| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
BluzM2 posted this over in the M2 section: "I have fiberglass repairs on both my son's and my S2. " So I figured this would be a good lead-in to ask about typical S2 bodywork repairs. Not sure what Brad is doing to the two S2's in his garage, but do know mine has the seemingly typical needed touch-up below the So, what are typical S2 bodywork repairs, and how have you done them, prepped for them, and so forth. Pics showing the before/after/in-process would be great. My garage is basically unheated, and our basement has a gas furnace, so I think I need to wait for warmer weather do to any glassing work. (Message edited by mikej on January 07, 2008) | ||
| Road_thing |
Mike: Mine had little "pimples" in the factory paint that I had to grind out and fill with Bondo. Not sure what caused them, but I've seen them on several S2's. Also have some cracks in the gelcoat above the taillight that I've been unable to completely do away with--they telegraph through the new paint slightly. Gives it character! That solo tailpiece I built had broken completely through on the bar below the taillight-I epoxied a piece of 1/8" rod to the back of the remnants before repairing with 'glass and bondo. Can't think of anything else. rt | ||
| Kmbuell |
It's been awhile since I did my S2. I did significant repairs and modifications to all of the F/G parts. I'll try to remember all the steps. Number 1 - If your work space is in the house with a gas furnace, wait for warmer weather. Fiberglass resin is quite flammable, and it smells quite bad. Want to anger your S/O, do some fiberglass in the house. The cracks under the taillight are caused by the tail section flexing. It is a real weak area. I was able to eliminate it as an issue buy significantly grinding out the soft cracked area and rebuilding it with glass mat and resin. Be careful using metal as a reinforcement, normally F/G resin does not bond all that well to metal. If you use epoxy it will work well, but with a whole new set of safety precautions. One of the worst issues with all F/G Buell body work is that the gelcoat is FAR too thick and the glass is quite thin in many areas. Grind back the gelcoat several inches to make your repairs. You may be surprised how thick it is. I've found places where 1/8" is the norm. It should be less than 1/32". Gelcoat is very weak, that's part of the problem. Also grind back the inner surfaces to match. After grinding, clean the surfaces with acetone. In a safe environment! Do your F/G repair, if it takes more than one time to build up the thickness you want, you must sand and clean the surface again, most resin has wax in it to allow it to cure correctly. Once you are close, sand, fill w/ bondo, sand, prime w/ 2-part surfacer, sand again, and finish. I'm sure someone will have other ways to do this,but this works, and keeps working. My last paint job is pushing 8 years old, no cracks, no blisters, nothing. Good luck, don't burn down the house! | ||
| Onahog |
I also had to repiar mine under the taillamp... I formed a piece of Mild steel 3/16 welding rod and glassed it in...I layed it inbetween layers of matting and pretty much filled the whole lip in with glass mat and resin.......Worked well and now the MF....r is Tough...Hb | ||
| Hillbilly |
I am a collision repair man for 34 years now.These body parts are not fiberglass. You shouldnt use fiberglass rein to repair these parts.Even corvetts havnt been fiberglass since I think the 60s.These parts are plasic and should be repaired with plasic repair material like 3m 2part.Or worth.You use these materials on corvetts.Corvett (SMC) plasic is repaired with these produts.SMC does have chopped glass in it for extra strenght.You can use resin on these plasics but it will not adhere,If you bend it it will seperat and you can pry it off.And it will swell up not long after it is painted.I dont know of any bikes with fiberglass on them.Or cars for that matter.To repair plasic V out the crack as wide as you can and fill it with repair material.If you need extra stregnth 3m has a mesh you can put on the back side(sand or grind down first for a good bond)then put repair material over.As good as new. Plasics are so misunderstood even in collision repair. | ||
| Hillbilly |
If you have repair questions e-mail me. Sorry for my bad spelling. | ||
| Mikej |
Hillbilly, I'm pretty sure the S2 is in fact a fiberglass. S1, nope, M2, nope, S3, nope, but an S2 is a different beast. I could be wrong. ps, in my younger days I owned a 1962 Corvette, fiberglass.  (Message edited by mikej on January 30, 2008) | ||
| Aaomy |
s2 body work is fiber glass.. and fiber glass is the perfect repair material.. or billet al where i can use it!!! he he he when i got my bike it was totaled.. laid down on both sides.. that is original body work,, repaired {fiberglass} and resprayed with rattle can. in my profile pick.. sorry fairing was switch with less damaged one that i also repaired.. not enough pieces left of original to repair. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Funny, I don't have any cracks under my taillight. I wonder if having the saddlebags (and bracket) strengthens the tail? I do have some warts on top of the tail, between the seat lock and the "S2 Thunderbolt" decal. Under the paint, looks like bubbling paint but it's solid and doesn't move when you poke it. It's not getting any worse, so I'm just leaving it alone. I also have a crack on each side of the tank cover where it curves down to meet the tail section - about in line with the petcock, and same spot on the other side. Pre-existing, I'm guessing someone put the tank cover on under stress, instead of lining it up properly. Not growing, so I'm not messing with 'em | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, you are correct. The S2's are DEFINITELY fiberglass. I'm repairing a tail and fairing as a current project. 97 on up and are all plastic, I think the 96 S1's are also plastic. | ||
| Hillbilly |
Maybe the S2s are fiberglass I realy cant say.But I still think they my be SMC.Smc has glass in it and is often confused with fiberglass because of the glass.Unfinish SMC that hasnt been sanded will have a marble look. Usually will be gray in color. And yes about the 62 corvette would have been fiberglass.If I remember it was when they made the body change.It was the very late 60s Gm changed to SMC , it is much stonger and less likly to crack.Im just trying to help. | ||
| Mikej |
And we appreciate the help. The '62 'vette had the newer tail section and the older nose. Sure miss that thing. | ||
| 1313 |
The bodywork made by Buell on every S2 was made of fiberglass using the RTM process. Describing Resin Transfer Molding would be akin to injection-molded fiberglass. The fiberglass cloth was laid in place inside the multi-piece molds, then the molds were closed and screwed and clamped shut, and finally the two part resin (polyester in 1995 MY and epoxy in 1996 MY) was injected into the mold. 1313  | ||
| Onahog |
MikeJ.......I think your car was a 1961 Vette... That was the year that had the new ass/old front...1973 was again the same thing done...Those are the only 2 years that was done as far as I no....Hankb.... | ||
| Mikej |
Nope,memory not gone yet, looked like this one:  Pretty much the same as the '61 though:  Really, really miss that car. 'scuse me now while I go find the classifieds to I can look for a third and fourth and fifth job so I can get another one some day.  I wouldn't kick a '63 out of the garage though if one of those came my way instead:  Oops, this is a motorcycle board, sorry.  | ||
| Hillbilly |
Nice vette | ||
| Ratbuell |
Guy down the street has a 64 or 65. Not a 63 because it's not a split window. Been there since I bought my house 11 years ago, and its so dirty you can't tell where paint stops and window glass begins other than from the shape change of the trim. Typical "I'm gonna fix it up someday" is all I get every time I stop by and ask about it. OBC (Obligitory Buell Content): I usually stop by on the bike |
