| Author | Message | ||
     Sss99x1 |
Ive ridden many bikes over the years but have ridden HD touring bikes for the last 5 years. Ive been looking for something different for a few months (maybe its a midlife crisis who knows). I opted for a 99 X1. It was in my budget, 10500 miles, has Forcewinder, Full Force racing exhaust, race ECM, chain drive to convert to a 200 tire, no leaks anywhere and has been maintained. Took it out for its maiden voyage with me last night and my Emoticon says it all as i was smiling from ear to ear. A little intimidating at first but a lot of fun. Definetly needs tuned better as it coughs and pops under 2500 RPM. Also rode it to work today. Gets lots of strange looks as it looks like a crotch rocket but sounds like one mean mofo. | ||
| 5liter |
Welcome to the club. I get a lot of double takes also and "what the hell was that" looks. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Welcome to the club, mine is a '99 also with basically the setup you have except for the race exhaust. Do you know if the previous owner had the throttle reset? Might be the culprit for the backfiring and a very simple fix. Mine now has almost 22k and (knock on wood)no major problems. Enjoy! | ||
| Sss99x1 |
Can you explain the throttle reset? I was going to take to deler and have them hook it up to their computer. I usually do my own maintainance on my other bikes, but i dont have the computer and from what i understand there is no power commander available. Any help you can give on the throttle reset would be great. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
i have a 2000 x1 with the force pipe and a race ecm. previous owner said it was dyno tuned for max power. it too sputters a bit below 2000 rpm, my opinion is that it is the force pipe, like a two stroke the force tends to make power up high and so you sacrifice something else. my 2 cents | ||
| Essthreetee |
I know that my bike does not like to be under 3k...but with that said he is referring to a TPS reset (I believe). TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) can be done at the dealer and is supposed to be done when ever the ECM is changed. I believe that it is good to reset it every so often anyhow (I don't kow how often though). I purchased the VSDTS software and reset mine at home...it can be done very quickly by someone that knows what they are doing. Good luck and enjoy the madness... | ||
| Kyrocket |
Essthreetee, You are correct by what I was trying to relay in the TPS. Enlighten me as to what needs to be done / bought or whatever to reset the TPS at home. What kind of moola are we talking? I am comfortable in doing my own wrenching and am hesitant to let the dealership work on my steed, it's also been a few years since my reset. Just wondering. Thanks Michael | ||
| 5liter |
Kyrocket: Get this:http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9305.html You can then do your thing at home. | ||
| 5liter |
Make sure you get the Keyspan doohikee. It'll make it easier. | ||
| Rellim51 |
My bike has the Force pipe and Race ECM and it will cruise below 3K but the slightest hill or acceleration will cause it to stumble and studder. That is just the nature of the beast....or so I've been told. | ||
| Sss99x1 |
As Im new to riding a Buell and finding that it runs much better at or above 3k, I ask this. Im used to riding a big twin that i can cruise on at about 2500 RPMs. Is it normal to keep a Buell at or above this 3K? I know you never want to lug a bike and its probably better to keep the RPMs higher than lower, but is this the RPM level you should be riding at? It sounds as if this is too many RPMs for the motor to be running at constantly, but it may just be because of the Force exhaust and the loudness of the exhaust. I just want to make sure Im not crusing around at a much higher RPM level than i should be. Also, last night after my trip home, i noticed a small leak from primary drain plug. Is there a gasket or o-ring on the plug that you should basically replace everytime you do a change? I know that is the case on the big twins and i do it everytime. It is a very small o-ring on the big twins and im guessing by looking at the size of the plug that this is a different sized o-ring. I have my owners manual on the way as i bought one from Lake Shore HD yesterday for $46 but i dont have it yet and im trying to learn as much as i can. I fell like Im starting all over again!!!! | ||
| Kyrocket |
Thanks for the info. guys I'm checking it out now. As for the RPM's mine is also a little sluggish down in the low range but seems to be happiest right around 4 grand. IMHO as I understand it the force pipe is MUCH louder than the V&H which might be the reason you think it is too high. When I'm on the interstate (which is seldom) I generally cruise between 3000 and 3500 and it seems to like it. Hope that helps. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Sss - yes, there is an O-ring. I also replace every time, on my FLHP and on both my Buells. Welcome, from another bagger convert! For the RPM question, these motors are designed to cruise a bit higher than our big twins. Smaller displacement = less low end torque (relatively speaking). I cruise all day at around 4k on my S1W; my S2 cruises on the highway around 3400. When burning up the back roads, I'm surprised if I look down and I'm below 4k. 4k-6k seems to be the sweet spot. Of course, the evo in my FLHP - with 10.5:1 compression, ported heads, singlefire ign, and Crane cam - likes to run at about the same RPM range now. Guess that's what I get for having a 90rwhp 80" bagger turd, LOL. As to your lower RPM cough. Could be "early DDFI Personality", as in it wasn't the most refined set of software. Could be TPS reset. Could be the Force exhaust, which I've heard works best at high RPM. Could be a combination of all three. I'd find a dealer nearby that has a rep for being able to work on the Buells, and have it checked over once. Have them make it right, then keep it right on your own as time goes by. At any rate, don't be afraid to spin 'er up and lean 'er over! | ||
| Sss99x1 |
Rat, thanks brother and yes i am a convert. I come home tonight ready to take her our for a few hours. Figure a good wash is in order befor i do. Hop on and drive away. Pull out of my neighborhood. Obviously never got out of 2nd gear. Get on road where i can open it up some, shift to second, try to shift to 3rd, wont go. Try a couple times and bike wont go to 3rd or higher. I limp it home in 2nd. Look at primary and drain. It looked fine. Refill wit some 20W50 semi syn, still no go. Any thoughts. I know nothing about trans and i dont have my book yet to adjust clutch. Im hoping thats all it is. It'll be going to dealer anyway for FI tuning guess i will have to have them look at tranny as well. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Clutch is easy. Loosen the cable all the way at the adjuster. Pull the derby cover. Turn the center screw in all the way (lightly); back out 1/4 turn, reinstall the cover. Adjust cable for freeplay just like a big twin. Also check your primary adjustment - the small door above the shifter (2 allen screws). Should be between 1/4 and 1/2 inch play hot; I think 1/2 and 3/4 cold. Adjuster bolt is directly underneath, loosen the locknut and adjust with an allen wrench, lock with the locknut. If that (those) doesn't (don't) do it, let me know and I'll dig a bit deeper into the book - all the above was from memory. Hope it helps! | ||
| Blake |
Definitely keep the revs up above 2500; when cruising that is a bare minimum to avoid lots of problems. If you are looking to be able to roll on the throttle, I'd keep it up above 3000 at least. | ||
| Blake |
And welcome to the Old School on BadWeB. Sounds like y'all will add a lot to our little group here. I'm still not sure about that fuel injection stuff though.  | ||
| Jc000 |
Definitely keep the revs up above 2500; when cruising that is a bare minimum to avoid lots of problems. If you are looking to be able to roll on the throttle, I'd keep it up above 3000 at least. Hey Blake, does that hold true for carb'ed bikes like the M2 as well?} | ||
| Crashbuell |
Shoot, my bike's still carbureted, and it coughs at anything below 3 grand. Wasn't born that way, but like Ratbuell said, these bike were designed to cruise a little higher. I think that I prefer a bike with a snottier, antisocial personality and that is why the Buells appeal to me so much!  | ||
| Bigdaddy |
I think Blake's out earning a living or something  Carb'ed M2's live above 3K. Other than idle/warm-up that's where they need to be. G2 | ||
| Blake |
Hey Greg! Really great to see you back contributing on the BadWeB. JC, My Cyclone will cruise fine as far as the engine is concerned at 2500, but below that the primary drive gets too herky jerky. My sense is that it isn't very good for the engine or the bike in general so I try to keep the revs where they are nice and smooth. But yeah, for very light throttle, the low revs do fine on my Cyclone. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
",,,,,contributing,,," That's a stretch, but I appreciate it. G2 | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Thanks guys, just read all I needed to know about the TPS and related issues. Its great to get answers to the questions I have from people who actually know a thing or two! Welcome Sss! As you can see, these are good people here. I have an 02 X1 with some of the problems you mentioned. Well it wont have em long! Ride hard, be safe........Mattu  | ||
| Oldog |
Pull out of my neighborhood. Obviously never got out of 2nd gear. Get on road where i can open it up some, shift to second, try to shift to 3rd, wont go. Try a couple times and bike wont go to 3rd or higher. shift drum circlip.........} | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That's odd. I have a "daytona boss" exhaust and a race computer on mine but have no problem running it at 2000 in top gear. I'm not saying to lug the engine or anything but on a little back road going 40, my bike gives me no trouble at all. | ||
| Noyacant |
Although I've rowed my new to me '02 X1 through all the gears just to say so, I've yet to really get it out of third on the back roads around my place. Been dragging my feet on the trip to DMV hell so it's currently illegal. Probably tomorrow or Wed since my gf needs to reg her farm truck bought at the same time. Killing two birds... Back to the ill tempered low rpm behavior of these bikes. Although I've yet to get this thing up to full oper temp, it does seem cranky in the lower revs. Cold blooded even after there's enough heat in the rear rocker box to be uncomfortable to touch. It seems that our common exh and a/c mods are leaning these things out even more than their already lean factory state of tune. My old big twin was substantially more radical and never exhibited any foul temperament like this glorified Sportster motor does. I attribute it to my spot-on carb tuning. Now a question for the experienced among us; Will the 'Race ECM' also alter the a/f ratio or just the timing curve and rev limit? Unless this thing straightens up once it's got a little heat in it, I won't be satisfied with the drive-ability issues it's exhibiting. It was necessary to keep the revs up with my big twin due to the radical cams and hi comp but it never snorted and carried on like the Buell. | ||
| Sss99x1 |
Update. Definetly something gone bad with tranmission. I looked at it but dont have the knowledge to fix a transmission. So its sittin at the dealer. Dropped it off last Friday. I dont expect to get it back for a couple weeks. I also have them seeing if they can tune the fuel injection on it better for the mods that have been done to it. I will update as this progresses. | ||
| Noyacant |
Bummer regarding the trans glitch. Hope it don't cost ya up the yinyan. | ||
| Sss99x1 |
Good news. Called dealer Friday and picked it up yesterday. All it was was primary tensioner busted into about 10 pcs and a pc had lodged into a spot that would not allow shifting. As far as tuning the guy who worked on it (also a Buell rider) said he has never been able to get one with my setup to run well. He recomended putting race ECM back in it, getting rid of Force exhaust and going to a Supertrapp. May head this way aft3er discussing with other but Supertrapp pipe wasnt cheap. Back on the road again. |
