| Author | Message | ||
     Buell82 |
I have a '97 S3 where I thought to believe that my bike wanted to "creep" forward when I was stopped at a light. So naturally I thought the clutch just needed adjusted. So I picked up the rear end of my bike and I now have adjusted the cable as far out as it will go and I have no difference. With the bike running, wheel in air, clutch level pulled in, and bike in gear the rear wheel spins. I know the adjustment screw inside my clutch basket is set correct because I checked that when I changed my primary oil recently, and I have I replaced my clutch about 1 1/2 years ago. I am kind of stuck here because I don’t know what else I can adjust/ check. When riding the bike and shifting from neutral into gear it does give me a good "clunk" noise, but there is no grinding and there is no problems changing into gears other gears while riding. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike | ||
| Jstfrfun |
I think I'd check to see what kind of oil was running through my clutch. I love the Amsoil 10\40 M\C specific, smooooth. | ||
| Buellistic |
Buell82: "i" also have a 97S3(T) ... Remember these are wet clutches and they do drag a little and they clunk when put into first which is worse when cold ... But how much depends on how correct you got the clutch adjustment ... If you have trouble finding neutral, that is an indication the clutch is adjusted incorrectly ... If you have the primary chain too tight it affects the clutch adjustment ... The Factory Service Manual adjustment is as good as anyone can tell you, "BUT" there is the feel you develop from adjusting at the throw out bearing(it does basically the same thing as the car throw out bearing) to the clutch cable adjustment ... | ||
| Beachbuell |
Normal! | ||
| Buell82 |
Maybe I should start my adjustments all over again and begin from the clutch adjustment inside the primary and work my way outside to the cable adjustment. Now that I think back to how I had my bike adjusted before, I did have trouble shifting into neutral if I was at a stand still. (If I reved the engine it usually helped) The thing that I find difficult now, is that I have no feel for how much adjustment I should make. I just follow the manual as close as possible, and if I need to make any further adjustments then I am just guessing. I do have an aftermarket Barnett clutch w/ the original spring plate if that makes any difference? Thanks, Mike | ||
| Sloppy |
Just follow the directions in the Factory Service Manual. Make sure you adjust BOTH clearances as per the manual -- the one on the primary AND the one at the lever. What you are describing in the original email is normal and occurs with all wet clutch bikes. | ||
| Spiderman |
LMAO it is just the bike's natural tendancy. see there is a shaft that rides on the inside of the main gear, the one the rear srocket is attached to. Inside that shaft is connected to the clutch hub and even with the hub disengadged it still spins transfrering some motion to the rear wheel via bearing play. If you were to grab the wheel it would stop. Hell it even does this in neutral. |
