| Author | Message | ||
     Fed |
hi tube guys i'm an xb guy that will be getting a 98 S1W. it was repainted and the fuel tank has bubbled. i searched the K/V but didn't find enough info. From what i can tell, the fuel vapors go thru the tank and bubble paint that wont let the vapor pass thru. can the tanks be lined with the same stuff that metal tanks can be lined with? or better yet, what have you guys done that has worked. i'll probably have more questions after i get the bike. Thanks in advance for your advice. | ||
| Darren |
Hi Fed, Your question came up in August use the search engine and look for PR1005L. Read the thread this PR1005L looks to be the best option. This email below was sent by the manufacture. Darren It should stick to nylon fine. Actually we have a small nylon tank from a UCAV in our lab for testing with PR-1005L. Do three or four fill & drain slosh coats to get a good thickness. Allow several hours to air dry between coatings. Since it cures solely by solvent evaporation, getting good air circulation in the tank is very important. You might want to put an airline into promote air exchange. After final coat let dry at least three days. Now - the first time you put gas in the tank the gas will turn red-purple. This is the colorant coming out of the PR-1005L. It is normal, and the dye we use is the very same that is used in the gasoline itself. Regards, Bill | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Fed, I've only seen decals bubbling rather than paint. I've seen decals blown up like little balloons they were so inflated and still trapped under the lacquer. I had the decals cut off carefully and stencilled the decals back in with an air brush. So it now looks like decals but is actually paint. So far it seems OK. | ||
| Darren |
This is the previous thread link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/296201.html?1186868052 | ||
| Billetmetallic |
my guess is that if it wasnt originally sealed on the inside and the original paint did not bubble than all these people that repainted their tank and it bubbled did something wrong, I would search out the proper procedure of painting the tank rather than sealing the inside, just my 2 cents. | ||
| Darren |
I think your wasting your time! But it would be nice to be proved wrong! Just a thought. 99% of all tanks I have seen on eBay or this and any other site someone has asked, or the ad says some paint or decal bubbling. X1 tank is made from the same plastic, but has a coloured outer skin cover, mmmm I wonder why? In my opinion and I stand to be corrected. It was a flaw with the painted plastic tanks. Even if your paint shop gives you a life Guarantee it will take 1-2 years and you will get paint or decal bubbling. By sealing the tank with PR1005L you will remove this problem. I really searched around and this is a common practice to seal tanks on restorations or on performance tanks. There are a lot of products on the market but the PR1005L is the only one I could find to work with nylon tanks. If you do a search on this website you will find paint or decal bubbling is a common problem on tuber plastic tanks. (Make sure you it before you paint the outside encase it damages the new paint) | ||
| Smoke |
i took the stickers off of my 97 s1 tank in 99, sanded it down, painted it black imron, clearcoated imron-no bubbles since-looks like new still! sealer is for rusty steel tanks that have to be reused. ymmv tim | ||
| Billetmetallic |
apples and oranges on the x1 comment darren, i think they were onto something with the keep the primer "thin" in the link you posted, its all in the prep, i would really be curious as to the proper prep that al at american sport bike has, and i do agree with tim, sealer is for rusty steel tanks | ||
| Ceejay |
all in the prep-keep the primer thin/low build and you won't have any problems... | ||
| Djkaplan |
I've had my tank painted twice, the first time was perfect with no bubbling. Only PPG product were used. The second time was with Sikkens products and now it's bubbling. My empirical evidence agrees with the information gathered in the past by Al Lighton. I don't speak for him, so take that into consideration... This info came directly from the good folks at Buell that were kind enough to forward it to me when I'd asked about how to prevent paint bubbling on Buell Tube frame tank repaints. This is what they use to paint the tanks originally, and Buell hasn't had a problem with PAINT bubbling, only decal bubbling. They won't warranty that if you follow the info contained herein that you won't have paint bubbling, but I'm guessing you won't have a problem if you follow it. Al PPG primer we use Primer is K36 PPG Hardener is K201 PPG Reducer can be any of the following DT-895 DT-885 PPG base coat types we use The Base coat is Deltron 2000 which is DBC PPG clear coat we use DCU2042 PPG is speed clear Hardener is DCX9 PPG Reducer can be any of the following DT-895 DT-885 I've never had a problem with PPG products. I have the bubbling problem now with Sikkens products. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I had bubbling on my S1Ws original (Ice White Pearl) tank. Recently installed a goodwill tank with the raised badges, no signs of impending bubbling. I also had a 99 M2 that I bought new, in Molten Orange. From the factory it had the raised badge logos (indicating goodwill-era finishing) and in the 30k miles I owned it I never had an issue. The factory must have changed something between 98 and 99 in their paint processes; I have seen many M2s and S3s with perfectly OK factory paint on them. | ||
| Onahog |
Ratbuell...Ya need to check out and post on the S2 owners Group section of strom fronts...HB |
