| Author | Message | ||
     M2statz |
I am getting a LOT of oil from the fill plug under the seat on long rides. Two rides of about 200 miles each resulted in the loss of about a quart. As far as I know the plug was in tight. Any help and/or suggestions? Thanks Michael | ||
| Aldaytona |
I suspect that will stop if you check/add oil in tank AFTER riding instead of before riding. Oil tank looks way low when cold. I believe almost every tuber owner has made that mistake. Don't ask ME how I know.  | ||
| M2statz |
I usually add oil if needed after a long ride. The M2 hasn't needed much if any oil except the last long rides when it made a mess of my tail section. Thanks Michael | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Michael, I keep the oil level right at the very edge of the dipstick and if it's got any more than that it'll spit at me. I, also, run the FL1A so my oil quantity is probably not far off. | ||
| M2statz |
Doing some further investigating of my own last night and shouldn't the excess or over flow be routed thru the overflow hose? Is it possible that it could be plugged? Or forcing out some place else? No leaks when cold or not in use. Thanks Michael | ||
| Djkaplan |
"I keep the oil level right at the very edge of the dipstick and if it's got any more than that it'll spit at me. I, also, run the FL1A so my oil quantity is probably not far off." Sounds counter-intuitive, but that's good advice. I noticed my oil consumption practically goes to zero (that's right... nothing) if I keep the oil level very low in the oil tank. I also use a larger filter to keep the overall oil capacity about the same (I use the long factory filter which adds about 1/2 a quart to the internal capacity). I mostly get water and just a tiny amount of spooge in my catch can this way. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"I believe almost every tuber owner has made that mistake." I sure did. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I found the same to be true on my X1. I could top it off after teach ride to the top line and then it would eat 3 quarts per 5000 mile oil change. or I could allow it to hover just above the bottom line and it will pretty much stay there unless I flog it on a hot day. | ||
| M2statz |
My concern is why now? I've got 3250 miles for the season so far and now it shows up. What changed? Thanks Michael | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The motor's getting broken in! | ||
| Djkaplan |
You say the oil is leaking from the filler plug under the seat? What's wrong with the plug? Is the rubber torn or something? Even if there was no filler plug there, oil shouldn't be making it that high in the oil tank. What orifice is the oil that's messing up your tail section coming from? | ||
| M2statz |
Ok, upon further investigation I have found the the oil is actually coming from the breather kit the the PO has mounted under the seat and tail section NOT the fill plug. This is an air filter right? So how can oil be coming out and why? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Is there a catch-can there or just a little filter on the end of a hose? You can't just vent the engine with a hose and filter without expecting the condensed water vapor and emulsified oil/water to go somewhere. Look in the breather section in the KV for hundreds of ways to address this issue. You could always just vent the spooge to the ground, but that's low class and trashy. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Here... be cool like Mike! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/291947.html?1184343750 | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Djk has your problem identified -- consider yourself spooged  On the 5-hammer scale you're looking at a -2. Super easy fix! | ||
| M2statz |
This isn't just a little spooge...and oil I am seeing a LOT of oil. My mechanical knowledge is minimal but I don't think this right. | ||
| Djkaplan |
It may be your crank seal going bad (not a huge deal). When the seal goes bad it allows engine oil to enter the primary which makes the oil level in the transmission too high. When this happens, its froths up and is spewed from the transmission vent line which runs up underneath the tailpiece. Some people run a small filter on this vent line to keep water from getting into it when they wash the bike. Check to see where your leaking line originates from. If it's near the starter on top of the engine case, it's the trans vent. Get back to us and let us know. It's not a huge deal to change the crank seal yourself, but you need a manual and a few special tools (along with a new seal). (Message edited by djkaplan on July 18, 2007) | ||
| M2statz |
Thank you DJ!! Is it safe to assume that use of the M2 is not advised until the issue is resolved? I have a manual on the way from Ratbuell. What are the tools? Michael | ||
| Djkaplan |
Make sure you know what the problem is first. Is the bike spewing from the transmission vent line or the breather lines coming from the cylinder heads (the hollow bolts that hold the carb bracket onto the heads)? | ||
| M2statz |
OK. Will follow hose to source and let you know. Thanks again. Michael | ||
| M2statz |
The hose has a T at midway one starts at what I think is close to the intake(Forcewinder) and the other starts on the tranny top. Make sure you know what the problem is first. Is the bike spewing from the transmission vent line or the breather lines coming from the cylinder heads (the hollow bolts that hold the carb bracket onto the heads)? Seems like both at this point. My next step is to remove hose from one and then the other to see which is producing the "spooge"(love that word) and/or oil. Correct? Thanks!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yup. Sounds like somebody plumbed it together. I'm not sure that is such a hot idea, as it seems likely that airbox spooge now becomes transmission fluid spooge... I would rather burn it up in the intakes then dump it in my tranny. The crank seal is a very common failure. Put the crank nut back on when you reassemble to the new updated tighter torque setting (much higher then what is in the manual). There is a special tool to set the seal depth, but you can carefully carve up a hardwood dowel and do a good job as well. Don't just jam it in all the way though, or it will fail again in 4000 miles. Or so I hear ;) Look for nicks / bubbles in the stator wiring while you are in there, and make sure your stator bell magnets are still glued up nice and tight. You are also at that point only a few bolts from having the whole transmission out if you want to inspect it and look at the guts of your 5th gear drive assembly (another problem area on tubers if you follow the manual setting the belt tension instead of running it scary loose). I think you also need a "really big" pair of snap ring pliars as well, though you could grind down an expendable set of needle nose pliars in a pinch. | ||
| M2statz |
This why this web site frigging rocks!! Here, I have very little if any knowledge of my M2 powerhouse but you guys are willing to share your knowledge and insite that somebody shared with you or you learned the hard way. Thanks guys!  You guys rock! | ||
| M2statz |
Will finally have time to see where the spooge(love that word) is originating from tonite. I will however be on vacation from Sunday to the following Monday and the wife prefers that I leave the lap top at home. So may be I can sneak it along. Thanks!! Michael |
