| Author | Message | ||
     Nocompromise |
I'll have more details later, but I'm about to go to the HD dealer to get some parts. I will have both engine covers off (so far, I only have the primary off) - anything I should do while I have them off? I'm going to replace the primary chain tensioner. Should I replace the pinion gear? Anything else? Thanks!! | ||
| Brokeneck |
Please let me know how this goes -- the chain tensioner is my next project for my 2000 S3 -- | ||
| Nocompromise |
Also, in the service manual, it says to remove the push rods, tappets and ignition system. Do i really need to do all this before removing the gearcase cover? I read that you need to remove the rockerbox cover. I am new to engine stuff, so please bear with me. I'd prefer to do the minimum necessary to get the cover off. | ||
| Buellistic |
Nocompromise: Rear cylinder TDC on compression stroke, then remove complete rocker arm covers ... Front cylinder on TDC on compression stroke then remove the complete rocker arm covers ... Now you can remove the cam gear cover ... Be sure to replace the oil pump drive gear with DRIVE GEAR,oil pump PN 26391-06 ... You must TORQUE properly or you run the possibility of distorting the alumiiium covers ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Ratbuell |
YES. You do need to remove the tension from the cams in order to remove/replace the cam cover. I tried for hours to pound the cover back on my (loaded) cams...removed the rocker boxes (*again*, at that point...at 2 in the morning): cover slipped right on. The valvespring tension thru the pushrods pushes the cams down. When you remove the outer cover's bushings, the cams flex down and don't line up with where the cover needs to be. Rocker boxes don't leak? 3 choices. 1) pull them anyway, remove pushrods, reinstall with new gaskets and hope they're right - the design sucks. 2) same, but reinstall with XB rocker boxes and PCV setup - slightly better, one layer of gaskets eliminated. 3) cut the existing pushrod tubes and pushrods with bolt cutters (NOT a cutoff wheel, it makes shrapnel) and reinstall with collapsible pushrods and pushrod tubes (no rockerbox removal required). Saves time later, too, anytime you have to do gearbox cover work or cam work or lifter replacement or pushrod o-ring seal replacement.... Lessee...if you have the primary cover off, put in the updated shifter pawl while you're in there. If you have the tools, pull the clutch pack apart and replace the rivet plate with 2 steels and a friction plate, before the rivet plate explodes (they like to do that). New shifter shaft bushing and seal are also cheap and prevent re-removing the cover because it's puking your primary fluid (ask me how I know that one,grr). Tip: install the new bushing only, reinstall the primary cover, and once it's in place, press in the new (outer) oil seal right before you put your shifter arm back on. For the cam side, you can put in the bronze oil pump drive gear. Pinion gear is up to you depending on wear on the teeth. If pinion gear, then cams. Cams...well, they're right there and performance cams are plentiful in number and specification (see www.nrhsperformance.com for details, their downloadable catalog has great stuff in it). Toss in a set of the Lightning (thunderstorm) cams and you'll see a huge improvement. I did. Or...N2, N4, S/E 536, S/E 551...you name it. | ||
| Nocompromise |
How do I tell TDC on each cylinder? Sorry for all the noob questions. I've never done any engine work before. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the response Ratbuell - my last message was before I read your post. I just bought this S1, and it already has 1250 kit, XB heads, 536 cams, HSR42. It doesn't look like it has collapsible pushrod covers (dang it!) - I assume I would be able to tell? I looked at the pictures on NRHS, and my pushrod covers look just like stock (so I assume they are stock). I guess I'm going to go for option 2 - remove the rockerbox, replace the gasket and hope for the best. Just to clarify - rockerbox removal also requires pushrod, ignition system and tappet removal? | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you're only removing the pushrods to unload the cams, you only have to remove the following: Up top: rocker box top, middle, lower (which includes rocker arms) Down below: 2 rivets, cosmetic covers, cam sensor/pickup cam cover If your fingers are good you can remove the cams and push the tappets back up out of the way when you reinsert the cams. If you aren't pulling cams...don't worry. If you are replacing pinion / oil pump drive, only remove cam #2 (counting left to right, or rear cylinder intake cam) AFTER you line up the timing marks. Replace OP drive, pinion gear, use red loctite and torque pinion nut to - don't quote me, check the service manual - 60 lb-ft. Reinstall all with new gaskets. You don't have to pull the tappets unless you want to. You don't have to remove the pushrods themselves, unless you want to. All you have to do is unload the valvespring tension from them. | ||
| Firemanjim |
No Comp---if you are just removing a rocker box there is no need to do anything with tappets or ignition.Only need to remove pushrods and ignition if you are removing cam case cover,tappets stay | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the help guys! I also remembered the Tech Tips section on the NRHS website. I'll try to get myself up to speed before I dig in tomorrow. I guess the Buell manual caters to experienced mechanics because it doesn't indicate which steps are optional for certain procedures. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Look for the upgraded shifter pawl and get the new gaskets, not the paper ones. Joe | ||
| Nocompromise |
Ok, I hit my first snag. I had to put the primary cover back on to get it in gear (didn't bolt it on, just hooked up the clutch and shifter again). Rotated wheel until rear is at TDC. Took off rear rocker box. I can't get the front rocker box cover off (I have XB heads). The front left corner of the rocker box cover is wedged against the front motor mount. I've tried rotating it and torquing on it about every way I can think of, and I can't get it to move out of the corner. I haven't heard of anyone removing the motor mount for this operation, so I must be missing something obvious. Here are a couple pictures showing the wedged rocker box cover.   | ||
| Hughlysses |
Kevin, I'm not sure about the XB heads, but with the stock heads the front rocker cover will definitely squeeze out. It is definitely a TIGHT fit and you have to play with it for a while, but it'll finally come out. I'd bet the XB rocker covers are the same way. Try lifting the cover at the front of the engine first. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the advice. That front left corner just will not budge. I took a break before I got too frustrated. I'm afraid to wedge a screwdriver or something in there because I don't want to score the surface. Is that something to be worried about? I know leaks are very common, but I don't know the common locations. I'll try lifting the front first. *Rolls up sleeves, spits in palms, rubs them together, and marches towards garage* | ||
| Bookyoh |
I had a similar problem when I did my M2 a few years ago. I loosened the front motor mount bolts and then it was easy to wedge it to get some room. There is a very specific process and use of loctite as I recall when you torque the bolts. I did take off a little of the lower rocker cover and the mount itself before reinstallng to give clearance. Mark | ||
| Nocompromise |
*Shuffles back to computer with tread marks all over face and body* The bike kicked my ass again. Grrrr... If you look at the picture you can see the problem - the rocker box cover has to come straight (or just *slightly* angled) up to clear the 4 bolts in the corners underneath. I tried prying the cover up from the front first, and I made a slight bit of progress (and snapped a little off the head of my screwdriver). It comes up a little, but it needs to come up about double that distance in order to clear the head of that bolt. The angle of the motor mount (visible in the picture) prevents it from coming up any further. I'm wondering if I should try to take a dremel to either the rocker box cover or the motor mount to give myself a little room. I know it'll be ugly, but i'm at a loss. I'm thinking either take a little off the motor mount in the red area or a little off the rocker box cover in the blue area (probably both if I have to do it before I get the cover off). How hard is it to remount the motor mount if I take that off?  (Message edited by nocompromise on July 15, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
Will it not move back ward slightly? I would be cautious about whittling on that front motor mount. | ||
| Nocompromise |
No, it won't move backwards. Believe me, I've tried about everything under the sun. I guess my only option if I'm not going to dremel is to take off the motor mount and reinstall it after I have the rocker box back on. I'm surprised that more people haven't had this issue with XB heads. | ||
| Knickers |
You may have to remove the mount if that's how the previous owner installed them. When I put the XB covers on my S3 I went to town on the cover with a dremel so I could slide it on without removing the mount. Its been a couple years, but if I recall I removed a bunch of material from the inside around the allen bolt that is right under the area giving you trouble. That will allow the cover to slide back a bit and clear the mount. Good luck. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for the info Knickers. I think that's exactly what I need to do. I'm going to remove the mount, and I'm thinking that I'll upgrade to a NRHS billet mount as long as it's off. Does anyone know if the billet mount also has this clearance problem? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I too had to remove a bit of the cover when I did my M2. You can remove quite a bit from the top side. Go easy on the gasket face however. | ||
| Fullauto |
I just went and had a look at my NRHS billet mount on my X1 and it doesn't angle towards the rocker covers like yours does. It should come off easily as the billet mount is vertical. Good luck, ken | ||
| Shadowracerx1 |
I had to shave some material from the xb rocker covers for the same reason. I avoided removing material from the mount. Didn't seem like a good idea... |
