| Author | Message | ||
     Dwardo |
Thanks for the information on airbox mods. I took mine apart to change to a K&N filter and there was remarkably little spooge in there. I was thinking that rather than go the whole hog, why not drill some large holes in the air filter box and then shorten the snorkel so that doesn't extend to the box. The advantage would be (1) no need to re-do the breather hoses (2) if there is any tuning accomplished by the tube it might retain some of it, (3) maybe less noise, and (4) less chance of a screw getting sucked in. BTW, is it normal to have a noticeable drop in power around 4000 rpm with fairly large throttle opening? Is that the "sag" everyone is talking about? | ||
| Djkaplan |
"BTW, is it normal to have a noticeable drop in power around 4000 rpm with fairly large throttle opening?" I don't have that dip in the powerband on my stock cammed and rejetted 2000 M2. It may have been there when the bike was totally stock, but after the rejet, it's not something I ever noticed. | ||
| Sparky |
There's no free lunch. If I understand the design of the Helmholtz Resonator airbox, the mods you are describing would most likely: 1) negate the out-of-phase soundwaves generated by the two small holes in the snorkle, thus increase noise, 2) defeat any low-end power increases by shortening the snorkle. But a short snorkle (shnorkle?) may get you a power improvement at the top end which would be more effective if you had the Lightning cams. | ||
| Aesquire |
I believe, ( some one who knows please correct me ) that the Helmholtz tube is designed to reduce noise at the EPA test RPM. I'm sure tuning was also considered. 3400? I did notice that the dip in my torque curve smoothed out when I made the Airbox mod of removing tube & doghouse. A slip on muffler also smooths the curve, both seem best. For the filter, I use the stock bolts w/locktite. The "Bracket" I use was made in a buddy's armor shop, in about 5 minutes, It's 14 ga. stainless, but anything stiff & not especially flammable would work. Easy. For the vents, I use a Sportster banjo bolt on the rear cyl. & simply run the front hose out through the existing hole in the Breadbox, which also seals the hole. Routing the hose has pages of opinion in the KV. Locktite & prudence reduce the chances of loose screw ingestion, but I've walked beside my Cyclone as it danced backwards on the side stand too. Some like to remove the stock filter & the "doghouse" the air filter lives in. Use milk bottle caps etc. to seal the holes in the Helmholtz tube, then clamp a conical K&N filter on the tube. Like running a forcewinder in the stock Breadbox. The Idea was to preserve the stock torque characteristics while increasing airflow.Check the knowledge vault, But I don't recall a Photo. If someone has a picture, I'd like to see it too. I don't recall the exact details. Either setup should flow very nice up through big inch engine mods. | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" an running a modified OEM "AIR BOX" ... If you want "INFO" HOW TO or pictures, feel free to ask ... Ljenne73c@verizon.net In BUELLing LaFayette |
