| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
So, we're working on an apartment about 40 miles from home. She takes the truck so she can run around and do some errands while I'm working...I take the S2. Get to a stoplight, smell burning synthetic oil. Ruh-roh, raggy... The primary gasket is PISSING fluid. In the time it took the light to change, I had a puddle the size of a dollar bill. Get to the apartment, realize I still have to get home after working there all day. Find some *painters caulk* of all things (not my house, no garage, nothing even resembling RTV or anything even slightly mechanical-sealer in nature), give the front of the gasket area a schmear while the cases are still warm enough to help it cure, and ride it home at the end of the day. IT DIDN'T LEAK A DROP. (And no, it wasn't empty...). The guys at work will be *so* proud, knowing I used construction caulk to seal a primary gasket.... So, now the primary is off. I plan on getting the updated tensioner shoe and maybe the updated shifter pawl if I feel like messing with the clutch locknut. Chain looks good, no shifting issues at all, the only reason it's apart is the leak. Anything else I should take care of while I'm in there? It's all in spec, but while my hands are greasy I may as well do the "common" upgrades, right? | ||
| Onahog |
Check ur front sprocket nut...Sometimes they loosen off over time..HB | ||
| Buell82 |
I am always a big fan of working on the clutch when its right there in front of me. If you want to take the time, consider inspecting your clutch. Look for anything out of the norm. Also make sure that your double riveted spring plate in the middle of your packing is still in good shape. I just worked on a friends bike where that spring plate came apart and all the little springy bits of metal went all over inside his clutch, chewing it all to bits...Worst case is if nothing is wrong inside your clutch packing your down $7.00 for a new snap ring from your Harley dealer. Oh and one last thing. Take a look at your starter bolts. Make sure they are still on there tight. Maybe consider changing that gasket against the starter? I just did that on my bike when I had my primary open. $10 for a new gasket and that much more peace of mind. Mike | ||
| Oldog |
Remove the spring plate and replace with 2 steel 1 fiber. | ||
| Zenbiker |
Oldog, what do you mean by "2 steel 1 Fiber"? | ||
| Buell82 |
Oh yeah...good point Oldog. I forgot to mention that. In your clutch packing you have fiber plates and steel plates all in alternating order. You can remove that spring plate, but you have to replace that void with one more fiber plate and two steel plates. This will give you a little more "bite" in your clutch packing. The purpose for that spring plate is to allow for a smoother clutch engagment. Mike | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well...the PO had changed the spring plate already but hadn't updated the tensioner. So....all is done now, took it for a spin, no problems, and it seems to run MUCH cooler with the lower fairings left hanging in the garage for summer. Now, all I need is an oil cooler....and a steering stabilizer....<sigh> | ||
| Bad_karma |
Joe Check out an oil cooler off a XB. I'm installing one on my S1 now. Just fabricating a few brackets. You will need a sandwich adapter for the oil filter. I like it better than my jaggs cooler because it is better protected and if you get the oil lines from the XB they are braided. Joe | ||
| Ratbuell |
I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet. I have a real estate issue now - no place to put it. Banke frame brace, factory fairings, and soon to come a steering stabilizer. 10lbs of junk in a 5lb bag, LOL. I do like the XB setup though, since with the scoop you can mount it "sideways"... Curious why you didn't just tap into the oil line to the oil tank though...as opposed to the filter adaptor? | ||
| Oldog |
The feed line to the pump should have only the smallest of restrictions, as its a gravity feed to the pump from the bag Puting the back pressure of the cooler in the return line may cause oil to back up in the engine, and the cooler IMO will be less effective cooling the oil [by] going to the bag VS going to the engine, The hose going to the filter mount is the pump out put. Putting the sandwhich in behind the filter forces the oil thru the cooler, before it enters the engine which should be most effective. I have the jagg cooler, and would like to do the XB cooler and scoop as well as I think that It probably works better. (Message edited by OlDog on June 01, 2007) | ||
| Bad_karma |
Joe, What oldog said. Plus I want good access to cooler air. Joe | ||
| Ratbuell |
So, installing it between pump and filter would also be OK? I'm trying to remember where the instructions had me tap in on my FLHP, I'd swear it was a tank line...but your points all make perfect sense so maybe it is the pump line they had me tap into. I'm just trying to have the fewest "pieces" of stuff hanging around the front of my bike. It's already pretty damned full up there, but pulling the lowers off made a BIG difference in the now-summer weather! Now, if I could just remember where I put the rest of my header wrap.... | ||
| Bad_karma |
Joe I understand the want to keep it simple. But this line minimizes the oil lines. Joe |
