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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through September 20, 2008 » Broken mounting bolt and head. « Previous Next »

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Fullauto
Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 07:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've just posted in the KV. With a NRHS billet engine mount fitted last year, I've just broken the left front engine mounting bolt and taken the boss out of the head on the right hand side. Strip down tomorrow and pics to follow.
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the front motor mount is not assembled correctly(sequence) to the head/front isolator and then torqued correctly either or both bolts(motor mount to head) will break !!!
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Fullauto
Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Done as per the instructions provided. Read up on the KV. Didn't help.
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Mick
Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 02:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not having much luck are ya Fullauto
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Fullauto
Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd rather be fixing this than owning a Honda...............

And that's the truth.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BUELLers:

This is the way "i" do it and it works for me ...

Car stands under the foot pegs and a small hydraulic jack under the front of the engine to hold front of engine up for taking off and assembling front motor mount parts ...

Put anti-size on all threads so you will get the proper torque(any where metal to metal rubs)

Isolator bolt/nuts, Bolt/nut isolator/motor mount, and motor mount to head bolts all finger tight(snug) ...

Then remove the hydraulic jack and let the motor mount/isolator support the engine ...

Start TORQUING with the MOTOR MOUNT HEAD bolts(73-78 ft. lbs.) "FIRST" to 78 ft. lbs. in steps of 26 ft. lbs. both sides, then 52 ft. lbs. both sides, and then 78 ft. lbs. both sides ...

Then the isolator/motor mount bolt to 100 ft. lbs.(100-110 ft. lbs.) ...

Then tighten the two isolator/frame nuts/bolts(could not find TORQUE SPEC.'s for these) TIGHT ...

If "i" have to replace any hardware nuts/bolts, grade 8 is the replacement "i" use ...

If one side breaks the other one will have been stressed too much so "i" replce the unbroken one ...

If "i" just remove both motor mount to head bolts, "i" just reuse them ...

(Message edited by buellistic on September 15, 2008)

(Message edited by buellistic on September 15, 2008)
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Fullauto
Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Buellistic. I see a couple of differences to the method I used but I'll do it your way this time around. I'm thinking that replacing the two mounting bolts into the head once a year or so might be cheap insurance. It would be easier than replacing broken bits.
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