| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
Getting ready to do isolators, all 3 Should I replace the tie bars? Drive belt? At 19k miles, I wanna do the wheel bearings too. Should I do the swingarm and steering neck bearings too, "while I am at it"? I think I can handle the isos. Are the wheel bearings tough to do? Gonna check carb jetting etc., new seals. Should I do exhaust seals and studs? | ||
| Iamike |
I used a Harbor Freight (or JC Whitney, I can't remember which) slide hammer to pull mine. It came with a lip adaptor that you can hook on the inside of the bearing to work it out. Once it starts moving it comes out pretty quick. Just work around to keep it even as it comes out. Next time I change mine I'm going to buy the bearing installer tool. I used a socket (that was hard to keep on the new bearing) to tap the new one in place. Make sure you get a quality bearing like Timken. If you get them from a bearing supply shop they are much cheaper than the dealer. I replaced my belt at 50,000mi. It looked fine. You should replace your intake seals. They have had problems and if you don't catch it soon enough it could cause piston problems. I still have my original exhaust studs but did replace the gaskets when I had the header off. I would probably replace them next time. Check your regulator ground and battery cables at the starter and chassis connections. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Al of American Sport Bike has convinced me to not try the wheel bearings. The years [1999] are more of a concern than the miles. | ||
| Bad_karma |
John The belt would be on my list for your maintenance. I got about 22,000 out of the one on the S1 and I ride it hard. I replaced the one on the S3 at 25,000 and it already had cracking at the base of the teeth. My 2 cents. Joe | ||
| Silas_clone |
I just got back from a little ride. I am gonna try the XB belt. What I meant to say about the wheel bearings is that Al said to have them installed using an arbor press, rather than use my typical "farmers methodology". Also, I am concerned with the years on the rubber parts. Whatta cool little bike...still love it. | ||
| Oldog |
Silas: You can heat the face of the hub with a propane torch and when the hub gets hot enough the bearings drop out. watch the finish if colored YMMV [ I have PM wheels ] when you go to replace the bearings, get Al's good stuff, I used the old bearings as push blocks ( after grinding the outside to fall in and out of the wheels } the axles with washers can be used as pushing tools the front one can be done with a 3/4" bolt the rear use the axle. and the old bearings / washers spacers etc I had it rigged up to set and start the new bearings straight. one other thought If the cast alloy wheels have one shouldered bearing bore set that bearing first place the spacer in the wheel and push in the other one. the CA and marches wheels are said to have aluminum spacers measure them when you take them out incase you have issues with them later, be careful of the seating pressure on the non shouldered bearing I understand that folks have had spacer issues ( check W Al ) I would change the belt and rear swing arm bearings, the head stock bearing races can be removed from the chassis with a punch ( as can the arm ) the seals on the arm are a pita as they are thin ( depth wise ) and easy to bend. take a file or a sharp sturdy knife and cut a chamfer on each side of the swing arm at the mouth of the bearing bore to ease starting and "press" rather than drive them in. read through the procedure a couple of times ( I should have ) its a good feeling to know that all is well. | ||
| Bookyoh |
I will be doing the 20,000 mile service on my 2000 M2 when I replace the rear tire. My plans are: 1. Inspect, grease, and adjust steering head and swing arm bearings. They looked good at 10,000 and hopefully will be good at 20,000. 2. Change fork oil 3. Inspect drive belt and then decide. If it looks good, I will leave it alone. 4. Rear isolators - Inspect. I replaced them with upgraded ones at 10,000. 5. Front isolator - Inspect and then decide. 6. Wheel bearings - I had a front one go out so they were replaced at about 15,000 miles. If the fronts and rears feel smooth I will leave them alone. Mark | ||
| Blake |
If the swingarm bearing pass the swingarm wiggle test, I sure wouldn't go to the trouble of messing with them. Realize that the swingarm bearing are very lightly loaded and move very slowly. Just not much to cause a problem and it a problem ever does develop, it isn't likely to put you on the side of the road, just indicate that you need new bearings. But I'm lazy. |
