| Author | Message | ||
     Wwillco |
Recently I saw a post that listed out all the mods that should be done to an '00 M2- now I can't find the dang post. Was wondering if someone would post that stuff back up- I want to verify all is good and roadworthy on the bike before I start riding regularly again. Thanks- Will | ||
| Bernd |
I second that. If there is a list of "must do" mods I'd like to see it as well. | ||
| 00cyclone |
+1 | ||
| Torquemonster |
Are you talking about safety recalls and basic mechanical upgrades or performance mods? As for safety- I do know for sure that there was a recall on the shock. If you dont have a black canister accompanying (a fluid reservoir, IIRC) your shock then you have the old / possibly faulty one. Get that fixed for sure...M2 riders were not meant to be pogo'd off the bike at speed. The oil pump drive gear is supposedly prone to failure early on (but mine's still good, knock on wood). American Sport Bike sells the bronze drive gear that you should replace it with. Heard it was a pretty easy job, too. The front exhaust mount should be updated with the new "Y" mount available from American Sport Bike as well. Some folks have had no problems with the old stocker, but more have experienced failures, I believe. I also heard that some of bikes came lean from the factory. It may be heresay, but a check / tune on the carb cant hurt. Sorry if I missed anything (im sure theres at least one or two more things) Al and the American Sport Bike crew are very knowledgeable and should be able to outfit you with everything you need to get it right. Just dont make em work to gather the info and part numbers for you, then go and order them from someone else.(not assuming that you would...Im just sayin') American Sport Bike are BWB sponsors and IMHO do the best job at servicing Buellers needs. Performance mods depend totally upon what you want the bike to do. Good luck! I grew up on KMCAS, but never had the pleasure of riding there. ...I often wonder what a hoot it would be to run an M2 on the road to Hana... (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on August 24, 2008) | ||
| Guell |
primary gaskets are prone to leak if it hasnt been updated the primary shoe needs to be the updated one rocker gaskets if they are still the paper ones | ||
| Redhatbuell |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/64196.html?1078720741 Might not be the thread you were talking about, but Reepicheep's post midway down the page is what got me started on my '02 Ma Deuce. The Knowledge Vault will have the carb tweaks. The rest in the way of mods are entirely up to you. +1 on Al at American Sport Bike. The man is a saint and a source for all things good. Needless to say that is where a lot of the money I'm making here in the Sandbox will be going when I get back.  Pete (Message edited by redhatbuell on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Buellistic |
There is always talk about "MODS", "BUT" nobody ever mentions anything about where you should set the timing mark ... And the factory setting is not it !!! | ||
| Torquemonster |
I mustve missed that one. Where should it be set then? | ||
| Wwillco |
Torque- I was talking about the recalls and basic upgrades, not performance mods. What you pasted up there was just what I needed to see. Never got a chance to hit the road to Hana on my M2, but I did rent a softail over there and use that for the trip. Absolutely amazing, and glad it was a softail, the road still sucks. (Message edited by wwillco on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Torquemonster |
Glad I could help and that Guell picked up the slack. I had totally forgotten about the paper gaskets, eventhough I replaced mine with the rubber ones. I forgot about the quality (or lack thereof) on the road to Hana. All I could think about were the curves. Ill bet a TT could make short work of it. Now get to work and enjoy that bike. Safely! (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on August 26, 2008) (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on August 26, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
The only thing I'd add is updating (or making sure it got updated) the primary tensioner shoe. I think most of the 2000 models still had the old shoe with the lighter gauge steel backing that is prone to cracking. It would be a good idea to inspect the oil-pump drive gear visually for uneven wear. If you see any on the helical drive gear, it should be replaced. My stock one has been fine, though (at about 45,000 miles - the last time I checked it). | ||
| Buellistic |
The reason the shoes were cracking(metal support) was the primary chain were being adjusted too tight ... If you remove you primary cover and find the plastic shoe has deep groves in it, this tells you the chain has or is being tightened too tight ... This shoe had been in service in SPORTSTER Primaries from 1991 ... Because it was showing up bad in BUELLs the FIX was to make it stronger and keep on adjusting the primary too tight ??? 3/4 inch play(COLD)on the tight spot !!! Drive Belt is another HORROR story !!! (Message edited by buellistic on August 26, 2008) | ||
| Jramsey |
The thickness of the base of the early shoe measures .105 thick. The late/upgraded primary shoe base measures a full .250- 1/4" thick. When and if you replace it after you screw it in the primary case tap it towards the case with a small drift a hammer so that shoe doesn't dance around. I am not going to argue with Buellistic but I adjust my primaries hot at 1/4'- 3/8 inch because the bikes are never ridden cold. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'm not going to argue either. More than a few parts that weren't problems on Sporsters have been problems on Buell/XL engines. When I replaced my primary shoe, it wasn't cracked and I haven't had uneven wear on my oil pump drive gear, but these items have been problems on more than a few Buells. The drive gear failure was an issue for racers in the old AMA 883 spec classes, so it makes sense that some Buells would have the same problem too. I adjust my primary chain free play to 1/2" cold... any looser and it starts slapping the cases. It hasn't really needed much adjusting these last few years. | ||
| Buellistic |
My purpose here is not to up-set or argue with anyone ... The INFO that "i" try to pass on is over 50 years old and still good(primary chain) ... Oil pump drive gear, if it is related to racing and retro fits to your engine, be safe and put it in ... | ||
| Randymoser |
Here's a list I got off the Web somewhere. I DID NOT create this and would love to give credit to the person that did, but I can't recall where I found it. Randy *** M2 survival guide... Not all applicable to all years, but a good starting list. Easy enough to do over time. All well covered by this board, just search the knowledge vault. 1) Updated front exhaust mount. Was goodwill, probably not any more, I paid for mine. 2) Front and rear new metal rocker box gasket. 3) Shock (goodwill upgrade). 4) Speedo sensor voltage regulator / updated part. Ignore it until it blows, make sure you get the regulated replacement part. 5) Rejet carb. Add supertrapp IDS / Buell Race IDS. 6) Around 10k to 15k miles, drop the oil pump and look up at pinion drive gear and see if wear is excessive. 7) Put mobil 1 gear oil in the tranny, huge improvement in shifting. 8) Hacksaw + rear plate holder. 9) Yodude flytrap is nice. 10) Forcewinder intake is nice, just tee breathers and route them around the front of the engine and down by the shock, where it just drips (with our without a filter, your choice). 11) Larger oil filter is nice (Ford FL1A), but make sure it is tied on somehow or it can spin off. There is an intermediate size as well, also a ford part (used by my 96 ford windstar V6), that might be better. That full Fl1A gets dinged from that front motor mount. 12) Full synthetic (Mobil 1 15-50 or any full syn 20w50) will run noticably cooler. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"7) Put mobil 1 gear oil in the tranny, huge improvement in shifting." It's probably not a good idea to recommend GL-5 gear oil in an area where it isn't approved for use. I don't use it anymore after the controversy (neither fully proved or disproved) surrounding its possible contribution to premature stator failure. My stator failed at 25,000 miles, btw. I used Mobil 1 90w75 GL-5 gear oil almost exclusively up to that point... now I use only oil approved by the factory in the primary (20w50 synthetic motor oil is approved for use in HD and Buell primaries). This doesn't prove anything, of course, but GL-5 gear oil still isn't approved for use in the primary. | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, this is the way "i" see the OIL DIFFERENCES of "OPINIONS" ... Would you want the TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT to get into you engine proper if the motor sprocket oil seal went bad and they do ??? That is why "i" use SYN3 20W-50 in both my engine and transission ... "NOW" if "i" was in the RACY mood the lube of chose would be MERCON "V" !!! | ||
| Phelan |
Necesary mods: Works or Penske shock Racetech fork springs in inverted X1 forks bore triple trees to accept X1 forks Carbon fibre X1 front fender American Sport Bike C/F rear fender tach kit Airtech GP fairing and bodywork S&S cases shaved and balance S&S crank Baker 6 speed tranny Red shift 643 cams Axtell 88" jugs with CP 30* dome pistons (supplied by NRHS) STD stage 4 dual plugged heads shaved to 12:1 comp (also from NRHS) XB rockerboxes Bronze oil drive gear and hi-po oil pump Amsoil 20-50 in both holes Forcewinder intake Force/NRHS signature big bore exhaust chain conversion custom 10" over Aluminum swingarm Dymag Carbon Fibre wheels Pirelli Diablo Corsa III tires misc other little tidbits 12 new pair of underwear Ross (Message edited by phelan on August 29, 2008) | ||
| Wwillco |
Dude, that's an expensive sounding, slightly scary list, haha. | ||
| Phelan |
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