| Author | Message | ||
     Slingshot |
Hi all, Anyone have a easy way to remove the races in the steering head on 2000 X1? I needed to replace the bearings and can't get the races out. There is a special tool for this but I don't know where to get it. Any help would be great, Thanks | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't know the tool number but it's super handy. I used it when I replaced my races (nice working at a dealer). You can drive them out with either a long punch - bottom race out from the top, top race out from the bottom - or if you have the new bearings and races you can go to a good tool shop (or if you see a Snap-on or Mac tool truck) to try and fit a new driver. Be sure whatever you do that you can get a good solid hit on the driver. Not so much for the "out", but for the "in". Nothing worse than thinking you have the bottom race all the way in, and torquing the clamps back on, and riding the bike, to find the race wasn't actually in and now you have super loose steering. And no, a wheelie is not an accepted torque spec  I'll see if I can get the Miller number off our tool tomorrow at work for you. | ||
| Slingshot |
Thanks I would really appreciate that Ratbuell! | ||
| Werewulf |
i have never had the neck bearing out of a buell, but i did on my last v-rod...first i tried to knock them out with a screwdriver and beat the hell out of them, to no avail.. then i took a dremel tool and cut the race... then i knocked it out.. i was super careful and still got into the neck a bit.. i will never try that again... i will either buy a correct tool or pay someone to do it...hopefully buells are easier to remove.. | ||
| Phat_j |
buell bearing and vrod bearing.... same is as same does | ||
| Bernd |
Last time I took races out of a neck (DR650) I ran a bead with the mig welder all round the inside. Shrunk the race and it dropped right out. Then used it to drive in the new one. No guff! | ||
| Phat_j |
done that many times myself..... | ||
| Bad_karma |
I used the long punch on my 99 S3 races no problem, about to do my 96 S1 will try the same methods. Let you know how it goes. Joe | ||
| Sloppy |
If you've got a MIG welder then do exactly as Bernd says. If you don't have one, well, now you have an excuse to get one! Another option is purchase a pipe nipple (2"?), all thread, nuts, and large washers to wedge under the race. The washers need to be ground into an ellipse to fit into the steering head and then rotated to be wedged in. Hard to explain... On second thought, use a Factory type tool or a MIG Welder! The race will literally fall out... Don't recommend a hammer and punch as it is too easy to scratch up the inside steering head tube and it can gouge into the metal and cause a corrosion cell. When you go to install new races, you need to heat the steering head (I used a hair dryer) as just putting the races in the freezer doesn't quite get them small enough for an easy fit. | ||
| Ducxl |
Jim's Brand tools,as recommended in the service manual   Works for the headstock as well as swingarm bearings.A cool tool in my specialized collection | ||
| Oldog |
punch and hammer from back side for races out of frame torch bolt & hammer for lower race off of tree pipe and hammer lower bearing on tree bolt washers ground down old races - new races in frame replaced 14k miles passed inspection @30k miles I put anti sieze on outer races and frame prior to install, OH BTW on lower bearing to tree, install dust shield first see KV I detailed this back in 06..  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=536352#POST536352 (Message edited by oldog on June 01, 2008) (Message edited by oldog on June 01, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
The Jims Tools work just like the SpentMoore that Harley sends for removing, but I still find myself using the Mig'm'out method. I too, use the old races as a driver, they're shrunk now and the perfect size for driving the new ones in. When going in, you'll hear the tonk-tonk-tonk-tink. Stop on the tink. If you hit it again, the race can actually bounce back out of the frame a bit. The tink is the sound of the true bottoming of the race. I do also take a .002 feeler, and make sure there's no gap under the race. The SpentMoore installer is two big collars, and a long piece of hardened all-thread. I prefer to use it since the races can't bounce off the seat, but stong all-thread is hard to come by. | ||
| Ducxl |
SpentMoore  Where there's a will,there's a way. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"Where there's a will,there's a way." I have found that, although occasionally distasteful, hanging out with backwoods hicks in sleazy it's-a-scene-from-"Deliverance" places can teach one a lot about the wills and ways of fixing a machine. | ||
| Slingshot |
Thanks all, lots of great ideas, I had a dead spot in the steering, kind of like a click when I was steering straight ahead. This is probably the main reason to change the bearings. Anyhow I repacked and rotated them and now the click is all the way to the right. Not noticeable when riding. I know I just put a band aid on it. I will be using your suggestions to eventually fix. Thanks again! You guy are the best!  | ||
| Jos51700 |
Ayup. Dimpled race=indexed steering. Maintaining proper tension in the future should help prevent it next time. I usually go wacky-tight on the steering tension if I know the person will be doing lots of wheelies. | ||
| Slingshot |
Ayup. You hit the nail on the head. That's what you call it "indexed". As a matter of fact I probably came close to wacky-tight. Thanks Jos51700 for the input. |
