| Author | Message | ||
     Elpanameno |
There is a big oil leak on the ground under my 98 m2. it looks like its coming from the clutch cable, which is cracked. Do i need to replace the whole cable or do you think its just a gasket that needs to be replaced? I guess I should replace my primary oil.  | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Looks to me like the cable needs replaced. And I would change the fluid also. | ||
| Elpanameno |
another pic  | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
question is, why is it leaking? It would appear that the pressure is building up and oil is being forced out through cable. I would look for a pinched breather line or obstruction first. Without being vented, pressures build and cause leaks like that. | ||
| Fasted |
cable entry point near derby cover is below oil level in primary cover. bad o ring (doubtful), loose ferrule that threads into primary case (doubtful), or breach in cable housing (very likely)will cause the leak. no pressure inside case needed, gravity works fine. wipe the cable clean and observe origin of leak. be prepared to pay $60 for a cable, and an hour out of your life to install it. if you have to do it again in the future, it will only take 1/2 hour. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
The cable cover is 'crimped' onto the 'ferrule' (good word fasted!). I'd say just due to age, that 'crimp' is now leaking. I noticed mine had a good amount of oil residue around that crimp too when I was changing the fluid a couple days ago. I already have a spare clutch cable (carry with me while touring), but it wasn't really leaking yet, so I just cleaned it up, and I'll keep an eye on it for awhile. Of course, that's all just guessing. But if there was a pressure build up, it would blow or spray out the breather (that exits behind the license plate). UNLESS maybe that breather is kinked or clogged, which WOULD cause a pressure buildup, and could cause this leak. Might be something to look into. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
If you do replace the cable, don't over tighten it at the case. It's easy to weaken or break the section that threads into the case, causing it to leak like that and necessitating another $60 trip to the dealer. A #2 easy-out will help you remove it, after you've removed the primary cover, cut the cable, and fished the end out from the tranny fluid. Ask me how I know... | ||
| Jos51700 |
Originally, I said, "None of the above", but the OP did name the cause of the issue. I just wanted to edit myself, and try not to be a total prick. Sorry if I offended. (Fasted, who said the casing being cracked could likely be it, but missed it in the picture, did sorta name it). It IS the outer housing allowing a leak. You can see here, where the outer cable which is what seals in the oil, is MISSING in between the cable guide. (Look for the exposed metal "ribbing" that the outer cable housing is made of. It's actually wound 'round, like a wound guitar string). You can see the ribbing under the black plastic in other parts of the cable. If wrapping this area with tape after cleaning slows down the leak, you know for sure, but I don't need to. It's plainly visible.  (Message edited by jos51700 on March 22, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
Full cable replacement is the "most" desirable (to me, anyway) method of repair, but tape, heat shrink, etc. will slow it down considerably. To clarify, the inner plastic lining of the cable seals in oil, as does the crimp and the outer housing, but that close to the end, the oil is "corkscrewing" up the outer winding, as well. ZenFrogMaster has wise advice indeed. | ||
| Iamike |
That's the beauty of of Badweb. Most of us have experienced those little 'Oh-s__t' moments without the expense of a professional mechanic. The best part about doing it yourself is that if something breaks on the road you're more likely able to fix it. | ||
| Jackbequick |
If you disconnect the cable end from clutch and unscrew it from the housing, you may be able to save that cable by sealing the leak with a piece of the adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Degrease that area as best you can with aerosol carb cleaner or something, and then shrink on a piece that will span most of the the metal end and and inch or two past the crack in the sheath. When you mount that the concept is that the sheath be out of the clamps, free to turn or separated at the adjuster, and the sheath gently curved. That way the entire lower part of the cable, sheath and all, is rotated as it threads into the primary cover. It does not need to be very tight (only enough to lightly compress the o-ring) as the normal curve in the cable will keep it from rotating later. Replace the O-ring before putting the cable back and just tighten it enough to compress the O-ring a little. The end fitting on the cable is aluminum and easily twisted off, the thread in primary cover is that soft granular cast aluminum and easily stripped. There is lots of potential for creating unhappiness there. Jack | ||
| Djkaplan |
Couple of tips for clutch cable changing. 1 - Snake some old tubing alongside the old clutch cable where it goes up behind the flyscreen to the lever perch and leave it there when you disconnect the cable from the lever. This will allow you to use the same route throught the mass of wiring when you install the new cable. 2 - Don't remove the cable from the primary first, remove it from the handlebars first and then carefully pull it out (leaving the old tubing as a guide). This will make the cable much easier to remove from the primary. 3 - I wouldn't change the oil unless it was time, but it it would be a good idea to make sure the oil level is correct. Definitely go through the entire clutch adjustment procedure. 4 - Inspect the clutch lever itself. There is a brass insert in the hole the cable fits into. Sometimes, this brass fitting wears out and the lever needs to be replaced (you can punch them out and reuse them from broken levers if you have any laying around). 5 - Save the rubber boot and nuts from the old cable and put them in your 'magic fastener box'. | ||
| Road_thing |
I usually put shrink tubing on new clutch cables as a precautionary measure. rt |
