| Author | Message | ||
     Milesvdustin |
Well, the day has come to do my fluid change. I am going to just put syn3 in the primary. My question is, do I need to remove my v&h muffler to do this? If so, how do I get it off? Do you take the bolts off the bracket or take the bolts off the top of the muffler? Plus, how do I know that ive got the tension and all that set right on the system? I wrapped my header, and put it all back together and Have not had it break in about 1500 miles. Thanks for all the help, you really helped with the gas cap! | ||
| Mbsween |
Miles, You'll need to drop the muffler, then you have access to the drain plug. In my case I pull the bolt that holds the muffler to the bracket, but I've got a White Bros E-series. I've used a Wileyco which mounted to the stock Z bracket. I still found it easier to remove the muffler from the bracket instead of the bracket and muffler from the bike. Matt | ||
| Preybird1 |
Man you need a factory manual, If you dont know get a friend who does! | ||
| Milesvdustin |
Yeah, I am used to working on helicopters, and I am a CDI so I don't use the books anymore. I just pray I get it all back together without any leftovers! I talked to harley, and they said I need another new shock on it, some shock eye recall? I'll try to take some pictures of my progress, as I FINALLY have the internet! Thanks! | ||
| Buellistic |
Going to a H-D Dealer is like going to a doctor, get a second opinion ... Have a Dealer run your VIN Number to check if any and all recalls have been done ... There was a recall on the rear shock so if you need a shock DO NOT LET A DEALER SELL YOU A SHOCK UNTIL YOU FIND OUT ... The way you check the oil level in your transmission is to set your bike up right on level ground, remove the INSPECTION COVER,clutch and make sure the oil comes up to the bottom edge of the SPRING,diaphragm ... You need to get a Factory Service Manual and Parts Book for you year and model ... (Message edited by buellistic on September 13, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"If so, how do I get it off?" You are in for an adventure, my friend. There are two bolts in the rear hanger that need to be removed. The bolts fasten to a dogbone retainer underneath the welded on bracket at the rear of the muffler. Getting the serrated head fasteners back in is going to be a bitch... but once you get practice, it won't be so much of an ordeal. | ||
| Buellistic |
Wrap tin foil around the muffler so you do not get oil on it ... There is room to get the transmission drain plug out,"BUT" getting it back in takes a little practice and time ... "i" put a dent in the muffler where the drain plug drops down for more finger room ... | ||
| Milesvdustin |
So I can just drop the primary oil and not worry about the muffler? HD said the shock is a recall of some sort, so it will be free for me. I found a bolt on the garage floor, it looks like an isolator bolt for the rear, but as far as I can tell all the bolts and stuff are in place on the bike. I rode it before I saw this mystery bolt, and it rode great. I'll go take a picture of it. | ||
| Milesvdustin |
Here is a picture of the bolt, I am not sure it is even from this bike!   | ||
| Joesbuell |
I've had every nut and bolt off my Buell and none looked like that! Sure it's not off your car? | ||
| Buellistic |
On my 1997 S3T that is a PN 3457Y(1997 S3 Parts Book)SCREW ... 1/2 inch allen(5/8"-18NF) ... Later on it was changed to a TORX head bolt which made it hard to find a TORX tool that fit to remove it ... | ||
| Milesvdustin |
Ok, so what the heck does it go to? Both my isolator bolts and everything are there. My brother has an xb and it was also parked there. The car is a volkswagen and it does not get special garage privilege! | ||
| Bikerjim99 |
You can suction the oil out of the sump by removing the clutch cover. Use a turkey baster, large syringe, etc. You can remove virtually all of the oil this way, refill so the oil level is just touching the clutch plates while the bike is level, a bit less than a quart. Good luck! | ||
| Tdman77 |
I have that same nut on my 99 X1. It is the rear shock mount bolt. There are two, one on the front and one on the back. | ||
| Standingdeadwood |
I use Biker Jim's method of a suction gun. I put the used primary oil back into a old quart oil bottle to make sure I've gotten enough oil out of the primary. If you check the level before you start sucking it out, you'll know if you should end up with a more or less than a full quart of old oil. It takes a quart to fill the primary. I change the primary fluid after an engine oil change so I have an empty oil bottle handy. | ||
| Milesvdustin |
OK thanks everyone! I am headed out to do it right now. | ||
| Milesvdustin |
I did my change, the primary plug had a TON of metal on it, and the oil was kinda silvery. I put syn-3 in it, and I will change it again in 500 miles to see what happens. I took the muffler off, it was a lot easier than I had expected, once I realized I had to take the elbow off too, and the can wasn't coming off without it. I used Royal Purple 20-50 in the motor, it took an even two quarts with the harley filter. | ||
| Kalali |
Did you use the Royal Purple 20-50 sold in automotive parts stores or you found a "special" motorcycle application? I use a lower weight in my cars and they seem to like it a lot. | ||
| Milesvdustin |
I used the regular 20w-50 motor oil. My transmission shifts a million times better with the oil change, neutral is just a tap away when I want it! | ||
| Milesvdustin |
any other ideas for that bolt? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That bolt looks like one of the two that hold the rear shock on. Of course, if you were missing one of those, the bike would be dragging! | ||
| Milesvdustin |
Well, I guess I am in the clear then! | ||
| Preybird1 |
I had a similar problem where upper from fender fell out and got stuck in between the swing arm and stopped all suspension movement, It was a little freaky when i hit the bumps and it didnt absorb the shock just about threw me off the bike! | ||
| Mwellm |
Never had to take my exhaust off to change it...V&H....super easy. | ||
| Milesvdustin |
It only took 5 minutes to remove the exhaust, no big deal. Plus, I was able to clean up the muffler alot better that way! | ||
| Kalali |
The V&H does provide a little more space between the bolt and the exhaust but you must have rigged something in order to drain the oil without getting it all over the exhaust. A half funnel made out of alum foil would do the trick. | ||
| Milesvdustin |
I am pretty sure that Buellistic was saying he put a strategically placed dent in his muffler to make more room to take the plug off. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Still running "PRODUCT IMPROVED" OEM muffler ... Put a just large enough dent under drain plug to get drain plug back in ... | ||
| Milesvdustin |
See, I told you! Thanks for the tip! |
