Author |
Message |
Mhartiga
| Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2009 - 09:33 pm: |
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I have 2000 Buell X1. I snapped three belts before I converted to a chain kit. Now I have now snapped two exhausts bolts one on each cylinder. The Force exhaust system was installed by a HD dealer in NJ so I am reasonably sure it was installed correctly. I am beginning to wonder if the motor may be twisting under load. Has anyone hade similar problems? Can anyone recommend a god Buell mechanic (Not a HD mechanic who can work on Buells) in northern NJ? I want to get it set up right this year. I do not want to have to call my jap Bike friend who owns the trailer to come pick me up this year. |
Oldog
| Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2009 - 09:41 pm: |
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M: the belt & stud failure sure sounds like its twisting or the two failures are un related. the exhaust is tied to the mount block at the muffler and the engine at the front and on the heads, check the y mount bushings. 1.st idea rear isolators, 2.dn idea front isolator 3.rd idea tie bar mounts 4.th idea engine case to swing arm mount I would try to localize / and repair the issue my self. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2009 - 09:46 pm: |
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"recommend a god Buell mechanic" As the saying go's H-D "techs" teaching Buell owners to be mechanics for the last 25 years. Snapping 3 belts in a row is caused by their being adjusted to tight, 2" free play minimum. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, January 10, 2009 - 10:30 pm: |
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Jramsy is very very correct about the DRIVE BELT Play, as the FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS have been wrong from day 1 on the TUBE FRAME BUELLs ... The EXHAUST SYSTEM floats with the engine !!! The reason the exhaust port head studs break is because of improper installation ... Have 106,386.9 miles as of the last ride ... Have NEVER broken a ex. stud !!! Get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your year/model and learn to be your own MECHANIC ... If any of your ISOLATORS go bad your bike will VIBRATE like a SPORTSTER before they went to the BUELL isolator system ... The primary chains are adjusted too tight by the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL also ... If you want any of this HOW TO "INFO", e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net) and you will get it e-mailed to you ... (Message edited by buellistic on January 10, 2009) |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 12:56 am: |
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I keep enough slack in my belt so that with lots of pressure, it will just barely touch the bottom of the swingarm. Broke one at around 20k miles, and the replacement looks great with 5k on it. |
Jstfrfun
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 06:04 pm: |
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+1 on the belt tension, scary loose is the best. Chain drive is nasty,dirty and noisy. The best thing we got from H-D was belt drive. |
Lemonchili_x1
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 06:11 pm: |
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I run my belt a little loose and have never had a problem so far in 30,000km's - something like "with lots of pressure, it will just barely touch the bottom of the swingarm". While I have my bike apart I was going to give it a full service and check primary tension, plus replace the exhaust studs (once I get the broken one removed ). I have the factory service manual but any tips on either item that's not in the manual? Primary chain looser than manual? cheers, chili |
Ducxl
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 06:18 pm: |
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I agree on the belt issue.I've always used the silly Buell belt tension gage.With 10 pounds of force applied the belt just about contacts the swingarm.."Silly loose" is right. I once became acquainted with a real heavy guy who had the same issue breaking belts. When he sat on the bike the belt was incredibly taught. I've had my exhaust off several times and have not had any stud issues so i cannot speak to that one. Listen to that Buellistic guy.I've been listening to him a great deal lately..Thanks |
Dave_02_1200
| Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 07:56 pm: |
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+1 on that. I have adjusted my belts as per Lafayette's instructions and have had no problems whatsoever. Like he says, the manual is wrong. Do it his way. You will have no further problems with your belt. Dave |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2009 - 12:17 pm: |
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Thanks Jramsey for pointing out the belt thing, I have done that for soooo long I just ASSUMED that he knew that and another issue was the problem I will wander off now.. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2009 - 12:25 pm: |
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If a new exhaust system was installed you should have had them replace the exhaust studs as well when the new stuff went on, Exhaust studs stretch over time and become very brittle after stretching to the max. These are very cheap to replace like $13.00 i have been running the belt to manual spec and have only 8k miles, I am going to loosen it as everyone else here states its the correct tightness |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2009 - 03:06 pm: |
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If you "TORQUE" the Head Exhaust Studs correctly they do not STRETCH, remember these studs go into a aluminum alloy head ... The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL says 6-8 ft. lbs. The nuts will stay tight at 6 ft. lbs. so there is no reason to torque any tighter ... If you use EXHAUST PORT GASKET PN 65324-83A(they are no good) you will have trouble as you must use PN 17048-98 !!! CORRECTLY HOW TOO: 1) Stud, nut, and bolt threads must have anti-size compound applied to the THREADS other wise you will not get the correct TORQUE !!! 2) Install header, all nuts evenly finger tight ... 3) Install muffler starting at the front of muffler working to the rear of muffler finger tight ... 4a) Torque exhaust stud nuts from rear to front to 2 ft. lbs. ... 4b) Torque exhaust stud nuts from rear to front to 4 ft. lbs. ... 4c) Torque exhaust stud nuts from rear to front to 6 ft. lbs. ... 5) Torque clamp header/muffler to 50 ft. lbs. ... 6) Torque muffler front support nut/bolt to 22 ft.lbs. ... 7)Torque muffler rear support nuts/bolts to 22 ft.lbs. ... Have found the rear of the muffler will get loose and cause everything forward to come loose ... "SO" as in PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE every 5K check to make sure the rear muffler support nuts/bolts are still tight ... Even a shake test on the rear of the muffler is a good thing to do ... Have a 1997(12 years old) S3T(original owner) with 106,551.95 miles as of the last ride ... Have never broken a exhaust header stud which proves this works for me ... As for the DRIVE BELT my OEM Belt lasted 61K miles ... The replacement belt has been adjusted correctly form day one so "i" know that more mileage is attainable ... The Dealer likes you when you drop a $175.00(plus tax'es, state likes you too) per belt !!! Lets not forget the axle(front and rear) nuts because if you over TORQUE(tighten) them the soft wheel bearing spacers get compressed and the wheel bearings will self destruct ... This is very, very important on the BLAST !!! |
Preybird1
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2009 - 04:15 pm: |
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I broke 1 front exhaust header stud, But it was due to bad parts on mufflers rear mounting, So i just made a 1/2" metal muffler bracket to support the rear weight of the muffler, it has been good so far! |
Lemonchili_x1
| Posted on Monday, January 12, 2009 - 07:25 pm: |
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Thanks Buellistic . My broken exhaust stud should be out and fixed by end of the week so hopefully I'll have the exhaust back on this weekend. |
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