| Author | Message | ||
     Torquemonster |
2000 M2... Got the manual...reading repetitively...trying to get the front end to stiffen up. Nothing seems to be working. Im thinkin its the big nut behind the wrench (me) It seems that following the manual to achieve the desired results yields the opposite. Im no mechanic, but this shouldnt be THIS difficult. Anyone got the layman explanation for the solution to my quandry? I softened up the rear and bike wants to wheelie WITH EASE now. Im cool with it, but the front end feels waaaay too loose. | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
What do you mean by stiffen up? Is it the action of the front wheel when you hit a bump or dip or do you mean the steering head rotation? | ||
| Sparky |
I think he means the compression and rebound damping adjustments do not produce the desired results. If that is the case, he probably needs to give the tired forks the maintenance that's due including taking apart, flushing, inspecting/replacing the fork bushings, perhaps installing race springs, heavier fork oil, etc. It's a lot of work to go through these forks. That's why I'm OK to have the dealer do them and do it right even though I have the FSM. Hey, but I can replace the fork springs or shim them with PVC tube to get the right preload. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
I was pretty apprehensive about taking my M2 forks apart, but it really wasn't that bad. I was cupping tires and no amount of fiddling with the adjustments would help. Flush, new oil, reassembly, settings, and it made a world of difference for something so basic. Next time I'll install new springs while I'm in there. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thx all. I was referring to the rebound and compression of the forks. Bike only has 3666 miles (omen?), but was flipped rear over front at about 30-35 mph. Came down on the handlebars and my leg. Put her up for a month to change rockerbox gaskets and wait for parts that never came. Unfortunately, i couldnt start her up everyday, so she didnt want to kick off and purr like before. Rode her about 90 miles on Saturday and didnt notice anything out of the ordinary. handling actually felt better than before since I adjusted the preload on the shock the night before. And by the 3rd stop on the ride, she was firing back up and idling like nothing ever happened. I think Ill just save myself some intense headscratching and drop the dough to get it gone over by a professional. I apologize for posting a worthless thread. I knew I should have taken it to the shop in the first place. Somebody slap me. Thanks for trying to help me anyway, fellas. | ||
| Spiderman |
replace the fork oil with Scramin Eagle Racing fork oil... | ||
| Djkaplan |
The front spring rate is too low for a rider heavier than 160 lbs. I had the preload adjusters bottomed out and still had too much front sag (1" - 1.5" is the range). I had some metric stainless tubing laying around that was the same diameter as the stock pre-load spacers and cut them 5/8" longer than stock. I could then adjust to the the proper sag spec with the adjusters. I adjusted mine to 1 1/4". I filled the leg 4" from the top with Harley Type E. You can increase compression damping by using more fork oil - I believe you can go 3 1/4 from the top (double check the parameter!). The real solution is a higher rate spring, though. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Actually, using more fork oil does not increase compression damping but it does reduce the air space in the fork leg and that creates a "progressive air spring effect" that really helps avoid bottoming. That, overfilling fork oil, was part of the "trick" front suspension set-up back when I was racing RD 350 Yamahas in the 70s and 80s. We also experimented with different fork oil weights and that did affect compression and rebound damping. You are on the right track though. Try experimenting with spring preload using spacers, fork oil volume, and fork oil weight to get the suspension response you are looking for. One other thing you might want to try: If you cut a short length off the fork spring and then put in a spacer of the appropriate length, it effectively increases the spring rate(like Race-Tech springs). Good luck | ||
| Warlizard |
I added a fork brace to a 1200R and it made a big difference. Really firmed up the front and eliminated a lot of the flex. Maybe they make them for the M2? | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
The M2 comes with a fork brace ... since it did not come with inverted forks, the fork brace doubles as a fender mount .. | ||
| Djkaplan |
There was a factory brace offered for the M2 fork, but I doubt it really needed it. The fork on the M2 is probably the stiffest (structurally) conventional fork ever offered on a production motorcycle. I got great deal on a factory fork brace right here in the BadWeb classifieds...  I never noticed a difference on the street. It does look nice, though... |
