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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through March 17, 2007 » The newer 9 button rotors??? « Previous Next »

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Aaomy
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey guys, what is the torque spec for the newer 9 button rotors that are held on with the button head cap screws?? thanks aaron.. and if you know,, what size are they.. thanks aaron
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will send it this evening
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 12:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aaron:

Screws are torx T-40 for the standard wheel even with locking patches they recomend Blue locktite and a tork of 20 - 22 ftlbs

Listed as a 5/15-18 X 7/8 in the parts manual. P# 6570y the book shows a 2000-2001 X1 as the target models

I ASSUME THAT THE NUMBER IS FOR A CASTALLOY WHEEL

IHTH

Jim..
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 01:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I,m right,use red locktight steel bolts to alum.Was told by budy + ben doing it for years. blue will seez.Think I,m right this time Oldog, lf not let me know.Butch
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Aaomy
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oldog,, man ,, havent looked yet but i bet the 5/15-18 is a killer to find.. guess i will just have to sub in some of those 5/16-18 we have kicking around.. many thanks for the post.. my books are all s2 so they only list for the flat head style.. many thanks,,

e-butch ????? dont really understand that??
color usually indicates bolt size and bonding strength..
purple is for small screws 1/4 inch and less
blue is for medium sized bolts and is hand tool removable..
red is usually larger bolts and permanent,, or high vibration..
green is for larger gaps or retaining compound..
one of the main differences is the gap size you are trying to fill..
now this is not 100%, they do have many , many variations..
but have seen very hard red compound come out in crystal like chunks,, blue usually turns more to powder or paste...
just my 2 cents,,
on other notes,, have seen two other s2t before.. one belonged to a guy in corry pa..i saw him at jamestown hd one day.. and the other belonged to a kid in kennedy ny.. he purchased it from st. louie. and trucked it up here after liking mine.. havent seen it in years though.. heard he may have lost his license threw the grape vine.. jamestown harley is no longer a buell dealer.. they are building a new place though...
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya this is not in the book but works.Red steel bolts to alum.Butch,Aaron is your S2 T bottom out free with that extra 1".
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Djkaplan
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Red Loctite shouldn't be used unless it's specified. Most of the fasteners on our bikes (on motorcycles, in general) are steel alloys threading into aluminum alloys. Red and blue Loctite is specified in the service manual depending on where it's needed.

That actually is in the book.
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes but it works!
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Aaomy
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ebutch,, nope she still bottoms,, when she gets close you get extra vibes from the contact between the frame and swing arm and then touch down.. but the extra inch helps.. your only other option is to spread the the frame rails . have heard of people trying to stretch them with a spreader or just cutting and re welding them or replacing them and moving them up like on you s3.. personally i didnt want to chop or stretch my frame.. currently i am working on a new rear shock design.. dont know if it will help or not.. chunks of billet to fly soon..
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 12:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have ben thinking of removing some 45 degree seat supports on inside + ark as you have done + if a must relocating oil res and if amust 45 again, seat support above ark.won,t know till I try + your input. Thanks Butch Look at Wolfs post Buffalo ny S2 pics..
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What I know helps is compressing WP shock spring + maybe stronger Wp spring
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Aaomy
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

look at wolfs post??? do you mean buffalobolts...
and yes stiffening up the rear suspension will help with the bottoming out issues.. i leave my rear shock set and usually don't bottom unless really hard cornering solo.. but two up will bottom on some bumps.. she wont let me corner with her on.. this new shock should let me adjust spring pressure a lot easier..to better adapt between solo or two up riding..
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