| Author | Message | ||
     Buellboiler |
I have read the horrors about the bearings in PM wheels going bad. Now let me ask a simple/silly question. Exactly how do you detect a bearing failure? I am assuming the rear is more likely to fail. Does the bike 'feel' different on curves or under acceleration? Do the bearings chirp or make a whroring sound? When the rear is lifted for service can you feel play? Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks! Boiler | ||
| Ratbuell |
You can feel play when lifted for service, and I have always been able to hear the whirring/buzzing sound when they're going out. I've also had them go right into a "clack-clack" noise if they get one bad spot in the rotation. I've never let any go long enough to have an effect on handling, though... | ||
| Buellistic |
Do not forget, "SEALED BEARINGS" can be repacked and should be IMHO at 25K !!! What really makes your rear wheel bearings on the belt side GO BAD is that you'll either are adjusting the drvce belt TOO TIGHT or allowing HARLEY-DAVIDSON technicians to also adjust it TOO TIGHT !!! Have 97,602.65 miles as of the last ride on my 1997 S3T and have not had to replace any wheel bearings yet ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Sparky |
What does one do when an otherwise good wheel bearing spins in the relatively soft alloy PM bore? The bike doesn't seem to exhibit any weird handling quirks, make noise or leak lube. I don't really know how long the wheel has been in this condition, but it may have been like this for the last two sets of bearings (approx 40k mi). So I'm wondering what would happen if I continue to do nothing except maybe monitor for leaks? Any recommended fixes? | ||
| Easy_rider |
Mine was "knocking" when I figured out I had a problem. I had a machine shop mill out material and then press in a sleeve. It's held up for about 8K so far without a problem. A guy who spent quite a bit of time on the track gave me the idea. Last I knew it was holding up well for him. The other side was slightly loose, but the shop used a Loctite adhesive that did the trick. You'll have to decide how loose you've got and react accordingly. | ||
| Oldog |
Boiler the bearings when turned in the fingers have a gritty feel or a click / clunk feel you dont have mush "play" at that point. the bearings can be removed from pm wheels through judicious heating of the hub face with a propane tourch, the bearings are then ruined to be sure, re assembley can be done a number of ways pressing is the best way, you should avoid beating on them. IMPORTANT, think through the job and have what you need on hand before starting |
