| Author | Message | ||
     Phelan |
oh sweet. I'll bookmark it then and holler at you when I'm ready to order  . | ||
| Xldevil |
You´re welcome! | ||
| Ebutch |
Phelan: don,t know when I,ll get at it,but will ,let you know and post. Ralph: I,d like To see whats on that paper Stenzel Release please if posible?Edward | ||
| Xldevil |
I,d like To see whats on that paper Stenzel Release Are you talking about the installation instruction sheet shown on that photo?  If it is so and you want me to translate it word by word ,I got to fetch it from my garage. This could take a while. If you would be satisfied with a summary of it,you can have it instantly. (Message edited by Xldevil on September 23, 2008) | ||
| Ebutch |
Summary thanks | ||
| Eshardball |
At the risk of sounding stupid, What the hell does it do? I don't see what the back would attach to. | ||
| Xldevil |
Here we go. Let me say sorry in advance for misspelling or strange phrasing. I´m no native speaker Secure the bike on a stand. Put a jack under the engine to support it.You have to make sure that the engine will not drop down, once the front engine mount bolt is unscrewed. Loose the right nut of the middle tiebar,frameside.(9/16") Remove the left nut of middle tiebar,bracketside.(9/16") Remove the big nut of the front engine mount.(3/4") Discard the D-washer.You won´t reuse it. Regard the big washer between the bracket and the front isolator!Don´t loose it. Install the Stenzel bar,the sink down and forward. The little hole in the bar and the hole of the middle engine mount have to correspond. Probably you got to loosen allen screws of the middle engine mount bracket,between the heads. Reinstall the front engine mount bolt and the nut.(hand-screwed) Remember no D-washer anymore! Measure the clearance between the Stenzel bar and middle engine mount bracket.In most cases it´s about 5mm. Adjust the distance,using washers. Reuse the genuine washer on top of the middle tiebar,bracketside.Discard the aluminum spacer. Tighten all fastenings hand-screwed. Now torque all fasteners ,using to following sequence: 1) Tiebar right(frame)side to 45Nm. 2) Tiebar left(bracket)side to 45Nm. 3) Front engine mount nut and bolt to 145Nm. In case you have unfastened the two allen head screws of the middle engine mount bracket,bolt them to 45Nm. Remove the jack. It´s essential that the Stenzel bar is stress free mounted! It´s better to loose all fasteners again and to check it out once more! Examine all fasteners after 200Km. | ||
| Ebutch |
Nice bowsers Eric!As I see it tork from eng rips iso from front.Bar keeps eng from rocking back, riping iso.Bar from iso to top tie bar. | ||
| Xldevil |
At the risk of sounding stupid, What the hell does it do? I don't see what the back would attach to. The Stenzel releases the front engine mount by shifting a part of the stress that comes from the momentum of the engine´s vertical movement to the middle engine bracket. It also shortens that movement. The result: no more braking bolts,head-threads,mounts or isolators. It´s attached to almost all tubers in Germany.None of them bikes has experienced any of that mentioned and well known defects. No adverse effects! Ralph | ||
| Gowindward |
Babelfish version of web page.  http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done &tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-res&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.st enzel-parts.de%2F14375%2F14321.html&lp=de_en&btnTr Url=Translate | ||
| Gowindward |
That's a real clever idea. It's simple! It eliminates one degree of motion freedom for the isolator. (Forward/backward) That forward/backward motion is what must be causing the isolators to fail and the Germans figured that out. From the shape of the isolator it looks like it's designed for up and down motion, which it will still be free to do. Although I would be a little concerned about the cyclic moment loads that the Stenzel bar is putting into the mounting point on the frame. It could cause fatigue cracking where it is mounted at the rear. I think an even better solution would be to have another tie rod with a hime joint at the rear where it attached to the frame. That way no cyclic moment loads are put on that mounting location. Anyone see other problems with tying down the engines motion in this way? | ||
| Ebutch |
Naustin :Think this could have cured your S3T!!!! | ||
| Brinnutz |
I just email them on the Stenzel thingy and the Race Header flange. Hopefully they are able to ship here and prices are reasonable. | ||
| Xldevil |
AFAIK,the race header flange is no longer produced and it doesn´t fit in combination with a Wilbers/HyperPro linkage shock. It needs the stock front shock mount.That´s why I´m not using that flange holder. Ralph | ||
| Xldevil |
Loren,as I said it before. There are no adverse affects and this thing is approved over years by hundreds of tubers,over hundreds of thousands miles. Ralph | ||
| Brinnutz |
Well, I need it.I have broken 4 race header shoes, and cracked my race header, sheared of an exhaust stud, and cracked the elbow on my WileyCo that was new 500 miles ago. I've determined it to be from said isolator problems. Can't wait to hear back. | ||
| Jramsey |
You sir have a alignment/bind issue with the J pipe and muffler. | ||
| Eshardball |
I'd love to see a shop drawing on one. It can't be that difficult to make. Is it stainless? Any one have feedback about vibration transmitted through the frame.One of the advantages of rubber mounting the engine is vibration dampening. I am using the Drag Specialties front mount and it is noticably stiffer than the "Barry unit that it replaced. My tuber doesn't really smooth out until 2900 RPMs. | ||
| Eshardball |
XL Devil, Thank you for the explanation. It was hard to visualize from the pic. | ||
| Jramsey |
Below 3,000 both my tubers shake like a one legged washing machine during the spin cycle. I've always considered it normal. | ||
| Phelan |
ditto. The shake is just to scare off inexperience riders so that the experienced ones cab hop on and lean around like the dickens!  | ||
| Xldevil |
Is it stainless No.it´s made of aluminum. And again,it does not add any vibes. Mine shakes only at idle,but maybe I´m desensitized by my rigid mount Sportster,going 200 Km/h.  Ralph} | ||
| Brettx1 |
Ralph, I sent you a PM. I'm wanting to make my own stenzel bar thingy. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Shit, I posted from Brett's computer...Ralph, it should have been a PM from me. | ||
| Buellistic |
X1devil: That is the way a street sportster should look !!! | ||
| Naustin |
Naustin :Think this could have cured your S3T!!!! Ebutch: Maybe, but I tell you, compared to the S3T, my new ST1300 is like riding around on the Starship Enterprise! "Plot a course -- Warp 9 -- ENGAGE!"  | ||
| Brettx1 |
It kinda looks like the Enterprise.  | ||
| Gowindward |
Ralph, Does this photo show the correct rear mounting location for the Stenzel bar?  | ||
| Brinnutz |
Yes it does. Their website shows it there.  | ||
| Brinnutz |
Loren, Did you make that? If so, make me one please. I'll buy beer? |
