| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
Whenever I have a big ride coming up (MB4, Sturgis, or in this case, Mid-Ohio) Something seems to go wrong. Bike: 2000 Cyclone I just changed the oil, filter, and tranny fluid last week. All fluids double checked yesterday, and are still fine. Also the primary chain was double checked, and I changed the spark plugs. Today I went out riding for a couple hours (despite bald tires) and a ticking from the heads seemed to be getting louder and louder. Sounded like it was coming from both heads (or possibly pushrods?). By the time I got home, I could hear the ticking over the D&D Exhaust. I opened the oil tank while it was idling, and it was still full and steaming, and I could hear oil being blown into it, so I'm assuming there's still oil flow. There was LOTS of white milky crap in my catch can (puke tank) from the engine breathers. I checked the oil pressure light, and it is working, but it never came on while riding. Engine felt hot, but not abnormally hot. Engine ran perfect. Now... the weird part: After I shut it down (after idling for 5 minutes) there was a VERY quiet boiling/bubbling/seeping sound coming from the engine. Almost like when you shut down a car with the AC running, you can hear the AC system equalizing. I could only hear it on the intake/pushrod side of the engine, not the primary side. And it continued consistently (still VERY quiet) for minutes on end. It also seemed to be coming from both cylinders. I would think that maybe somethings wrong with a pushrod, not letting oil flow, so the oil that was in there was boiling and causing a tick... but the noise seems to be consistant between both cylinders. Was the oil pump gear a problem on 2000 model bikes? I thought they fixed it for 2000. Could this be the problem? What are everyone's thoughts? I'm going to let it cool a bit and start it up and see what it sounds like. | ||
| Numb_nutz |
Possible you had a check valve in the rocker box blow. It would let the crank case vent straight thru. I have heard these go and make funny noises. If you oil pump wasn't pumping you would no it. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
After it cooled down, I just started it again, and it sounds just fine with no ticking at all. I've replaced all the rocker box gaskets in the front cylinder already this summer. (including the umbrella shaped one that I'm assuming is what you're talking about) I have not replaced the rear ones though. It really sounded like it was coming from both cylinders though | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest the intake manifold seals. That would explain the "both cylinders" source, and the fact that it doesn't do it when cold. Of course, I'm not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV, but that just jumped out at me (and it's easy to check). | ||
| Ocbueller |
All Buells have some lifter tick. Some more than others. Mine do it particularly when hot.It usually is not an issue. The haunting sounds you may be hearing while the bike is cooling may be the oil sumping into the engine from the oil tank. Also a non issue. Hopefully you don't have anything to be concerned about. SteveH | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The white milky crap in the catch can is water, right? Is there any possible way that water could have gotten into the oil? | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
i dont think that the 2000 m2 had the better oil pump drive gear i have a 2000 and i upgraded mine this spring and the one that i took out didnt look the same as the brass looking one that replaced it with, but as said you would know if there was an oil pump going out | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest the intake manifold seals. Interesting! Any way to test this? All Buells have some lifter tick. Some more than others. I understand, but this tick got substantially worse all day, and was noticeably louder than the usual lifter tick. Is there any possible way that water could have gotten into the oil? Negatory. The white crap is moisture... which is normally what I get out of my catch can, just today I seemed to get more than normal. i dont think that the 2000 m2 had the better oil pump drive gear Good to know! I'll keep an eye out for that little red light. What exactly will happen when that gear gives out? I think I answered them all. Thanks for the help so far guys. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
To test the manifold, start the engine and spray carb cleaner or something similar around the area - be thorough. If the idle changes, it's getting sucked in and you have a leak. The good news is that the solution is inexpensive in terms of time and money. It may only be one (of three, including the carb end), but that would explain the the fact that it seems to be coming from both jugs. | ||
| Xldevil |
They never changed the oil pump drive gear on tubers! The first bikes that came with that upgraded beryllium drive gear were the 2006 models. A breaking drive gear will not "warn" you by any sounds.It just breaks and that's it for your engine. Ralph (Message edited by xldevil on September 24, 2007) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
To test the manifold, start the engine and spray carb cleaner or something similar around the area - be thorough. I'm on it! (Message edited by mikef5000 on September 24, 2007) | ||
| Djkaplan |
I had the same noise coming from my M2. I think whats happening is the pistons stop on their downstroke pressurizing the crank. I don't believe this pressure has a straight shot to the breathers in the heads. It has to course its way up through the lifter galley and lifters on the way up through the pushrod tubes to the outlets in the heads. I think the noise you hear is the pressure equalizing through this path. That's my guess anyway. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Oh, and since my base gaskets are leaking, I can see pressure bubbling the oil at the bottom of the rear cylinder sometimes. This must be the same pressure leaving through the path of least resistance. | ||
| Mm128 |
What about the PLUGS????? Are they the SAME as the ones you took out??? It MAY or MAY NOT make a difference... but they could be hotter plugs...... Matt. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Yup, exact same plugs. Harley brand standard plugs from the dealership. Is there a better plug I could be running? OK! I tested the gaskets. If I spray a bit on either side going into the head, nothing happens. If I spray a lot (1 full second of continuous blasting) into the area, then the engine bogs a bit. I don't believe I'm spraying enough to get it into the intake, so I take it the seal between the carb and the manifold is bad? Would that cause ticking? I rode it long enough to get it hot today, and it didn't tick at all like yesterday. Intake seals should be easy enough, I might just go ahead and do them. Anything else I should look into while I've got it that far apart? I just replaced the gaskets between the air intake and the carb. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
From what you've said, the seal from the manifold into the head is leaking, especially since you've recently replaced the seal from the intake to the carb. The intermittent nature (bad yesterday, good today) and need for a larger blast would point to a smaller hole. I think you've found it! I'd be interested in confirmation - and pictures, of course. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Well, the only reason I replaced the gaskets between the intake and the carb is because I removed the intake all together to install my puke tank. (that phrase is growing on me). The gaskets looked fine, but I was in there, and new ones were cheap as hell. Anything I need to know before I go ahead with this job? Anybody know the torque specs? Thanks! | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
Manual specifies 6-10 ft-lbs for the intake manifold screws, 25-30 ft-lbs for the enricher bracket, and 30-33 ft-lbs for the tie bar. I'll PM you a copy of the page from the manual with details. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
You are too good to me.  It'll most likely be a project for Sunday morning. Then off to scrub in some new tires! | ||
| Jayvee |
If you can measure the torque on those lil' bas*ard screws, you're doing pretty good. If they only thing you changed was a new puke tank, dumb question, but the tank is vented to the atmosphere right? The "pressure equalizing" comment makes me wonder if it could be related somehow to the puke catch install. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Mike... The ticking noise is probably a leak at the exhaust primaries where they mate with the exhaust ports. It'll sound like a metallic 'tick' but it's actually an exhaust leak. Are the exhaust seals OK? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I don't have a clue if the exhaust seals are leaking or not. Wouldn't suprise me a bit, as it appears the header hasn't been off for years. I know what you mean by the exhaust tick, but I don't think that's what this is. If you can measure the torque on those lil' bas*ard screws, you're doing pretty good. I was out and took a look at them, you aren't kidding! I just hope my little Allen wrenches will fit in there! If they only thing you changed was a new puke tank, dumb question, but the tank is vented to the atmosphere right? It's actually vented back to the intake:   | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I replaced the one betweent the carb and the intake today, and took it for a spin. Seems like the noise is gone! The seal that came out looked just fine though, so I need to go get it nice and hot and make sure it's still good and quiet. It doesn't seem to bog anymore when I spray the carb cleaner in the area. |
