Author |
Message |
Dwardo
| Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 11:19 pm: |
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I just got my M2 completely ready for the season and have been riding it a lot this weekend. I notice that it has a lot of vibration at any rpm under about 2400. I know it's the nature of the beast and I don't find it annoying but I don't remember it being that rough before. I don't like to run the engine too slow anyway but I have to be near 60 or so to get into 5th gear without noticeable vibration. There is also sometimes a high-pitched squeaking noise at the same frequency. Is this a motor mount getting ready to go? I thought they looked pretty good when I inspected them. |
Limitedx1
| Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 12:19 pm: |
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not sure if it will relate or not but did you check your rear frame isolators? mine are causing some serious vibes cause they are trashed. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 10:58 am: |
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When the rubber goes bad, the vibes get worse with high revs. You know the sweet spot? like 3200 RPM will shake your shoes off if it's the rears and shake your hands off the bars if it's the front one. If it's cold outside, the rubber will be harder too. That will make it vibe a bit. |
Cbm2
| Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 10:37 pm: |
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Mine shakes crazily at idle (seems like way to much), enough that the bike can roll backwards when it is on the kickstand, and everything like the aircleaner vibrates a good two inches. I bought it that way and just got used to it and never really thought much about it. |
Sloppy
| Posted on Friday, May 30, 2008 - 01:36 am: |
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Failure of the front motor mount is hard to detect until it has completely gone out. Look carefully with a strong light and "peel" the rubber mount with your fingers. If you see a tear, typically along the "equator" then it's going bad. Another indication is a slight "clunk" sound when braking. From what your describing it sounds like it has gone bad -- they seem to last about 20,000 miles. Replacement of the front motor mount is simple and straightforward. Rear isolators give you warning by a tear along the perimeter and a change in seat height. Also there should be a gap between the isolator bolt and isolator. These were on a factory notice a loooong time ago when locating pins on the frame were made too long and cut into the isolator causing premature failures. Rear isolator replacement is considerably more difficult -- but you need to get in here to lube your swingarm bearings so you should already be checking these out anyway. |
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