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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through October 02, 2008 » Ignition Switch Replacement - Suggestions Please « Previous Next »

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Sloppy
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm on my second OEM ignition switch -- they seem to last about 4 years, so I'd like to try a different brand that can last a longer period of time. I'm a year round rider so I don't know if mine are failing because of moisture (but I do use WD-40 sparingly if the switch gets wet).

Let me know if you've had similar issues or what you've had success with. Thanks.
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Kalali
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry I can't help you with your question but this explains why a lot of bikes have their ignition switch on the side below the seat. I am also not sure if WD-40 is a good choice for this purpose since it does have some "cleaning" properties which may damage the wiring. I am sure you have seen what it does to rusted components...dissolves the rust...Just my opinion.
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Preybird1
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My Friend has moved his to inside of rear head scoop and a toggle switch on the ignition hole on the instrument\dash. He just reaches inside and puts key in and hits the switch. I dont know if another brand would work i cant say it wont as this only a 3 wire set up and is very simple. do you have any keys on the key ring to the bike, I have heard of them wearing out due to excessive weight on the key ring pulling down, will ruin the tumbler!
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Silverbuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sloppy,

Do you have more then 1 key on your key ring? When you combine the weight of additional keys with the ever present vibration it can cause the switch to fail internally.

SilverBuell
98 S3T 40,000 miles and still smiling....
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Scott_in_nh
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I drilled out the rivets holding the back in place, cleaned (sanded) the contacts, lubricated the inside and then reassembled and riveted it back together.

When you get it apart you will see why it fails - it is a piece of junk!

It still got very hot so I ran a relay to handle the load and now the switch is just a switch with no load. I mounted it right under the dash.

This has worked well now for over a year and was a cheap and easy fix that retains the original key, look and operation.
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Sloppy
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I only have the one key and a plastic key fob so I don't think the mass is the issue.

Interesting thought on disassembling and rewire through a relay. The switch seems to fail on an internal short to ground. As you mentioned, it does show signs of overheating.

Maybe I'll check with a marine shop and see if they have a keyed ignition switch.
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Buellisticx1
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

take a peek at American Sport Bike, AL has a Ignition Switch cheaper (only $23.95)than OEM switch and work fine. it will bolt right in, it is almost the the same exact size and shape, just doesn't have the same connector on the end. But you can take the connector of the old one and put it on the end of the new one and You'd need to splice the connector onto it, as it just has three ring terminals.. it is possible to be placed in the place of origin and without modifications.

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/16033.html

Regards.



(Message edited by buellisticx1 on September 24, 2008)
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Kyrocket
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm still debating on doing this.





Attaches directly to the starter. I've considered putting in a three way toggle under the seat somewhere and putting in a clock in place of the key switch. I've got plenty of time to think about it while I wait on some 1250 cylinders.
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Bandm
Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I filed the little tab off the barrel of the key so you can remove it after turning the ignition on.
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Road_thing
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2008 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kyrocket:

You can get the same effect by drilling a hole in the end cover of your solenoid and putting a nail on your keychain to stick in and actuate it.

Or so I've heard...

rt
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2008 - 12:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Custom Chrome / drag specialties

new swithch 50$ not 150$
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Fullauto
Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2008 - 06:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've had one of Al's American Sport Bike ignition switches for over a year and it works fine. For $23.95 or so it's a bargain. I was quoted AUS$230.00 and a five week wait here in Australia by the local thieves....oops, I mean dealers. Pah!
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Sloppy
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just wanted to keep everyone in the "knowledge loop", the stock ignition switch had a burnt wire in it. When I replaced this I found that the fuel pump runs much better and quieter.

So if your fuel pump sounds noisy then that could be your first indication of a bad ignition switch. I also had an odd voltage code error in the ECM which may have been from the same cause.
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