacement... there is ALOT of info. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&as_q=crank+seal +replacement&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_f iletype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=www.badweatherbikers.c om&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&a s_nhi=&safe=images | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
well I am just having a rotten day I went to take the derby cover off to check things out and 3 of the four torx screws holding the derby cover on are wollered out so now I have to figure out how to get them things off. | ||
| Guell |
i dremmeled a slot into them and used a flat head screw driver to get mine out | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
thats what I thought of doing only problem is I do not own a drill or a dremel. (Message edited by firebolt020283 on January 18, 2009) | ||
| Eshardball |
Hammer the next size up Torx into the fastener and pop them loose with a breaker bar | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
Eshardball thanks that got one of them the other two not so much. So now I just have to figure out how to get the other 2 out. | ||
| Sloppy |
Make sure you're using the CORRECT Torx size -- most people only have a T25 in their tool box, but the correct size for the cover is a T27! Otherwise you WILL strip them if you use a T25. As for puking oil, it is normal to do this if you've been riding short distances and then ride it hard. Before you jump into the primary to inspect for a blown crank seal, first check for a dramatic change in the oil level. If you have a blown seal, you'll have a drop in one tank and a rise in the other. Also blown crank seals are not all that common. Yes, they happen, but first do some basic troubleshooting to confirm you have a problem! | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
well there is not a change in the oil level in the engine oil but what i was wanting to do is check the level in the primary level. Yes i do know that the torx screws are t27 not 25 how ever they were messed up already when i got the bike. | ||
| Oldog |
Bolt how many miles on that bike? the originals get leaky around 25~30 K IIRC Changing is not a big deal. clutch tool/ lock bar and the mother of all torque wrenches. check the FSM One of the nuts is left hand. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
its got like 18k on it. | ||
| Dreadnaught1 |
I had a nightmare with my derby bolts also. Used the correct T27 and one stripped. Tried a Dremel and a slotted regular size screwdriver. Then slotted it bigger, tried making a phillips NO good. Ended up using a chisel and a hammer and making a primitive hammer effect having the small chisel angled 45 degrees left and smacking it a few times after using CRC 556 to loosen it up after 2 minutes it was spinning freely. You will ruin your derby cover but I started with my project with that intent and she did not want to let go of the stock one.. I WON... Those torx are bad Mojo. I replaced with Stainless steel allens from harley.. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
yea I am going to attack them again tomorrow. I am also going to change them for allen screws. What was Harley thinking when they decided to put torx screws there? | ||
| Dreadnaught1 |
No, It was Buell thinking??? Harley has allen bolts in that position then and now.. I hate torx with a passion. I have replaced all I could find with Stainless Allens. The torx have been a pain in the A$$. | ||
| Phelan |
My '03 Sportster has tors heads on the derby. My '95 S2 has allens... When I build another motor it will have allens as well. I hate torx heads.. | ||
| Sloppy |
I have no idea why people have problems with their Torx screws. I run in all weather, year round, 32K miles and never ran into a problem... in fact I like how fast I can get my them off with my powered driver. Torx screws are used in manufacturing as a balance between Philips and Socket head. The speed of a Philips, but with greater torque capacity. Speaking of which, you are using a torque wrench to tighten these bolts, right? | ||
| Dreadnaught1 |
That is another thing, I suspect people do not use torque wrenches. I use them religiously. I am third owner on this bike so I do not know the history and the abuse. I suspect it had 7000 hard miles from the things I found.. | ||
| Reepicheep |
LOL. No school like the old school... You are probably stripping bolts on the derby cover because you are completely removing some, the cover is cocking and binding the others, and then you strip the already fragile head. Get them out however you can, and if you carefully just barely drill off the heads the cover will come off and you will have enough post to get at with vice grips, and they will probably spin right out easy. The puking tranny is a crank vent. Take Henriks advice, not mine  If you seat it too deep, you will be doing the job again in 4000 miles (DAMHIK). Fun memories! | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
I use an impact driver when possible. (I think thats the right name???) You guys know.. the thingy you twist and hit with a hammer at the same time. It breaks that aluminum/steel bond and any loctite. | ||
| Hootowl |
If all else fails, drill the heads off. Is the oil milky like it has water in it? | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
no the engine oil looks like fresh engine oil as it has less than 500 miles on it. looks like I will be buying a drill this week. | ||
| Hootowl |
I meant the tranny oil. | ||
| Ratbuell |
He probably doesn't know yet since he can't get the derby cover off...  | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
this is true. | ||
| Hootowl |
The oil that blew out all over your bike, was it milky or clean? | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
it looked kinda greenish but deffinatly not milky like car with a blown head gasket | ||
| Buellfighter |
Fiebolt, I threw away the torx and replaced with allens and no probs since (7 years). I had a problem with mine puking after high speed runs and rerouted my vent tube from running low along the engine to running up high along the battery. No probs since. Running it low allows oil to blow up the tube for a short distance and if not routed up high it will run over the tube and out. Try running it up high if you haven't already. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
it was ran up and back and i had a filter on it but it was by the licence plate. that was why I went home early from my ride was cuz it was leaking on my tire | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: It is now time to talk about metal screws(or bolts for that matter) screwing into aluninium ... Due to the metal difference once in the do not want to back out ... "SO", what is a good tip to get them out ??? WELL, a good rap on the screw(bolt) head helps break things loose which requires the using a punch sometimes or what ever is used to remove screw ... ie: it is just as important the way you remove the PRIMARY COVER as is how you install it ... To remove it the correct way is to loosen from the center of the PRIMARY COVER in a spiral pattern working out ward to the front and rear of the cover(the reverse when installing) at a 1/4 turn per allen screw until all are loose ... If for some reason one or more do not want to loosen easily, a rap may be required ... THIS KEEPS FROM DISTORTING THE COVER WHEN REMOVING IT !!!This applies to any cover, ie: cam gear cover and rocker arm covers ... FOR COURSE, THIS IS NOT IN THE "FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL" and "i" wonder WHY ??? Before you correctly install the PRIMARY COVER you should clean the thread holes and the allen screw threads ... The GASKET surfaces should also be cleaned ... The ALLEN CREWS should have anti-size applied to the threads("i" also put a little on the allen screw heads where they tighten into/on to the cover) ... Make yourself some long studs that will screw into the allen screw holes to hold the GASKET IN PLACE for ease of assembly ... Use piece of string through the PRIMARY CHAIN inspection hole in the proper place through a chain link to lift the CHAIN above the primary adjuster SHOE(whither you loosen it or not, never loosed mine as my primary chain is never adjusted too tight) to be able to push the cover on ... Now put all the ALLEN SCREWS in finger tight ... 1) In the first spiral tightening, tighten the allen screws to 2 ft.lbs.("i" converted the inch pound SPEC's. to FOOT POUNDS) ... 2) Now the second spiral tightening to 4 ft.lbs. ... 3) Now the third spiral tightening to 6 ft.lbs. ... For PROPERLY adjusting the PRIMARY CHAIN check post, ADJUSTMENTS: Drive Belt and Primary Chain ... If "i" missed anything, "PLEASE" let me know and "i" will up-date or correct same !!! In BUELLing LaFayette Ljenne73c@verizon.net | ||
| Buellistic |
PUKING: On the later model BUELLs after 1997 the TRANSMISSION breather where mounted in the engine case was raised a little higher to help with this ... "BUT", if you over fill the transmission or the motor sprocket seal goes bad this puking can and will happen ... To PROPERLY CHECK(or fill)the oil(fluid) level), with the bike sitting perfectly up-right, INSPECTION COVER,clutch removed, the oil(fluid) should just touch the bottom of the clutch SPRING,diaphragm ... One QT. is too much and 28 OZ. maybe not enough or still too much ... (Message edited by buellistic on January 20, 2009) | ||
| Hippyjoe |
I'm with Buellistic, if your engine oil is up then it was probably just a case of riding hard with the primary overfull. Most people automatically dump the whole quart in when changing out the fluid, probably even Harley dealers, or whoever changed your fluid before. You are on the right track pulling the clutch cover. Get the fluid level where it belongs and ride it some more. If your sprocket shaft seal pukes you'll see your engine oil go down pretty quick. One QT. is too much and 32 OZ. maybe not enough or still too much ... ... except that 32 oz = 1 qt. Just dump out any excess fluid once you get the cover off. If you change it altogether then 28 oz is the approximate amount... I'd just dump the excess first and ride it to make sure you found the problem before doing a full change. | ||
| Buellistic |
Hippyjoe: "THANKS" for the proof read, corrected same ... | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
thanks guys my wife is buying me a drill tonight as an early birthday present so I should have those stuck screws off and will be able to see the level in there. I am hoping it is like ya'll say and it is just over filled because I am not looking forward to doing that seal job, mostly cuz my wife will be mad that I have to spend money one special tools and stuff like that. also if it means anything Last night in an emergency situation I had to use my bike to go to work and it did not have this problem. |
