Author |
Message |
Haven564
| Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 09:41 pm: |
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Does anyone have a rough $ estimate on getting the rear base cylinder gasket replaced at the dealer? Is a leaking base gasket something that could cause further damage if not fixed or is it just a PITA |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 11:39 pm: |
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Depends on how bad it's leaking...just enough to annoy? Ride a bit longer, keep checking your oil. Pissing a puddle every time you park? Get it fixed NOW. Figure about 4-6 hours labor depending on dealership. New, updated gaskets are good, no need for aftermarket stuff (figure about $75 for the "top end set" - have 'em do both cylinders while they're in there). If your tappet blocks aren't leaking, see if they'll leave them in place during the swap - don't mess with success, they're always a bitch to get sealed back up. On the upside? It's a good time to think about upgrading to better heads, higher compression pistons, etc. Your X1 is already a Thunderstorm engine, but you can always port the heads or install big-bore pistons/bore the cylinders once you have the engine apart to this point. Just food for thought, from the "more HP is almost enough" voice in the back of your head, lol. |
Hugie03flhr
| Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 09:25 am: |
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This is true, a few hundred more and you got a rocket! |
Cyclonemduece
| Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 11:18 am: |
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several hundred more i think he means |
Buell82
| Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 07:19 pm: |
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Give it a try on your own. If you have a little time to spend with your bike you can have all that repaired for under a $100. But I guess it all depends on your tool selection and how comfortable you feel with your wrenchin skills.:-) |
Haven564
| Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 08:46 pm: |
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I would love to do it myself. It's just when I look at the instructions for cylinder head removal in the book, I don't know what "mark the location and orientation (top/bottom)of each push rod" means or how do you "mark rocker arm shafts for reassembly in their original position". The way I'm looking at it you are removing the rocker boxes, pushrods, and cylinder. Then you put on the new gasket and put the pieces back together. Am i correct or is there more to it. Also the valves are tapping, at least thats what I think that tapping sound is that gets louder with speed.How would I go about replacing those? Could you point it out in the book? Thanks guys! |
Bartimus
| Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 12:53 am: |
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It's not as hard as it seems. And the shop will charge you about $600 do do it... I just replaced all the gaskets in the top end of my Harley. I had lost one of the lifter bearings at 19,000 miles, and decided while it was apart, I might as well replace those weeping gaskets... Just go through the manual a few times to get familiar with everything, then when you actually do the job, take pictures, and follow the manual closely. If you have any issues, quickly post here, and I'm sure someone will help you out... |
Jos51700
| Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 08:07 am: |
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If you're not comfortable doing it, then don't. It's not really safe to do work you're not qualified for...for you OR the bike. It's not hard, but it's sounds as if you're pretty "green" when it comes to working on stuff. I usually recommend fixing theses leaks sooner rather than later, but no matter how bad it leaks (and they actually leak less with a clean, square surface and no gasket at all, than with a bad gasket. Don't ask how I know) it's not pressurised oil, and no parts of the engine will starve for oil if it is losing oil there, as long as the oil tank has enough. And as mentioned, do both cylinders. It saves $ on labor, and prevents future problems. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 10:18 am: |
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For the "marking" of removed parts, I use a clean sheet and spread everything out in a physical "exploded view" of the engine. Lay it all out in the orientation and location from which it came, and you can't go wrong. You won't have to remove the rocker arms from their plates in order to do this repair, unless you want to for some reason. You can just remove the plate with the 2 shafts and 2 arms still attached. they only go back on the head one way. Lay your pushrods out in a fan pattern, the way they are when you look at them in the engine, etc. To echo the above - if you aren't comfortable with it, best to either have someone else do it, or if you really want to learn, get a buddy who's comfortable with the work to either supervise you as you do it, or do it with you looking over their shoulder. |
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