| Author | Message | ||
     Mtndude |
Just picked up an all stock 2001 M2 with 1000 mi. Looks, starts and runs wonderfully. I have put 500 mi on this week scooting through the nearby San Bernardino mtn roads where I live and am having a ball. My last bike was a 2000 Blast that I put about 5000 mi on over 3 years. Increased power and handling of this machine is heaven. The guy I bought it from had the suspension cranked tight, but after I reset it to my weight (175) it made all the difference. Here are my questions: Sounds like from this site that synthetic oil is the way to go in both crankcase and gearbox. Can you recommend some for me? Also, The stock breadbox is cumbersome, but I don't need more performance at this point , nor do I want to invest a ton of cash in more intake tech than I need + pipe + rejet. It would mostly be for astetics. I was wondering where alternate airbox solution starts and if its worth it without going the whole shebang. I may just leave it- I'm actually quite happy with the performance. Thanks for all of you who help with this site. I have learned a ton and enjoyed the community. | ||
| Djkaplan |
If you really hate the way the breadbox looks and you don't want to spend a lot of cash for a Forcewinder or a CF hamcan, you can discard the backing plate and cover and modify the Helmholz elbow to accept a filter like the Forcewinder uses. You'll have to block the resonating holes - I've seen it done with what looked like large plastic caps for beverage bottles, and of course, you'll need the K&N type filter. The look is a bit industrial, but it doesn't look that bad. As far as oil, just use a quality 20w50 in the engine and primary/transmission (or use Formula+ in the primary/transmission). I use 15w50 Mobil car oil in my engine and Formula+ in the primary. This means I can get engine oil at any autoparts store and in most grocery and convenience stores. Don't use non-approved oil in the primary and transmission... meaning don't use GL-5 gear oil. (Message edited by djkaplan on October 01, 2008) | ||
| Buellistic |
Have a 105,362.9 mile as of the last ride . First 60K miles ran H-D 20W50 in engine and transmission . 60k miles to present have run SYN3 20W50 in both engine and transmission . The most important things that you can do to make your ride a LASTING TROUBLE FREE RIDE: H-D SYN3 20W50 oil( chgn. eng. oil every 3K miles and Trans. every 5K mile), 1.75 oz. STP gas treatment in gas for every gallon every 5K miles, adj. your primary chain to 3/4 inch on the tight spot, adj. your DRIVE BELT correctly to have 2 inch's on belt tight spot, do clutch PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT(remove the SPRING PLATE also known as "THE GRENADE PLATE" replacing with two steel and one fiber plate), an get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your year/model to learn to do your own work ... Still running my OEM AIR BOX(PRODUCT IMPROVED inside air box)and it makes a good slider for the right side ... Exhaust system: Put an out let on the right side end of you OEM Muffler(doe the same thing as the BIG $$$.$$ mufflers) ... | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
"(or use Formula+ in the primary/transmission)." I strongly recommend the Formula+ I don't know about other synthetic oils, but I used Royal Purple 20w50 in my pri/trans and it made shifting feel really sloppy. Less than 500 miles down the road and I replaced it with Formula+ .. perfect so far! | ||
| Mtndude |
Thanks for all of your input. Just what I needed. One other thing- the shifter on this beast takes considerable effort. Shifting with tennis shoes=severe toe pain. Is this normal? Any mods that would allow the linkage to have greater mechanical advantage? | ||
| Fasted |
nature's way of reminding you that TENNIS SHOES are improper riding gear. decent riding boots make shifting comfortable. if you think your toes hurt shifting, wait and see how much a crash will pain your feet... | ||
| Djkaplan |
Adjust the clutch properly... with only 1000 miles, there's still break-in wear to consider. Make sure the primary chain is adjusted to spec too. | ||
| Mtndude |
I knew that was coming. I usually wear boots and good gear. I will check the primary chain. Thanks! | ||
| Bad_karma |
John I like Mobile 1 Vtwin 20/50 in the motor and Formula + in the primary. Enjoy your ride and get a service manual. Welcome to BadWeb and Buells. The interactive motorcycle. Joe | ||
| Buell_bert |
I guess I don't have much problem with the shifting while wearing tennies. I use 1 quart 20-50 oil and proper clutch and cable adjustment. | ||
| Mtndude |
The stock "Mudflap"/license plate holder on my 2001 M2 is ugly. The turn signals are attached to this thing- how do you guys recommend ditching the mudflap and keeping the rest? | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
American Sport Bike sells a license plate relocator or you can do like what was done on my bike and hack it off and then when i got it me and my dad fabed a bracket for the license plate and blinkers out of random things. |
