| Author | Message | ||
     Sloppy |
I'm getting ready to do my oil pump gear upgrade but I wasn't sure if I needed to drill out the rivets in the timing cover and remove the switch or if I can just remove the cam cover to get to the gear without drilling this out. Thanks. | ||
| Nocompromise |
You *cannot* (EDIT so no one misreads this in the future) just remove the cam cover without drilling the rivets in the timing cover. Now that I've had my rocker boxes off a few times it doesn't seem like a big deal, but it was somewhat of a pain the first time I took the cam cover off. There are a lot of good tips already posted. Here are a few from my experiences: 1. Use dowels in the bolt holes to hold and align the gasket when you're reinstalling the cam cover. 2. Either remove both rocker boxes, or remove one and put the other cylinder at TDC. DO NOT put anything that can snap in the spark plug hole to check this. Either watch the rocker arms if you have the cover off, or put something like a taped up popsicle stick in the hole. 3. I couldn't change the oil pump drive gear without removing the cams. There seems to be a lot of fuss about keeping the cams in, but I don't see why. Putting the cams back in place and lining them up took all of 2 minutes. 4. Keep track of where all the rocker box and cam cover bolts go by punching them through a piece of paper in their relative positions. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck! (Message edited by nocompromise on November 01, 2007) | ||
| Spiderman |
You can just remove the cam cover without drilling the rivets in the timing cover. WHAT!! You need to remove the timing cup before removing the cam cover, so yes you will have to drill the rivets. Buy a service manual, best investment you can make... | ||
| Buellistic |
Sloppy Get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR and MODEL BUELL !!! THEN READ IT !!! YOU MUST TAKE THE VALVE SPRING PRESSURE OFF THE CAMS !!! "HINT", scribe a mark on the SENSOR ASSEMBLY PLATE/COVER ASSEMBLY(cam) so when you put back together it will be some what close to being in time ... The CAMS usually come out with the cam cover !!! "HINT", TAKE THE REAR ROCKER ARMS OFF FIRST AS EVERYTHING(timed/timing) IS SET UP OFF THE FRONT CYLINDER !!! One thing "i" can say for sure, YOU CAN NOT PUT THE "OIL PUMP" Drive Gear in backwards !!! Replace the POP RIVETS with SELF TAPPING SCREWS Harley-Davidson PN 2662W ... "HINT", all bolts and screws are not the same lenght/size !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Sloppy |
Thanks for the extra tips -- didn't know about the self tapping screws; thx for PN's. Yea, I've got a well used FSM, but just wasn't sure how the ignition timing cup was attached. Sometimes the FSM goes farther into disassembly than what is actually needed. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Spidey/Sloppy - Sorry for mis-remembering, and thanks for the catch!  I thought the only reason I had to drill out the timing cover rivets was because I needed to completely remove the cover to get it stripped and coated. I forgot about the timing cup. Whoops! Sloppy - I agree that one of the flaws of the FSM is that it sometimes directs you to disassemble things that don't need to be disassembled. Buellistic - Great tips! The one about scribing a mark for timing was very helpful to me too. (Message edited by nocompromise on November 01, 2007) | ||
| Xldevil |
Never ever work on your bike without knowledge.Buy yourself a factory service manual,like LaFayette said. I can recommend the Clymer for frame mounted Evo-Sportsters whose engine is the same to work on. @Nocom Don´t intent to teach you ,but none should give any tips if he or she is not a 100%sure. Ralph (Message edited by xldevil on November 01, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
Glad you caught that spidy.. you will want the jims tool to hold the pinion gear, dont forget the red loctite for the locking nut. Oh make sure that you get the correct gasket for the gear cover. and you don't need the dowels | ||
| Sloppy |
What type of gaskets do you recommend for the valve covers? Factory, Jim's, Cometic? I know Factory has improved significantly since going to the metal stamp variety but wasn't sure which is the best to get? How about recommendations on intake gaskets / seals as well? I was planning on switching to Screaming Eagle exhaust gaskets as the factory ones crimp up badly in the exhaust port. Anyone have experience with these SE gaskets? | ||
| Darren |
Download a FREE S1 Manual from http://www.ukbeg.com/downloads.htm  | ||
| Buellistic |
Sloppy & BUELLers: The OEM metal(can be reused)one piece H-D PN 16800-84A work just fine ... Put the ROCKER ARM TOP gaskets in the FREEZER for a couple of hours if not damaged in any way you can reuse them, "i" do ... The OEM intake SEALs H-D PN 26995-86B are the ones to use as the -86C one are no good ... If you do not have a cooling fan it is a good preventive maintaince idea to replace them every two years ... Use GASKET,exhaust port H-D PN 17048-98 as the H-D PN 65324-83A are no good ... In BUELLing LaFayette |
