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Aeholton
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 09:15 am: |
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I posted the description of my problem in the knowledge vault (http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249551.html?1168106475) but only got one response (thanks Iamike). I have a request to X1 owners. Would you please touch the back of your ignition switch after your bike has been running a few minutes and see if it is very hot to the touch? Also, I would appreciate it if someone could post a wiring diagram that includes the key/ignition switch circuit. Thanks in advance. |
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Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 12:22 am: |
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I had that problem AE you are looking at a key switch. |
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Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 08:29 am: |
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Oldog - Did your failing switch cause the check engine light to come on? The engine continues to run (albeit very roughly) when it happens, then just smooths back out and the light goes off. I would have thought it would just kill the engine. That is why I asked if someone could post the wiring diagram that includes the key/ignition switch circuit. I thought maybe the circuit is shorting further down the line and the excess current was causing the heat in the switch. I don't have a manual, yet. |
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Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 09:14 am: |
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you're switch is giving you notice of it's coming retirement -- they often die a long, slow, lingering death, rather than waking up dead one morning, like other things electrical while it's certainly possible that a short up/downstream is putting too much current through the switch, I'd order a new switch now (they take a lil bit to arrive, the dealer needs the VIN to order it) |
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Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 12:56 pm: |
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Ae the vibes cause some of the probs, as the switch ages and gets rattly the contacts get erroded and they tend to heat the back of your switch is HOT! ) mine got hot enough that you did not want to touch it long. besides the main CB would catch a catastrophic short, IIRC MY FSM is at the garage If I get a chance this evening I will bring it home and exerpt the main circuits for you, there is a high degree of likely hood that its just the switch, OH btw, If you dont mind 2 keys and some light electrical / mechanical mods for a reasonable 35$ you can get a keyed differently switch from Custom Chrome, Check AL at American Sport Bike I think he was carrying street price 2 years ago was ~40$ VS 150$ Yes the CE light will get triggered. the ET sensor will do it too, come and go never going to ground but sending the ecm erronious data that will get worse with time, my 02 fix the switch. (Message edited by OlDog on January 09, 2007) |
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Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 03:08 pm: |
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Thanks Oldog. I did some electrical tests today. It is dropping .65 volts across the switch (that would explain the heat). I was thinking about jumping the pins at the connector (hot wire it) and trying it to see if it eliminates the CE light. However, I'm not sure if I need to energize both the "parking" and the "ignition" circuits to run it. Right now I get voltage on the red/pink stripe wire when in the "Parking" position. When in the "IGN" position, I get voltage on the red/pink stripe and the red/black stripe wires. I think I may have to jumper together all three contacts to run. Please post the diagram if you get a chance. |
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Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 12:57 am: |
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AE: Like a twit I forgot the book to excerpt for you, you are on the right track you must connect all three for the run I did that for a while prior to doing the custom chrome switch replacement for the buell switch,
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/250633.jpg) the main harness gets tight at the area going to the stearing head and by the ecm it runs under the top left frame rail, not too many areas of concern other wise I will try to get the info to you asap . sorry.. |
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