| Author | Message | ||
     Grovskopa |
OK so I fixed the leaking oil pump and 5 min later a sound appears that is quite worrying.. It sounds like something is touching that should not be.. Kinda like if you are wearing rain trousers, you know, when legs touch there is a sound... Hard to explain. Kinda like rubber against rubber, though slightly more metallic. It is sounding all the time, though less when in neutral. The speed of it is not as high as the coils I think. I tried recording but compared to the exhaust sound it is so low that it is not really audible on recording. It is very apparent when riding though, especially during acceleration. When trying to locate sound I got to front cylinder and/or what is below it (transmission?) I am sorry for the silly comparisons and bad English, I am really not skilled in motor works. | ||
| Mm128 |
Did you check the slack in the primary chain??? It may need to be readjusted.. Matt. | ||
| Grovskopa |
I did not! I don't even know where that is! | ||
| Buellistic |
While you had the OIL PUMP out did you look up into the oil pump hole to check the oil pump drive gear ??? | ||
| Grovskopa |
I never had it out! I had it in its place while fixing leak. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Those two guesses would be my two also. The primary chain would be more to the left of the bike (as you're sitting on it) and it makes a metallic slapping sound. When my oil pump drive gear went out it sounded more like a wailing, think banshee shriek coming from the right/front cylinder area. *these are just my sounds as I interpret them, yours may sound like a witch. | ||
| Buellistic |
Have you done the clutch "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT" yet ??? When the SPRING PLATE(aka Grenade Plate) PN 37977-90 can make noise as it is coming apart ... You will experience clutch adjustment problems as in not being able to keep clutch adjusted ... Replace SPRING PLATE with two STEEL PLATES PN 37913-90 and one FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 ... Primary Chain should be adjusted to 3/4 inch play on chain tight spot ... Trans. oil level should be just touching CLUTCH SPRING,diaphragm PN 36782-91 with bike perfectly up right and on level ground ... You can use a long screw driver(handle to ear and tip touching where you think the noise is coming from)as a listening device ... | ||
| Grovskopa |
But it makes no sense that it would be the primary chain since noone was in there changing it? Or? It might be oil pump drive gear I guess but oil pump is like 5 hours old!! | ||
| Bad_karma |
I assume the noise changes speed with the engine? Does it change if you pull the clutch in? Any fault codes or engine light? Joe | ||
| Buellistic |
Exactly what did you do to stop the oil leak and exactly where was it ??? | ||
| Grovskopa |
Bad karma: It does change speed with engine. I think it gets a bit lower if clutch pulled in but otherwise it stays the same. No light.. Dunno about codes. Buellistic: it was a faulty hose connection (from pump to oil filter) | ||
| Buellistic |
Which end of the oil pump to oil filter of HOSE,oil pump PN 62631-91 to filter did you tighten ??? This part when correctly installed the oil filter end first and tightened then to the oil pump and tightened making sure you do not put a twist kink in the hose ... If kinked it will stop/reduse the oil(pressue) to the oiling system ... The first noise that shows up is the lifters get noisey(not enough oil for them to keep pumped up) ... Next catastrophic engine failure | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you pull off the belt and put it in neutral, and turn the output sprocket, does it feel a little grabby / crunchy? And do you run your belt scary loose or as per the manual? My M2 had some sounds like that, it was a trashed set of roller bearings in the 5th gear drive assembly. Lots of other things it could be though, just add this to the list to think about. Changing the oil pump should have nothing to do with that though. | ||
| Grovskopa |
Buellistic: I thought the exact same thing at first- too little oil in engine. I did not damage oil hoses in any way though. The one that was damaged was the one that rear shock gas canister was hanging on. It has no kink/tear/whatever. Strange thing is though that when oil pump was leaking (and surely got less oil to engine) it did not sound. Makes no sense to me? Anyways. It sure sounds like it could be the lifters.. I am getting very worried now. Not engine failure AGAIN just a few weeks after that MAJOR engine repair that killed my whole budget.. Reepicheep: Sorry I really don't know what you mean. I am a total newbie. Belt is very tight though, and sound is not coming from that part of bike. Gearbox I doubt as well as that was just repaired. | ||
| Grovskopa |
Hmmm another thought... IF it was that engine got too little oil and lifters were malfunctioning, wouldn't the oil lamp be lit? It was lit (or blinking) when I had the leak.. Also.. If it was that, why would it sound more when the engine was in gear and driving than if it was in neutral and throttle was just pulled? I think (OK hope) that it is the primary chain. Whatever it is I won't ride a metre without fixing it first, really really can't afford another engine breakdown-. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The 5th gear drive assembly is what your front belt sprocket is attached to. It sits in the transmission case, and one of your two transmission shafts ride inside it. If you run your belt too tight, those bearings can be damaged. On a tuber, you want your belt loose. But start with the primary chain. Do you have the new updated tensioner part? It could be as simple as a broken tensioner backplate (hard to detect without pulling the primary cover, but the original part should be replaced even if it has not broken (yet)). | ||
| Grovskopa |
OK will tear primary cover off and check! I don't have an updated part AFAIK. And my belt is very tight yes... I should loose it up I guess... Goodie, then I get shorter wheelbase  | ||
| Buellistic |
if you have a small flash light and small mirror, just remove the small inspection cover and look inside ... You can feel the chain and see the oil ... | ||
| Reepicheep |
True, but that won't tell him if the backplate of his tensioner is split. And even if it's not, he should probably just upgrade to the $15 new part anyway. Having a new metal gasket in there as well (if he does not already) won't hurt either. |
