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Preybird1
| Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 03:30 pm: |
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Well guys i have put in a new o2 sensor, rear head temp sensor reset tps and afv seems like this is more of a problem when its been heated up after a good ride, Any help will do. I talked to al again @ asb and he is not sure what to do either, I have just bought all the intake seals for the intake job. Im going to do next to see if it the seals, I tried the squirt water on seals trick that factory manual says to do and got no results idle didnt change at all. so now im stumped it runs rough at idle and lots of vibration. I checked plugs they are good, next i check the timing then what anyone have any ideas of what i should go through or check next HELP!! |
Jos51700
| Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 04:33 pm: |
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Err, uh, ehm, oh, uhhhhhh, How about some diagnosing, as opposed to shotgunning it with parts. What is your fuel pressure? Have you REPLACED your fuel filter? REPLACE your plugs. Plugs are cheap, don't you be. What is your AFV? What color are your spark plugs after extended operation in the "trouble spot"? Is your fuel tank vent venting? Have you tested/replaced your plug wires? |
Preybird1
| Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 05:53 pm: |
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No fuel pressure test yet, new plugs wires, And im not throwing parts at it im the fourth owner and they did no maintenance at all, And im very particular about my bikes, i have ecm spy and have no codes, My afv is 99-100 ive checked 3 times still the same! I got a new filter gonna try it tonight, ive been checking and replacing most of the trouble parts. Ecm said short in head temp sensor, So i changed it i pulled the plugs light soot no brown or oily color, haven't checked fuel tank vent valve good idea. But i got no time to work on it i work 120 hrs every 2 weeks. |
Mmmi_grad
| Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 08:53 pm: |
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Sputtering or blubbering that is is usually a rich condition. Since your plugs are good and in ecm spy you see good feedback on the TPS moving the throttle the i would lean towards ignition, something loose or even a bad ecm. a bad head temp sensor can mess with a rider bad and maybe thats why your the fourth owner Actually your describing the symtom of a very bad head temp sensor. One can foul plugs and strand you. (Message edited by mmmi_grad on September 15, 2008) |
Standingdeadwood
| Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 08:54 pm: |
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I just changed my fuel filter at 30,000 miles. I can notice a big difference at idle. Much smoother. It all started with surging at highway speeds and ended with an O2 sensor fault. I too started buying parts before I had any fault codes. I put them on for preventive maintenance since they were already bought. When I put the new fuel filter on, I noticed the rear plug wire which is wire tied to the fuel line was worn through the insulation. I need to replace the wires now. Be observant, you may discover other problems before you get stranded somewhere. Good luck with the filter. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 10:45 am: |
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well I got new fuel lines and filter installed after the line burst while riding and soaked me and the bike with gas, And i noticed that while i had intake opened up that the rubber seal at back of air box was not installed correctly so i fixed that, Didn't get tank vent checked yet but i did get tube connected to it check its free flowing, the breather lines were loose at intake, Sparks are in new condition as they have less than 200 miles on em i pulled them out they look ok so ill clean em up and put em back in. havent checked the afv value yet to see if there is a mismatch but all seems ok. |
Blks1l
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 01:15 pm: |
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These sound like some of the problems I fought on my 00S3. I ended up converting it to a carb, and it hasn't missed a beat since. Dean |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 01:49 pm: |
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Man this is pissing me off! this bike ran totally fine until the muffler broke, Then the 02 sensor was left loose and Wham now i cant get it to run like it did 2 weeks ago. It was running very well then the carbon fiber muffler blew up at only 750 miles. harley warranty it got me credit as its no longer available and i got this SUPERCRAPP, man i hate that pipe its got no low end torque anymore only high speed do you feel the power, This pipe for sure sux. I am not trying to put much money into this as im going to install all the race mods in 2 months. I bought this bike to kick serious ass and it must be top notch if i take to the track at larry h miller speedway here in utah.... I will not look a fool in public !!!!!! (Message edited by preybird1 on September 16, 2008) |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 02:53 pm: |
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the super crap? is adjustable for back pressure if your all top end remove some disks and close it up. Im with Jos and grad here some testing is in order, pump pressure, and injector operation. has the timing been checked? you are not alone I have a drive line snatch that has to be investigated and hopefuly solved this year. |
Spiderman
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 02:55 pm: |
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have the intake seals ever been replaced? |
Preybird1
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 05:04 pm: |
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No spidy intake is next im waiting for seals to arrive im doing that this sunday, I still dont like the supertrapp exhaust and i know it is adj. But i got no time for this petty stuff damn work. hey dog thanks for the help im in the process of testing got the air filter out looks ok but i started looking closer its a factory filter i wonder if its the original??? Well i changed it out. Now on the fuel injector test, and pump test whats the best approach, I checked with ecm spy and it say injectors active and i can hear a mild clicking as it is tested, is this what im supposed to do or is there a better way to test these. fuel pump test for like 10-15 seconds and i can hear it working. But this problem feels like fuel delivery problem when riding but who knows. I have never owned a fuel injected motorcycle well at least i got a line on cheap tools now. I need a pressure tester for fuel test? SOOO THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO GUYS ILL KEEP PLUGGING. AT IT SAFE RIDING FOR ALL!! |
Mmmi_grad
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 06:48 pm: |
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The fuel injector test tests the function of them. If they paqssed then yeah thats it. There is a coil around them that moves the poppet and thats what is being tested. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 - 10:25 pm: |
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Fuel pressure is the BIG #1 on ANY EFI machine. Injectors can't inject properly if pressure is low (OR zero). One thing I dislike about the DDFI is that the fuel filter is downstream of the pressure test port, thus eliminating a verifiable test of fuel filter condition. (The test port is near where the fuel line runs into the fuel tank) If you know any guys at your local American car dealership, the fuel pressure test fittings are usually the same. EFI pressure test kits may be "rentable" from your local Autozone. So, the AFV is near 100, after a nice long stretch on the highway, right? Not just boppin' 'round the 'hood, as that won't allow the AFV to adapt. But it idles poorly? I would let it idle for a good 3-4 minutes, and then get a spray bottle of windex. Spray ONE good hit on the front header, right near the head, and observe. Then do the rear. Does the windex vaporize immediately? Does it bubble on the pipe, and sizzle off? Does the pipe get wet, and then slowly dry off? The important part: Does the other "windex on the pipe" do the same thing as the first one? If it cooks off immediately, then that cylinder is doing well. If it sizzles, and little balls of windex "dance" before evaporating, it's acceptable. If it just makes the header wet, that's a problem. Obviously, if one cooks, and the other stays wet, the wet one is the problem cylinder, and you can isolate the issue to items common to that cylinder (Spark, injector, compression, etc). If they're both damp, then it's a common-to-both issue (Intake leak, coil, timing/plate, fuel pressure, air filter restriction, etc). If they're both hot at idle, and it runs out poorly, it's probably a tuning issue (timing, fuel pressure, lean spot on fuel map due to mods, etc.) You can do this immediately after a ride, too. Just be quick about it, and spray 4 sprays per cylinder. |
Texastechx1
| Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 01:17 am: |
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Was running good until exhaust starting coming apart? HMMMMM. I would check to make sure the O2 you put in is getting a propper ground. My 02 X1 had that problem when I bought it. you may want to check charging/battery, if its not getting the juice, it ain't gonna run right! |
Id073897
| Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 01:39 am: |
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Fuel pressure is the BIG #1 on ANY EFI machine. Injectors can't inject properly if pressure is low (OR zero). One thing I dislike about the DDFI is that One thing I like with the DDFI is that it will give you some hints when fuel pressure would be low. The most obvious would be a rising AFV as low fuel pressure applies in calibration mode also, affects EGO correction and therefore AFV. Regards, Gunter |
Preybird1
| Posted on Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 10:14 am: |
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Thanks jos51700 you gave me some really good information thanks for taking the time to wright it all up for me, I thank you very much. Now if my seals will arrive i can get them done . And thank for the tip id073897 nice to know! thanks all. as always safe riding |
Preybird1
| Posted on Friday, September 19, 2008 - 07:16 pm: |
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Ok guy got her all fixed up i went through whole bike and i mean the whole bike and guess what it was.....It was the ecm. apparently when the o2 sensor was left loose it caused a short which burnt out the input side of the o2 sensor input on the ecm. so at high speed it would lose signal. after i put in new intake seals that took 4.5 hours to completeand borrowed ecm! Now this bike is awsome again!!! I almost forgot how much fun this bike is when its is working well!! (Message edited by preybird1 on September 20, 2008) |
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