| Author | Message | ||
     Nukeblue |
after riding the other day, i found my rear wheel, caliper, swing arm, etc all covered in oil. i was beating on her pretty good, saw 120 mph a few times racing around with a fzr600. anyhow, the leak looks like it's from a vent hose going to the top of the trans/primary. i'm running 75-140 synthetic in the primary, which i've been using for a while with no problems. would going back to sport-trans fluid fix this? or is there other issues? | ||
| Akbuell |
Check the fluid level in the primary. If it is higher than you remember, check the level in the oil tank. You may have a crank seal failing, allowing engine oil to seep into the primary, causing an overfill, and the resulting venting. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
What Akbuell said - that was exactly my experience, and it was the crank seal. It doesn't take much oil from the engine to overfill the primary and have it blow out the tube. | ||
| Ebutch |
+ new seal is much better.If you check primary oil you will find more oil than you put in it + discolored from engine oil and oil res( engine) down some. | ||
| Nukeblue |
cool, thanks guys. i'll check that asap. | ||
| Dano_12s |
Nuke, I use sport fluid or Syn3 28 oz. is all I put in instead of the 32 oz. I think there was bulletin sent out on foaming at constant hi speed riding. | ||
| Reepicheep |
They sell a special tool to seat that crank seal. I did not use one, and had to do the job twice. Henrik did use one, and did the job right the first time. (That being said, I got it right the second time once I knew not to set it that deep, and fashioned my own tool out of a cut up piece of hard wood dowel.. i.e. the infamous Green Tinker Toy piece... which Jack (my son) didn't appreciate when he spotted it in my tool box  ) | ||
| Ceejay |
I used a yellow one as my boy didn't seem to like those colors as much  | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Before doing all that work, make sure it's not just a hose routing problem. If your vent line has a kink or a dip in the routing, it will build up pressure and blow out oil. A little looks like alot once on the rear tire.........Charlie | ||
| Bomber |
also, make sure that water hasn't condensed or otherwise entered the primary/gearbox -- my MaDeuce did exactly what you describe -- enough fluid of any kind will have the poor dear puking all over -- my cleared up with a simple lube drain/refill (make sure NOT to pour in the entire 32 oz . . . . . . . ) | ||
| Nukeblue |
well, tonight i'll check it out. i always have put a full quart in when changing the primary. but i can't remember flogging it that hard with the new 75-140. i'm just hoping for the best...i hate it when my bike's down! hopefully it'll be obvious seein how my engine oil is red & the primary fluid is clear. thanks (Message edited by nuke-blue on March 20, 2007) | ||
| Hedcase |
What color is leaking - red or clear; if you can tell? Another possibility - is the leak from the top of the tranny, or from the end of the breather hose attached to the top of the tranny? If at the top of the tranny it could be your starter motor bolts have worked lose, and you're now leaking around the gasket. As an FYI: when I replaced the starter gasket after the first leak I used a metal/rubber gasket. Heat (or heat and gear oil in tranny) disfigured the rubber on that and it started leaking again. I've gone back to paper, and in both instances used locktite blue on the starter bolts. (Message edited by Hedcase on March 21, 2007) | ||
| Dyerschaos |
My bike was doing the same! oil on the tire, tail. swingarm, wheel. Found my vent tube routed up under the seat between the frame and the oil tank. I rerouted it under the battery down the outside of the swingarm. Problem solved! When it burps it misses everything including my TIRE. I was also thinking of tying it into the plumbing going to my catch can off of the forcewinder? Anybody have any comments on that scenario | ||
| Bad_karma |
Marc that is exactly what I want to do with my trans vent. Will be interested to read the remarks. Joe | ||
| Nukeblue |
bomber, looks like you may have hit the nail on the head. my fluid was clear up to the clutch cover & leaking out when i removed it. (with the bike straight up!) the fluid looked like a butterscotch milkshake. i've seen this in engine oil & it always means water contamination. my question is could that much water get in there through condensation?? or could it be incompatibility of the two different fluids mixing? i'm thinking of changing the crank seal while i'm in there just to make sure. oh yeah, the bonus was my chain adjuster shoe plate was cracked and i just bought the updated one to put in there! | ||
| Bomber |
Nuke -- condensation, excessively energetic washing (water down/up the vent hose -- you KNOW how I know), sins commited in a previous life -- if it was me (and it has been), I'd just do a really good fluid change (up to the level called out in the book, and no more), and see what happens -- classical troubleshooting tells us to do the easiest, cheapest things first, then move on to the more invasive and expensive options -- if the seal DOES need replacing, you'll be our 30 minutes and the cost of a quart of lube . . . . . course, as alwyas, my advice is worth exactly what you've paid for it ;-} | ||
| Djkaplan |
Water can enter throught the clutch cable adjustment if the little rubber boot isn't sealing correctly, so I've been told. Never had the problem, but it makes sense. | ||
| Nukeblue |
well, i'm looking at 70 deg later in the week so i'm thinking i'll try the fluid change & see what happens. it just so happens i have a new clutch cable too. so new chain shoe & clutch cable & 28 oz. here we go... thanks | ||
| Bomber |
Thanks to Mr Kaplan for reminding me -- put a cable tie on the upper part of the black rubber accordian that covers the clutch cable adjuster -- this'll keep almost all the water from entering via the clutch cable | ||
| Dyerschaos |
HELP! i need some feed back on if it's a good idea on connecting the trans vent to my catch can off of the forcewinder. It is still burping and because of where i routed the tube previously i now need new rear brake pads! DUH! i are real smart........ | ||
| Djkaplan |
The trans vent is only there to vent vapor and air pressure as the transmission and oil temperature goes up. If your trans vent is burping, your crank seal is probably leaking. You really shouldn't have to hook the trans vent to a catch-can, but it would make sure you didn't get water in the vent. | ||
| Bomber |
hooking the engine vents to the gearbox/primary . . . . . . .well, if you want the increase/decrease of pressure from teh crankcase affecting your primary lube, and exhaling the stuff (including moisture, btw) into the primary, go ahead on and do so I'd recommend against it, though -- keep em separate | ||
| Dyerschaos |
thank's, any and all comments greatly appreciated marc......... | ||
| Lake_bueller |
condensation, excessively energetic washing (water down/up the vent hose -- you KNOW how I know) Similar problems with my S1W. It was get water in there after washing or riding in the rain. My solution was to put a breather filter on the end of the tube. I haven't had a problem since | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
You want a steady climb in the vent hose all the way to the tail section(I put a little filter on mine) but that's just me. You don't want any dips in the line where moisture and oil vapor can build up and block the air flow(that way anything in the hose will drain back). If you do alot of wheelie, you might want to route it to the front of the bike,but that's for extreme riding......Charlie | ||
| M2nc |
I have the vent tube routed back to the tail section and into a home made catch can. (Old brake fluid bottle and two tie straps). Its low tech but effective. | ||
| Nukeblue |
well after 200 miles of hard riding, it appears to be fixed. just need to plug the hose when i wash it i guess. then remember to remove it... |
