| Author | Message | ||
     Migs16 |
how hard is it, and whats the easiest way? | ||
| Reepicheep |
My solution was to trade it in on an XB9SX, it was easy  I was at 30k on the original belt, and was relieved to trade it in. That was the one "big job" I never had to do on my M2. Might as well replace the isolators while you are at it. I seem to remember the "american thunderbike method" being discussed that seemed like a viable shortcut. Maybe I am mixing the jobs in my mind, and you can do the belt easier then the isolator. | ||
| Guell |
http://danielcstarr.googlepages.com/replacetuberis olators | ||
| Buellistic |
One of the important things that is not in FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL or no one adds in the "HOW TO", is that you want to compress the LEFT ISOLATOR as much as you can to make it easier to get the RIGHT ISOLATOR out ... It is a little time consuming, "BUT" not that hard ... The last time "i" replaced my REAR ISOLATORS they were up-dated with PN L0505.9R(right side) and PN L0504.9L(left side) ... (Message edited by buellistic on August 19, 2008) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
If you have service records on that bike and know the rear isolators were done within the last year or two just do the belt. The iso's aren't too bad once you're in there but if you don't need to change them just save yourself the effort. After having done the swap I read the american thunderbike and wished I'd done it that way... the danielcstarr method seems easier so I'll try that when my belt goes. Good luck brother, give yourself about five hours and be patient and maybe you'll get done early. Seems like I had to buy several 11/16th wrenches and a big allen for the job. If someone local offers help take them up on it, I know I appreciated the help I got. -Mike | ||
| 00nastym2 |
i will never put a belt back on my bike i got stranded 200 miles from home in the dark and hade to push the bike 5 miles to a store so instead of putting a new belt on i went with a 530 chain conversion with a very good oring chain not as quiet as the belt but just in labor i saved alot only about an hour and a half to put the conversion kit on | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
that belt replacing job seems like it would be a pain in the butt so i think when my belt goes im going to go with the chain conversion, seems like that would be easier to change on the side of the road. | ||
| Gohot |
You know Folks, changing isolators isn't as bad as it seems......yes its timely and yes it WILL be kosher, because it Will be blessed, several times.....but its about patience mostly, along with removing everything like plastic, carb, exhaust, yea its alot of stuff, but not as terrafying as you think. I'v done it twice on my 98 M2 so I'v found all the tricks that helped to make it easier. Also if you look at Guells post it may help substantially in not having to do so much removal of "STUFF". I'm going to be doing it again as I have to replace another isolator, and believe I have scored a S1 later aluminum swingarm on ebay, we'll have to wait and see on that one, never the less I must change isolators since its getting the new belt and one is just starting to tear, foolish not to replace them if I'm already there, ya think... so if it was one tool I'd say is most usefull in the replacement it would be a long 6-8" putty knife, 1-2" wide blade. for fishing the isolators in as you lower the frame onto the engine, or raise the engine in the frame "either or". Really if you have mechanical skills, you should be able to pull it off with not getting in over your head. If I can help with coaching you, or if you reached a impass, email me GoHot229@yahoo.com at that point I'll give you my phone number and walk you through it, or I am in South central North Carolina if your not too far away, I'v got lots of time, Disabled Vet and all, lots of time on my hands. (Message edited by GoHot on August 31, 2008) |
