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Xodot
| Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 10:19 pm: |
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I used ECM Spy today and saw the voltage was 11.0 to 11.3 V. Now the "engine" light is on. I assume I need a new stator. Two questions... Do these things drop voltage slowly or just go to zero all of a sudden? I repairing it difficult? I am up for a bit of a challenge and enjoy getting on the end of a wrench. Thanks Bob |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 11:43 pm: |
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Rule out the V/R first. When I really started having issues, I worried first that it was the stator... tested everything, and it was the Voltage Regulator... If you need to procedures, lemme know, I will try to get them to you. Chase |
Xodot
| Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 07:13 am: |
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Chase, VR looks an awful lot easier to replace than the stator so I hope it is the source of my problems. I would really appreciate your help to understand how to trouble shoot this low voltage problem. Thanks! Bob |
Oldog
| Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 01:17 pm: |
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VR and stator are easy to check the stator is the easiest. check the KV on the subject. |
Jos51700
| Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 05:14 pm: |
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Thorough diagnosis is key. Even a bad battery can cause same issue if it refuses to take a charge. The ECMspy voltage reading is NOT stator output voltage. |
Xodot
| Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 06:47 pm: |
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The ECMspy voltage reading is NOT stator output voltage. Oh?? What is that VDC reading on ECM spy? I have referenced my service manual and I ran the stator and regulator tests (except for the AC voltage test) - they are both OK. I will take my baby in for a the battery to be tested. I hope it is shot so I can easily replace it and get back to what we all enjoy most! |
Oldog
| Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 08:14 pm: |
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the ECM detects system voltage an sets an error for low voltage, the ECM converts that voltage to the digital value that you see to compare it to another number for the purpose of warning |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 11:29 am: |
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You didn't do the AC voltage test? Or you didn't pass the AC voltage test? Thats the most reliable test... if its not putting out AC volts, its the stator or the wiring attached to the stator. Does the primary oil stink? |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Monday, June 09, 2008 - 12:48 pm: |
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Okay, sorry, busy day yesterday, my daughter's 5th b-day.... Anyway... You need to locate the stator to V/R plug, its down by the oil pump, may even have a zip tie holding it together... Seperate the plug. the plug coming the from the rear, should be the stator side... get your multimeter, and set it to A/C volts. Then put a probe in each contact on the plug. Start the bike, and get your RPMs to 2000. Your voltage range should be 38-52 volts. If you are within range, then you need to move onto checking the V/R. If your voltage is off, then need to perform ground tests, and resistance checks on the stator(done from this plug). Hope that helps... Chase |
Xodot
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 09:13 am: |
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Yes the help from each of you is helping! There is no stink from the primary. Thanks for the explanation of the ECM Spy voltage reading Oldog. How else would I have ever known that?? Over the weekend I followed the VR and stator tests in the order they appear in the Factory Service Manual. The AC test is the last one listed and the only one I did not perform. So with Chase's direction, I did it this morning. I get 48-50 VAC @ 2000 RPM (aprox 2000, I was alone and have to haywire the throttle to about that running speed - may have been 2200 RPM).The only thing left is the battery load test. I wonder if I caused myself some unnecessary grief? When I did the first TPS reset I did not open and close the throttle 3-5 times after setting the TPS to zero. So last night I reset the TPS including this step. Also I had originally (on Saturday/Sunday)taken a long time (over an hour) to play with ECM spy with the ignition on but the lights fuse removed. Could this have discharged my battery enough to interfere with optimum performance from the DDFI? Might the combination of reduced battery and imperfectly set TPS resulted in the rough idle? I think perhaps it did because after a full battery charge overnight and a proper TPS reset it idles nicely now. I hope this is not too confusing for you\ I am going to have the battery load tested today just to be sure everything electric is performing well before I take her out of town and into the boonies. (Message edited by Xodot on June 10, 2008) (Message edited by Xodot on June 10, 2008) |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 09:49 am: |
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Actually, next you need to do a V/R Bleed test. Go back to that plug I told you about. Use the connector that goes to the V/R. Using a test light, touch one end of the test light, to either contact, and another to a GOOD ground. Complete for both contact pins. If light lights up, replace V/R. I am sure you dont have a load tester(though I could be wrong)... Buellistic might have a good procedure for testing the Voltage and amperage output without it... Chase |
Xodot
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 10:35 am: |
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you are correct, I don't have a load tester but I have access to one and will be getting that done after work today. I did do the VR Bleed test because it was one of the first tests listed in the manual. I went on this "alternator problem chase" because of low voltage readings on the ECM spy display - but now I am told by Oldog that the reading may not indicate a charging problem. To be honest I don't have a clear understanding of what that ECM Spy voltage reading really means as related to alternator performance other than it MAY NOT mean there is a problem - still looking for further understanding of that. I'll read up on ECM Spy further. I have not scratched the surface of how to use that tool past TPS and AFV rests. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 11:20 am: |
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Good luck. I am hoping to start getting down and dirty with ECM spy here soon myself. I have a few questions regarding USB cables, and plugs, etc which I need answered so I dont fry anything. Chase |
Xodot
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 12:17 pm: |
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You are right Chase, I don't have a load tester but I do have access to one and I will have that done after work today. I actually did the VR bleed test since it was one of the first tests listed in the factory service manual. It was the ECM Spy reading of 11.0 to 11.3 V that started me off on this hunt for an alternator problem. Oldog has described above what that reading means, although I confess I don't understand it's full implications - there is so much to learn!! I guess I'll know tonight if I have a problem after the load test or if this was just a good lesson that I'll need to know later! Your support is really appreciated! Regards, Bob |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 12:26 pm: |
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Good news then... the Stator is the biggest PITA to replace, and it sounds like yours is solid. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 03:20 pm: |
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Did you measure the battery while the engine is running? Measure on the battery terminals directly. THEN Measure on the battery leads. The voltages should both be the same at about 14.5 or so. If you have a voltage drop at the terminals, you will have issues. Remember that it is possible to have a good charging system and a good battery but if they're not connected to each other, you will have problems showing up all over the place. I learned this little lesson on my old '86 civic. My battery kept going flat while I was driving at random intervals. I finally found a broken ground strap going between the engine and the chassis. |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 05:48 pm: |
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Xdot, The "Reciever" for voltage may be off a little, 11.2 was Low and a good idea to investigate, do you have any other symptoms of battery / charging issues? my voltage readings using ECM spy will varry some with speed and load ( I can turm the head light on and off with a switch [ HID ] I second Nates suggestion check the voltage @ the battery with a volt meter then check a point some where on the harness for similar volts, any significant variation indicates a problem I have found my battery cables loose before. On another note. yes playing with ecm spy can run down the battery some when they get weak they can "go over a cliff and then die" my oem did that, the wally world battery will probably go soon the rest sounds good so far, Chase the USB cable is from Mouser electronics ~ 25$ see the KV and the archives if the duetch [whoever] connector is a problem get a radioshack 4 wire molex set and use that.. the driver is most likely to be the issue other wise. ping me the MFGR of the cable has the driver on the site its plug & Pray but it worked for me. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 06:27 pm: |
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Chase the USB cable is from Mouser electronics ~ 25$ see the KV and the archives if the duetch [whoever] connector is a problem get a radioshack 4 wire molex set and use that.. the driver is most likely to be the issue other wise. ping me the MFGR of the cable has the driver on the site its plug & Pray but it worked for me. And I have no clue what you just said.... I need to somehow make a cable go from the diag port, to the USB on my Palm Tungsten E2. I can tell it not to power off, so, I DONT THINK, I need the power to it? I dont know. This is the type of stuff I am lost in... Chase |
Xodot
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 09:40 pm: |
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Chase, About your cable...I was thinking here was a chance to return the favour since I have just built my cable and got the driver downloaded correctly - but I am sorry my friend, I have no experience with any Palm device. I did my ECM spy on a lap top (my daughter's actually!) I am too old school for the Palm crowd I am afraid! If you decide to go lap top though, I would be happy to walk you through it over the phone or whatever.. It is well worth the effort IMHO |
Xodot
| Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 09:44 pm: |
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Did you measure the battery while the engine is running? No I did not. I will follow your directions (exactly) however. I would never have thought of that Nate & Oldog... thanks} |
Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 07:46 am: |
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And I have no clue what you just said.... Sorry I did not know that the cable was for use with a plam ... ON a lap top, the converter / cable for ecm spy. The usb end has embedded circuitry and can be purchased from mouser electronics, for about 25$ + freight. The folks in the UK who make it have a web site that you upload the driver at. 3 wires from the adapter match up to the wiring harness plug ( folks were having issues getting the data port matching plug ) the driver loads "tacetly" no screens or prompts to speak of. I wish that you lived closer I would just drop by with my laptop in hand for a tweek / BS session. BTW happy birth day to the little one 5 Years old? they grow up before you know it |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 08:40 am: |
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Thanks Jim... I have a laptop as well, and can get a USB cable premade here in the states... The problem lies in trying to do the PDA for datalogging. Yeah, 5.... jeez, never thought I would have kids, let alone have one starting school. Thanks, Chase |
Xodot
| Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 - 12:13 pm: |
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When they leave school is a pretty significant time too... too early and they suffer, too late and we suffer! It's nice to hear you are enjoying her... Best regards, Bob |
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