| Author | Message | ||
     Naustin |
The 2001 S3 service manual does not mention front isolator replacement anywhere that I can find. I ordered the isolator and the hardware from Al at American sport bike, and I got all the nuts and bolts, as well as a print out of the 1999 service bulletin talking about the recall on the "do not remove" bracket. The bulletin talks about removing this bracket, replacing it with the new version, and replacing the bolts; and the kit from American sport bike comes with 2 new bolts grade 9 bolts. But, since my bike is a 2001 and already has the new bracket, I shouldn't need to remove it or replace those bolts, should I? The proceedure in the bullitin is just a little confusing in general. It says I should replace the actual isolator flange bolts too, but the kit doesn't include those - so I assume I can just reuse the old ones or not?? Why wasn't the front isolator replacement procedure included in the service manual? Is it so easy to do that they just didn't bother? Thanks for any input. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
It's kinda hidden, I'll see if I can dig it up for you if someone else doesn't beat me to it. Did you look under chassis or engine removal? You can get those flange bolts from the dealer if you want to replace them. I got the chrome ones since they make my bike go faster! The job is pretty easy. Use a bottle jack or something of the sort to support the front of the engine. Remove the tank then undo the bracket and bolt passing through the iso, I'd do the iso bolt first since it's cranked to like 125lb/ft of torque. The flange bolts don't get nearly that much so I don't know that they are under that much load. The knowledge vault will cover this under chassis I believe. There is a "D" shaped washer on the top of the iso, make sure it's put back the same direction it came out. I think that's about it... if not someone else will chip in. -Mike (Message edited by littlebuggles on February 14, 2007) | ||
| Bomber |
get a crowfoot so you can accurately torge the two flange bolts -- only way I could find to get the torque wrench on em with the engine installed | ||
| Loki |
You will find the front isolator removal/install in chapter 3 - Engine within the procedure for removing/installing the engine itself. the torque values are listed there also. Isolator bolt, front: 100-110 ft lbs Isolator bolts, side: 100-110 ft lbs (red locktite) | ||
| Ducxl |
I got pissed and removed the frame from the engine  . I was real easy after that.And as a consequence i also did swingarm bearings,upgraded muffler mount...blah,blah,blah. It's a real challenge with all of the associated wiring located immediately in it's vicinity.I'm just now in the midst of final assembly. Many will suggest i went way overboard by removing the frame,but if i did it again i'd remove the frame.While you're at it,do the rear isolators. | ||
| Naustin |
I'm going nowhere near the rear ones.  Thanks for the hint on where to look in the manual. The index shows where to look for the rear ones, but not the front - and then I just was looking in the same section. Oh well, I'll find it tonight. Just to be clear though, I should neither have to remove the front mount bracket, OR loosen any of the tie-bars, right? | ||
| Bomber |
Naustin -- right! just support the mill from underneath, three bolts out, three in and yer done! | ||
| Naustin |
 sweet. Might have to fire up the old propane sunflower and tackle this sucker this weekend while the wife has the car out of town and out of the way. | ||
| Road_thing |
Where do I find a torge wrench? rt | ||
| Bluzm2 |
No need to replace your front bracket, just the top isolator. Just support the motor with a sissor jack. It's an easy swap out. It should be the same as an M2, you'll spend more time removing the tank and your fairing lowers than doing the replacement. Brad | ||
| Rotzaruck |
rt order one from Sears cataloque | ||
| Oldog |
Nick see of this helps http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=802116#POST802116 | ||
| Bad_karma |
Naustin When I replaced my mount this year there was a warning either in the instruction or my manual about removing the bolts that holds the mount to the front head. I found a broken bolt in the head. Joe | ||
| Loki |
'Thang, You will need to get hold Sven and Oly. Although Lena last used it to adjust Sven's attitude | ||
| Bomber |
alrightalrightalright . . . . I don't type so good -- go ahead, pick on the crippled kid ;-} | ||
| Naustin |
Oldog - thanks for that link. I was researching the archives back in December -so I just missed that thread... Joe - I'll be checking those head bolts closely, but as long as they're ok, I'm not touching them... With my luck if I go to replace them, that's when one of them will sheer off. Brad - I hope you're right. I'll be bummed if I have to take off the front end like Oldog. ... Hmmm, maybe I should go out to the garage and actually LOOK at the bike tonight...  PS) I checked my manual in the Engine removal/installation section and while there is a diagram of the front isolator assembly, the instructions are worthless and assume you are removing the entire engine, therefore not mentioning relevant procedures necessary if you only want to replace the isolator. Oh well. It sounds like it should be no problem. Thanks again, everyone. (Message edited by naustin on February 15, 2007) OOps. Damnit, I think my torque wrench only goes up to 80 ft lbs. Everytime I do anything I have to buy $150 worth of tools...  (Message edited by naustin on February 15, 2007) | ||
| Road_thing |
No problem Naustin, just torge it to 80, then reposition the socket and then torge it to 30!  rt | ||
| Ducxl |
I'll be bummed if I have to take off the front end like Oldog. if you're that concerned about disassembly,maybe you should pay someone else to do the job......the right way.. sorry if i came across abrasively,my motto is "once you know what the job requires,the rest is easy." The more tools you aquire,the more easily future jobs will be.I had a Jims headstock bearing tool hanging around i used once or twice.Well while doing swingarm bearings a couple weeks ago,i discovered it doubles for use there.Tools are great investments. (Message edited by ducxl on February 15, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
Nick: You don't have to strip the bike that far all of the stuff on the trees must be re arranged you are going to want to disconnect the wiring and move the cables they are in the way! the wires and cables pass down the left side on the X1 and through the space above the front ISO thats why I removed that stuff I also used the time to inspect the control rings for corosion and wiring issues, can you find a beam type TQ wrench? not as nice as a micro type but simple and effective ( cheap! ) taking the front off of the buell is pretty straight forward dealing with air in the brakes thats a PITA | ||
| Ducxl |
dealing with air in the brakes thats a PITA Another reason to pull it down...to replace the brake fluid once a year anyway(i also threw in pads)..use the "Mity-Vac" with great efficiency. Snap-On torque instruments,i gots two that i love to use.. | ||
| Naustin |
Ducxl - I'm not concerned because I can't do it -- I'll just be bummed because its 4 damn degrees in my garage right now. My experience has been that paying someone else to do anything is a guaranteed way to make sure it gets f'd up. I'm asking questions to make sure I DO, do it the "right way". And, thanks for the profound wisdom on tools there, buddy. Oh, and Sorry if that comes across abrasively.  Oldog Thanks for the advice on the torque wrench. I know where to borrow one that goes up to 600 ft. lbs, but that monster has about a 36 inch handle and 3/4" drive... I'll try to find a beam type one or just rent one from an auto parts store. (Message edited by naustin on February 15, 2007) | ||
| Naustin |
Yeah Napa. 8pc crow's feet set = $16 150 ft lbs Beam Type Torque Wrench = $30  Good to go. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
NAPA has torque wrenches? I didn't even think of looking there! | ||
| Oldog |
Nice thing about a beam type nothing to "recalibrate" or to fail, down side no ratchet. IYDM What are the Crows feet for? I could not get to the nuts / bolts with any thing but a box end / open end, and the big daddy (110ftlb with a socket ) | ||
| Naustin |
Oldog: I read in another thread that the crows feet are handy for torquing the flange bolts. I figured for $16, they're just nice to have whether I can use them on this project or not. And I hate nothing more than being up to my elbows in something and having to run to the store for a tool... I'll take some pictures tomorrow so I can show you guys how it goes. Nick (Message edited by naustin on February 16, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
And I hate nothing more than being up to my elbows in something and having to run to the store for a tool... or any thing else! } | ||
| Kmbuell |
I've recently tried to change my front isolator on my 2000 M-2. The part I received from the dealer will not work, the center bolt hole is only 7/16" diameter, but the bolt is 1/2". The dealer is baffled. They refunded my money and sent me on my way. The part had a -C designation, the book listed a -B, but it has superseded. Any ideas? Does Buell have a bad batch out there? Can it be drilled out to fit? | ||
| Oldog |
KM: the part was superceeded and the old part fits the buell has a new number Contact Smokescreen at stone mountain hd Buell( sponsor ) OR Al at American Sport Bike (sponsor) they got the straight scoop. Smoke and I ran into that, its posted in the KV as well. | ||
| Naustin |
I didn't know about that. Glad I went to Al for my parts. He was taking care of me more than I even knew. Here's the pics: Getting Started  Tearing Down  | ||
| Naustin |
Old Isolator - Just starting to go...  All Done!  It was really easy, and I didn't have any problems at all, thanks for all the advice so I knew what to look out for. Nick |
