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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 22, 2008 » M2 Wont start no Spark Help! « Previous Next »

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Psycrow
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I trolled through the KV for an hour but could seem to find an answer to this one. I was on my way home from a 3 day trip when on the third day about 400 miles from home I stop for coffee and when I come out the bike my 02 M2 will not start. I hit eh start switch and noting but a click. I jump the bike to ride it home. I was running in the rain all 3 days so I suspected water or corosion somewhere. I got home and cleaned the bike. Hit the start and nothing but that click. It was coming from 1 of 2 grey boxes under the seat next to the fuse box. I pulled them both cleaned the contacts(wet & dirty) dabed on some dielectric grease and hit the starter and the bike was turning over now but still wont start. I pulled the plugs and held them to the frame and did not see a spark. What are those 2 grey boxes(fuses or relays) and is one of them still my problem?

I do not have a manual yet.. dealer says he cant get one Im watching ebay.
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Sloppy
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're showing classic signs of a bad battery. Get it recharged. If this is it then plan on purchasing a new battery. Batteries typically last no longer than 5 years.

Check for any corrosion or a loose wire between the battery and it's connections.

Note when you test plugs for spark - when you try to troubleshoot for a spark then you need to hold it to a bare metal spot back to battery ground (use a wire or find a bare spot on the engine). The powder coat on the frame acts as an insulator and hence won't go to ground.

My first and likely suspicion though is the battery is bad.
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Psycrow
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2008 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Battery? It cranked the starter over for over 5 min and is still powering the headlamp and if I went out there now would still crank over the engine.. a bad battery will do that but give no spark? Im not arguing Im asking because I don't know that. Btw I thought of the bare metal and also tried grounding it to a large bolt holding the horn and plugwire guide. would that have provided sufficient ground? And what are those two grey boxes pluged in under there?
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Bad_karma
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2008 - 01:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jeff
Those gray boxes are your ignition and starting relays. Best to check your ignition fuse with a meter. Sounds like your safety circuit is killing power to the ignition. The Easiest way I have found to determine if it is any of the four switches is to jumper pin 85 of the ignition relay to ground and see if it starts and runs. Warning all the safety circuits are bypassed. It is possible to start the machine while in gear. If it runs you have narrowed it to the neutral switch or kick stand switch or the bank angle switch or the clutch switch. Refer to section 7 of the S1 manual here in BWB.
Joe

(Message edited by bad_karma on June 08, 2008)
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Psycrow
Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2008 - 07:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update: It wasn't the Battery, or the plugs and I bypassed the Relay as Bad K suggested but still no Spark so I threw in the towel and took it to the repair shop. They have had it over 4 days and can't figure it out either. I'm getting depressed, at least the weather has been crap here for the last 2 days.
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Jos51700
Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2008 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Coils and pickups can die, too...I'm sure they'll get it back to you soon.

What bothers me is the dealer that claims he can't get a manual.
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Psycrow
Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2008 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They have ruled out the Coil they are suspecting the Ignition Module I hope I'll know soon as well but by now I'm getting scared of the bill.
I'm sure it was just a dipstick in the parts department. They actually had one for an older M2 there he was trying to get me to buy and although I'm sure not a lot had changed they want almost $80 CND for it. That's a little steep. There is another dealer in my Provence about 3 hours drive and I will be there over the weekend so I'm going to stop in and see If they can do better on a manual. If not I'm sure one will pop up on Ebay before too long.
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Psycrow
Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 03:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the guy at the local Harley Shop says its the Ignition Module. He cant say for sure because he doesn't have the Harley specific tester. Anyone know how many OMEs the Ignition Module is supposed to read at.
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WARNING B.S.DETECTED!

Well the guy at the local Harley Shop says its the Ignition Module. He cant say for sure because he doesn't have the Harley specific tester.


The ignition module would not "OHM" except to check for ground, it simply turns the coils on and off in responce to the cam sensor input.

the testing is simple

if the pickup is good
and the module gets power

the coils should be getting a pulse
and making sparks



The coils can be checked with an VOM meter
(Volt Ohm Milliameter, meter to us mere mortals)
this too is in the S1 manual, the low voltage side is quite low ( nearly shorted )
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Psycrow
Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 - 11:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Section 7-8 of the manual here on Badweb states that if Ignition module is tested to ground it should read 1 Ohm or less. If it reads above 1 ohm to replace if no break in the harness is found. This is what the Mechanic is telling me, he can find no problem with any the the Safety switches or relays, the pick up or the coil. The mechanic at the Dealer I purchased the bike from (3 hrs away) says without testing it himself he cant say for sure but the diagnoses seems to fit. SO I guess I'm looking for an Ignition module. Well no one in Eastern Canada or Maine seems to have one best price is $113 USD + shipping and best estimate is 10 days on order. Ive heard it said here that you should not Repair but upgrade so I'm wondering if there is a better option. should I be considering an aftermarket or even a single fire system? Where is the best place to get it from. (yea I know a BadWeb sponsor but which) Id like to get something ordered by the weeks end. Thanks in Advance for any advice!
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