| Author | Message | ||
     Johnnymceldoo |
Is it really necessary to have 3 wheel bearings in my rear PM wheel? I could make a spacer to rest where the most inner bearing resides. Seems it could reduce a little friction maybe as well as reduce costs of replacement. Anyone do this? | ||
| Oldog |
John: I would NOT recommend that change, ball bearings are designed to handle a specific amount of mechanical load removing one of the 2 bearings effectivly doubles the load on the remaining bearing and the wheel hub, assuming that the bearing did not fail quickly and catastrophicaly It would likely "coin" the bore and roll a slot in it ruining a PM wheel buy AL's bearings they may or may not cost more but they are better quality than the OE units. BTW bearings are 99% efficient if properly applied and lubricated. | ||
| Court |
>>>Is it really necessary to have 3 wheel bearings in my rear PM wheel? Yes | ||
| Buellfighter |
It's a must on the loading bearing drive side! | ||
| Firemanjim |
Any decent bearing supply house will have quality replacements at a fraction of the OEM ones--they laughed at my stock PM bearings--never seen any from Turkey before!! | ||
| Oldog |
they laughed at my stock PM bearings--never seen any from Turkey before!! made by Borats' third cousin. several of mine were from Korea, wheel bearings should not go south at 20k..... IHTH See if this helps http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=804779#POST804779 (Message edited by oldog on March 03, 2007) | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
I have a bearing and belt distributor just down the road from our shop so I'll have them match me up a set monday. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Has anybody used the hybrid bearings with ceramic parts? Joe | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Have heard of them but only on racing bicycles. They make them that big for our wheels? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Yup.Got some in the racebike--pretty pricey but was looking for every way to cut friction/rolling resistance. | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
Well I got the front bearings for about $8 a piece and the rears for about $9 a piece. If my rims are already balanced is it important to get them re-balanced? | ||
| Justin_case |
Changing bearings won't affect balance. | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
IM doing tires too. | ||
| Ebutch |
In bearings two grades I use best in standard grades.On two wheels triple digits it counts!NAPA#6205-2zj rear,three needed$60.00.Front wheel#6204-2rsj NAPA(2 front $45) +seals both sides.Can,t see $8 must be trailer bearings.I replace every 20,000 miles.Book says 10,000 + follow Old Dogs directions.Butch | ||
| Ebutch |
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r200/ebutch/P10 10199.jpg | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
Dont really know but I got them from a big bearing distributor. | ||
| Oldog |
John: I hope that you went with the best bearings in the size, From Machinery's hand book 20th ed 1. use the best bearing available for the application remember the bearing is in expensive compaired to the cost of the parts that it carries [ para phrased ] 3. handle bearings with care keep them clean until ready for use. 5. work with clean tools, hands, and in clean surroundings [ para phrased ] 12. use adapters for mounting where even steady pressure is applied avoid using drifts or sleves and hammering them into place.  Ask me how I was reminded about this one I can't find any "grade" info in the machinerys handbook, My 0.02$ cheap bearings are not cheap..... most other information other than arrangement or size, relates to how to calculate the life and come up with an expected life for say 90% of the bearings installed under a given set of loading conditions. this is termed L10. Al sells Japanese or American bearings for this purpose, 80$ ~ 90$ for all of the bearings is cheaper than the 800.00$ ea for a new PM wheel ( IF you can still get it ) Good luck.. Butch: did you mean re grease the Stearing head bearings every 10K? PM wheels have (By Al's account about 3 or 4 bearing changes then the bores get loose and you are replacing wheels) BTW '01 and later PM wheels are not available If you have the bearing grade info can you post it I am curious.. (Message edited by oldog on March 06, 2007) | ||
| Ebutch |
No OldDog Buell Shop manual recommends change wheel bearings every 10,000 miles.I change at 20,000.When I get my bike safety inspection each year the mechanic said(bike, as he was pushing it rolls realy smooth!)He races Sporsters,I liked that made my head swell.I was a maintenance mec.37 years  and know maint. is #1.Butch | ||
| Ebutch |
Also 5th set in my S2T,bearing are still snug as new.Last set came Brazil,NAPA,best grade.Noteised evin,Turkey.Butch | ||
| Bad_karma |
Firemanjim How are they holding up. Do you think there is a compromise in longevity? Does it roll noticeably easier? Any special requires for maintenance and/or installation? Thanks Joe | ||
| Ebutch |
Third set in S3,still snug as new. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Seeing as how I can measure my mileage in multiples of 5 depending on how many runs I get at the Salt they probably last until next millenium.Tires spun on axles noticeably easier and for a long time. Sealed bearing=no maintenance. Freeze bearing, heat wheel, drop bearing in--pretty much,slight tap in with old bearing. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Sweet I think I will try a set on the S1. It doesn't get more that 5k a year. Thanks Joe | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
Olddog, I just gave them a paper with all the bearing dimensions as well as the old ones and specified they needed to be double shielded and that they were wheel bearings. I finished up the swap tonight and everything turns smooth. The old bearings had only 7000 miles on them but I figured since I had the wheels off to change the tires might as well do the bearings. If my wheels ever wear out internally I'll just sleeve them. I used heat when removing and installing the bearings to keep scarring at a minimum. I'll double check the make tomorrow and see if theyre any good. (Message edited by johnnymceldoo on March 07, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
No OldDog Buell Shop manual recommends change wheel bearings every 10,000 miles.I change at 20,000.When I get my bike safety inspection each year the mechanic said(bike, as he was pushing it rolls realy smooth!) I cant find it in my manual where is it? | ||
| 5liter |
Mine says "Check wheel bearings at every 10,000 mile service interval" Section 1-8 page 1-21 Wheels and Tires section. It doesn't say anything about replacing them. | ||
| Ebutch |
Oh please forgive me. Not in shop manual!But I will still check daily. Replace at 20,000 miles with best quality bearings.I have seen many times hardness wear off bearings and bearing failure.High performane,carving corners,cheap insurance!Butch | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
Ok, these are Nachi-Fujikoshi bearings made in japan. | ||
| Oldog |
John likely good stuff, Ok Butch that makes sense to me I check em each time the wheel comes off for tire or anual inspection, and the ocasional visual inspection Inspect Replace As Needed The reason I questioned it has nothing to do with you personaly. IF when your s2 was built with PM wheels AND the FSM called for replacement of the wheel bearings at 10 K BUT Then the S3 came with essentialy the same PM wheels but that FSM did not call for replacement then we have a major @#%$@!#$% Omission The S3 and The X1 after 98 are essentialy the same in the engine and most of the Chassis Except for body work and some details One of the failure modes discussed in the MH is lubrication failure, most of the failed bearings that I have seen on this board look like they dryed out and ran with out grease, Lafayette AKA Buellistic indicates that he opens his and adds grease to them I have never done that but it makes sense I think that the grease is about gone in the old ones I still have some of them. Butch If your heating them to drop the bearings out like I did that definately helps extend the life of the wheel, Al Lighton of American Sport Bike recomends using a press to insure straight alignment, I used the Axles and the old bearings as push blocks after trying to use Dry Ice to freze the bearings and a torch to heat the wheels, In hind site I did not get the wheels hot enough and did not have the needed tools to properly press them into place. Changing the wheel bearings at every 10K may be expensive but I bet that your bike rolls quite nicely Mine does ( a brake overhaul helps that too. ) | ||
| Ebutch |
Oldog I always clean bike after each use,most,thats how I catch alot of things.Next time I,ll check book before quoeting.Pull Some Gs.Butch | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
Oldog, your wheels must have a smaller bearing bore than mine because I didnt have to heat much more 150 degrees for install and disassembly. I didnt get the new bearing cold either prior to assembly. Mine must be slightly larger in the bore. A couple tenths of a thousandth can make a big difference. | ||
| Oldog |
John: That dont sound too good I would keep an eye on them and yeah .0002" makes a BIG difference in the fit, Al's thinking is that each change driving them in removes "a little more metal" I dont have the drawings or any thing but I sorta would have expected .0005" interfierence fit | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
the autozone wheel bearing puller does not fit still cant believe they just fall out, i wish I had a cheap puller to use after heating them up (Message edited by mmmi_grad on March 22, 2007) | ||
| Rick_a |
I got bearings locally distributed by ALLBALLZ, for super cheap. 10,000 miles later and they ain't broke yet. I just check 'em every tire change. I inspect the seals often...that's usually what trashes 'em anyway. | ||
| Oldog |
MMI: I have PM wheels they are bare on the end faces and when the hub is hot enough the bearings fall out please check for my post in the KV tools: torch 2 chairs 1.5" x 18" steel rod ( scrap ) [ the drift ] drift for tapping the single bearing if it sticks I place it in the wheel to put weight on the single bearing on the rear It falls out! the hubs are going to take about 4~5 minutes to heat. front fell out on one side I buggered the bore on the other so it was a gentle tap out, I would not recommend that high of a heat on the hubs for install as the grease seals on the new bearings will probably be damaged. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
Oldog  I have read your NB recap of the process. I hate our local dealer. Im sure those guys could be winners under diff management but it isnt going to happen anytime soon. the trouble that is possible here isnt something i can tolerate. When they come out I guess its too much to ask for harley to give us a min venerial caliper reading of the race. Yes I have seen the pics of one race that was used a couple times. It looked trashed or maybe it moved when whell was off several times the contributed to race smashing......bla bla bla. I can pass on that after 7000 miles and a few times wheel has been off my bearing are freaking tight!!! I mean tight to move at room temp. They dont feel rough like they are falling apart but. If you have ever seen old bearing in a star hub after just two years of use and bike washes its enough to scare the hell out of you when it comes to this subject and xpensive alum wheels. owell... later |
