| Author | Message | ||
     Grancuda |
Allright, I felt more vibration than normal on my ride home today and I am trying to figure out what is wrong. I think that my rear wheel bearing outer race on the drive side is spinning in my wheel. I have yet to take it apart but on the stand when I spin the wheel there what I think is the outer bearing race and the wheel hub. I have 2 pics one I think is the race the other the hub of the wheel which the outer race should be pressed in. I have not dissasembled it but I think it is it for this wheel because these 2 items should turn together I believe.   | ||
| Warlizard |
After a ride, check to see if bearing is hot. Bearing failure is quite common especially w/ the PM's. I changed mine when I put on a wider tire and will do the same to the front when wheel is off. If you need bearings, get them from American Sport Bike as Harley will likely just give you another set from some 3rd world country. My originals were from Turkey. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Grancuda I don't believe that there is an outer race in that wheel. I will check my removed PM this morning when I get home. I have one damaged in the same place. A result of excessive belt tension. There are two bearings on the belt side. Joe | ||
| Numb_nutz |
My PM's did the same thing. I was putting new bearings in a set i got from ebay. I took a punch and put six dimples were the bearing race sits in the wheel and used a little red lock tite and mines been fine. We fix automotive wheel bearings races like that for years. I agree with joe, belt is most likely to tight. | ||
| Langperf |
The first picture the pick is on the outer bearing race, the second picture the pick is on the aluminum flange of the wheel that the bearing mounts in, the black ring below that is the visible part of the outer bearing seal. The outer bearing race should "press" into the wheel flange | ||
| Langperf |
Yes those 2 should turn together, the outer bearing race and the wheel flange | ||
| Grancuda |
Yes those 2 should turn together, the outer bearing race and the wheel flange They don't turn together so I guess I have a problem. The belt is too loose if anything. Has anyone seen any oversize bearings so that I might have my wheel turned out to a larger size? | ||
| Fullauto |
The fit would have to be extremely loose before the bearing turned in the wheel. Even then, it would only move a small amount. | ||
| Blks1l |
There is also a green Loc-tite product that is meant to take up some slight radial clearances as well. | ||
| Classicbuells |
Look up "Loctite 641 Bearing Fit". It is a retainer designed for this sort of situation. However, if the wear is more than a couple of thousandths of an inch you will have to have the wheel bearing bore made bigger and sleeved to bring the original size back. I always fit wheel bearings with Loctite Bearing Fit to prevent this happening. Good luck, you need a good machine shop I reckon. | ||
| Mikej |
Page 97 or so: (upload doesn't like the formatting so you'll have to copy and knit the address to the .pdf file together) ((argh, the American Sport Bike renamer took over)) just go to the following link and download the catalog with page 97 in it: http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_us/hs.xsl/6170_USE_HTML.htm (Message edited by mikej on April 29, 2008) | ||
| Blake |
Loctite 641 Retaining Compound Loctite® 641™ is a controlled strength retaining compound that is ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum diametral clearance of 0.008". Fixtures in 20 minutes. (Message edited by blake on April 29, 2008) | ||
| Buellistic |
This is the CAUSE, but not the fix ... This is what happens when you run with the Drive Belt adjusted TOO TIGHT AND IF ADJUSTED CORRECTLY YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE FIX !!! | ||
| Grancuda |
Looks like I am just going to buy a new wheel and have some nice garage art | ||
| Grancuda |
This is what happens when you run with the Drive Belt adjusted TOO TIGHT AND IF ADJUSTED CORRECTLY YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE FIX !!! I am sure it has nothing to do with the cheap bearing that is semi-locked up and the soft billet aluminum wheel. MY BELT IS ADJUSTED TO SPEC AS SHOWN IN THE BUELL SERVICE MANUAL, I DON'T NEED ANY LITERATURE TO TELL ME HOW TO DO IT. I know that it must be hard for EXPERTS out there dealing with everyone being complete idiots but some people can read a manual and put the words together to form sentences and look at the little pictures to get the idea and us small people can actually figure out how to adjust a belt. | ||
| S1_lightning_nl |
When you adjust the belt as written in the service manual it will be too tight! (Message edited by S1_Lightning_NL on April 30, 2008) | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Not a put down Grancuda but it is all over, and I mean dozens of threads and hundreds of posts that the manual is incorrect and makes the belt too tight (do a search and you will be reading the same info for hours). Yes, aluminum wheels and cheap bearings make it worse. No point buying a new wheel, you can most likely fix it with loctite as described above. If it is beyond that, having it machined is still going to be less than a new wheel. | ||
| Grancuda |
When you adjust the belt as written in the service manual it will be too tight! If this is the case then wouldn't this be a dealer issue, the fault of the manufacture? | ||
| Bikerjim99 |
Belt tension on tubers has been discussed quite a bit. Please check it out in the Knowledge Vault, or archives. Many of us have been running our belts much looser than the manual indicates. I feel that there is much evidence that it works better. I wouldn't worry about the information in the manual, or whose fault it is about that information. Listen to the voice of experience. Many years ago I had a Japanese bike that called for an overhaul of the carbs every 2000 miles. Not many of us did that! | ||
| Oldog |
Cuda while Buell may have a new PM wheel, get ready to write a BIG check for it they listed for over 800$ new, they are no longer available from PM. | ||
| Jackbequick |
You are more or less in the situation of preserving or continuing the life of a near classic bike now. If the bearing and seal retainer mentioned above does not salvage a good fit on a replacement bearing, you'll have to consider more dramatic measures. If the bearing bores are oversized but not all torn up and roughened, you may be able to put a single layer wrap of thin shim stock around a new bearing to take up the excess space evenly. Think in terms of starting with real thin shim (steel or stainless steel is best) in thicknesses like .001 or .002 or so. A little bit will go a long way and you don't want to create a heavy forced fit. And it can be combined with the use of the Loctite 641 Blake recommends too. There are two other threads going here with discussion of wheel bearings, you might find those of interest too: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/357180.html?1209633166 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/347045.html?1209667956 They'll give you some ideas of what you have to watch for and do to get best out of those wheels. The next step in saving that wheel would be to get the bearing bores rebored to either take a slightly larger bearing or to have a repaid insert fitted and bore that back to the right size. That will require some precision machine work by a machine shop of a type that is getting hard to find. The projected service life on those wheels was measured in terms of a few bearing replacements. That is because each cycle of pressing a bearing out and another in enlarges the bore a little. Even when it is done by a skilled person with the right tools. You've got a nice bike there, it will take more creativity and work to keep it going but you have a civic duty to do that. :>  I'm joking of course, but the tubers are not all used up yet. Jack | ||
| Bad_karma |
Here are a few pictures the first is the pulley side with about .012" clearance and the second is of the brake side. Joe   | ||
| Jackbequick |
Were you able to save that loose one, Joe? Or have you tried yet? That might be a candidate for the 641 repair and maybe also with a layer of shim stock. If the .012 is close to right, a piece of .005 might be about right. Cut the shim stock to a length that leaves a small gap (no overlap) and is a little wider than needed. You can leave the shim stock standing too high and then trim it down to the top of the bearing with a razor blade after it is all set up. Don't put a radial load on the bearing until the 641 is fully set up and it will pretty well centralize itself. Jack | ||
| Bad_karma |
Grancuda No I haven't saved it yet. With the info acquired from the recent PM wheel/bearing posts and my measurements I believe I will try the locktite 248 and ceramic bearing later this summer after I get the upgrades to the S1's suspension completed. Joe | ||
| Grancuda |
Well, I bought a wheel off ebay and the wheel has the same problem. So I am going to go the Lock Tight route. I took the wheel to a friend who does machine work and builds drag bikes to have him machine the wheel an put a sleeve in and he said it didn't need it to just use the thick green lock tight and that is all it would need. So now I think that is the route I will go. | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
take a look in the following link, http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/357180.html?1210056429 I had the similar issue and I used Loctite 648 and from then, no spin on the rear wheel pulley side. Good luck!! |
