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Jc000
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sigh...

I decided to take a stab at my first real wrenching on my bike—replacing my throttle and idle cables. I have the manual, removed the cables from the handlebar throttle assembly, removed the air cleaner, and... how the heck do I a) remove the other end of the cables and b) route the new ones in?

It's looking more and more like I should have removed the gas tank (something else I've never done) but it doesn't mention that at all in the manual. Is there some trick I'm missing? Am in way over my head??? I now have a disconnected throttle cable, a partially disconnected idle cable, a removed air box, and no idea what to do next.

Help? Please?
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Wile_ecoyote
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, you will be removing tank. Is it fuel inject or carb? Either way they have to come loose from there also. When putting new ones in, follow the same route. If its got a tie on it do that too. Before riding bike make sure they are adjusted properly and turn handlebars lock to lock and see if it picks up revs. If it does you have a bind that is causing that. Dont ride it till you fix it, can cause an accident. The manual should show tank removal. Remember to clamp down fuel lines also. Dont want any leaks. It'l be imperative if fuel inject as the fuel line will be under pressure when running. Good luck, if I were closer I'd come and help.
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After you pull the tank, you will feel a lot better. You will be able to see what you are doing. Take your time and don't panic. I've had to do it on the side of the road(so it's not that difficult)Be careful not to get the two cables mixed up as to where they go(make notes if you have to) Once you have done, it's easy.....Charlie
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Jc000
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's carbed, and yes, that's where I'm having the issues, where the cables connect to the throttle manifold.

Looks like the tank is coming off—hopefully not a difficult operation for a noobie. When clamping down the fuel lines, what types of clamps do I use? Wish I wasn't so inexperienced but at this point I think pride is gonna keep me from getting it towed to the dealers!

Anyway I appreciate the info and the sentiment (in coming to help). I do think if I can manage to get the tank off without any real issues, I'll be able to get the cables situated.

Thanks!
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Jc000
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Charlie, looks like the tank is my issue, and the door to getting this thing finished.
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Fasted
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if you be digital, take as many pix as you need while disassembling to insure low stress reassembly. 1 pic speaks 1000 words
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Zenfrogmaster
Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tank comes off with a 1/2" wrench. Before you do that, pull the vent line off at the cap end, and close the petcock. Loosen the screw clamp on the fuel line and pop it off.

When you take off that single bolt at the rear of the tank, there will be two toothed metal plates - remember their orientation for later (but it's printed on them). Lift up the rear of the tank to "unhook" the front tab that goes under the frame tube.

And what I've always wanted to say: Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will have to take a pick or little screw driver and pry the end up to get it off. It won't be any good when you get through.Some come apart fairly easily and others can be a real pain. Don't worry about the clamp, just be gentle with the petcock.........Charlie
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sheet metal shears or diagonal cutters you don't care about.

I have no idea why they used those damn things!
Wormgear clamps work fine.
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Jc000
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the tanks off, I've taken pictures of the cable routing... unfortunately I think I am at a real dead-end here. There is a brass colored part (throttle cable clamp) where the cable housings end which route the cables to the carb. The brass colored part is held by an allen bolt and none of my keys seems to fit it (looks to be around a 2-3mm?).

Not looking too good.
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Wile_ecoyote
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like being a new mechanic you need to buy yourself some good tools too. I like craftsman so when I break it I go get another free.
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Jc000
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, I am a bicycle mech part-time. Man, it's infinitely tougher working on the motorcycle than it is a bicycle where everything is laid out right in front of you! I have some good quality Park (top bike shop brand) allen keys which didn't fit—luckily my crappy key I had straggling in the bottom of the toolbox did!

Got one cable routed, now trying to get the (much more difficult) idle cable seated in the collar.

Halfway home?

Got a craftsman set... it's awesome.
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 05:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought Craftsman quit their "lifetime" replacement guarantee.

Are you certain they still do that?
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Ducxl
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Snap-On does

It really matters little.I've yet to over stress a tool to the point of breakage.There's a correct tool for each job

JC KEEP YOUR CHIN UP. You can do it.You may need a set of better tools though,but relax 'cuz it 'aint rocket science
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JC,
When you go back with your new cables,(you will probably need to run your adjusters all the way in to hook up the cables) Make sure you don't get them to tight adjusting back out,or they will bind and not return properly. Better a little too much slack than too little.......Charlie
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Nocompromise
Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Craftsman still has a lifetime warranty as far as I know. I exchanged some 10 year old tools that had worn out a couple weeks ago. It was so easy I don't know why I waited. I brought the tools in and the guy had me pick new ones off the shelf. He rang up the new ones in their computer (no charge obviously) and I went on my way. They didn't ask any questions about why or how the tools broke or wore out. I'm 100% happy with Craftsman quality and their warranty.
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Jc000
Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Slowly but surely you;re getting me through this—thanks a ton.

Got the throttle cables routed and in the housing... they seem to be operating just fine. I didn't adjust them, just put them on, but they seem to be operating as described in the manual.

Just getting the airbox back on now. Is there an easier way to get these hoses back on the front and rear breather bolts? I feel like I'm doing something wrong (trying to wrestle them on to the bolt) those are a real PITA!

Very near the end, could not have done it without your guys advice.

Not the same as swapping out cables on a mountain bike!
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Wile_ecoyote
Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'll feel great when you get it done. Knowing that you've done it all by your self, congrats.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've put a dab of grease or antiseize on the hose fittings for the breathers, they tend to pop on easier. WD40 works too, anything to lube 'em up.

The reason they try to stay away from worm gear clamps is you can overtighten them and shatter a plastic hose fitting inside the hose. I use the more expensive but finite-sized stainless EFI clamps from the auto parts store. Commonly available in 1/4 and 5/16 hose sizes, they have a screw, a square nut, and a one-and-one-quarter wrap solid steel band that does the clamping. You canNOT tighten them past the point they're designed for, but you still get a very good seal from them.

And, being stainless, they don't crust up like worm gears do, LOL.
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Iamike
Posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JC-
If you started as a bicycle mechanic you are well on your way. I started wrenching bicycles when I was in about 1st grade.
Just remember that a motorcyle goes a lot faster and mistakes in the shop can be much more disastrous.
Good luck!
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Jc000
Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Woo boy... just rode it (safely) in to work. So far it looks, sounds, and runs smoothly. There were a lot of blood sweat and tears that went into this minor repair, but it's over, I feel a lot better about it, and I feel like I got some good experience out of it as well.

Really couldn't have done it without the tips and tricks, and encouragement from you guys. Thanks for helping me get through this!

Jon
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JC,
Good job, glad you knocked it out. Be sure and double check the jam nuts on the adjusters and how much slack you have in the throttle on the handlebars. If you ever have to do it again, it will be a piece of cake.............Charlie
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Buellzebub
Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the beauty of Buell wrenching... each time you do it your speed increases.
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