| Author |
Message |
    
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 11:00 pm: | 
|
I finally got around to taking a new Buell XB12SS for a test ride today...Man I wish could afford to buy this thing, it has the full Micron Serpent system fitted and sounds awesome!
If Only!!!!
Cheers
 |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 01:11 pm: |
|
I wouldn't do that if I were you!
I prohibit myself from taking a spin on a new one until my project is done, for fear of scrapping it and going for a longgggg ride... |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 16, 2007 - 09:14 am: |
|
Well, I ran into another problem.
I had turned down a new axle from 7075, put threads on it, made a plug to go into the left side of the swingarm and then went to get the machinist folks to punch out a 1/2" allen drive so I would be able to put the axle through. Due to the length of the axle They can't do it, and suggested I punch a hole, thread the hole and stick a regular bolt in it to tighten down. I don't like this idea. Thus I was thinking of using the XB axle and adding material to it so the 3 spoke wheel's bearings would sit on the lands properly. Anyone ever done this? It is the only method I can think of to solve the problem, other than buying a new wheel of course or adding adjusters to the swingarm...One of which if it comes down to that I will just buy the rest of the bike, and the other well that won't happen as I don't trust my aluminum skills enough yet and to get one from someone else is too expensive... |
Oldog
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 16, 2007 - 08:49 pm: |
|
CJ
according to machinerys hand book ed 20
7075 alloys are not considered weldable by common processes, to do so will cause degrade in strength and may cause cracking of the welds, also building up the journal on a bench will warp the axle?
aluninum axle ???? for the rear wheel?
I would consider making the axle from steel, rather than aluminum it is too critical for experimentation,
can you cut a square pocket in the axle end on a milling machine then make a wrench
if you want light use 4140 high strength and gun drill it alla factory..
either way good luck. |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 06:52 am: |
|
Ceejay I agree with Oldog on the axle, Alloy would not be strong enough for the job at hand.
I think once you get a steel axle made you could possibly drill two holes in the end and remove and replace it like an angle grinder disc nut or just make the axle from hex stock a little longer and have a bolt head on there that sticks out instead of recessed in.
CJ I just scored a set of XB forks of ebay for $149.00 Australian! Bloody Bargain!
I'm going to pull them apart and powder coat or paint the legs and put new seals in them. |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 09:14 am: |
|
Oldog-that is what I was going to do with the axle-drilling a hole through it and making a wrench. Jodie's idea of drilling two holes and using something similar to a angle grinder nut is a good one, but as mentioned I may just fit an XB style wheel on the rear and try to move to the XB style front end later-especially if I can get one for 150 bucks!
Jodie I tried painting my legs once-looked really good until installation. I put some wedges into the triples to keep them spread apart but still didn't hold the paint very well, and it kept coming off. might try taping the triples as it is very hard to get the legs through there without scratching up. hard anodizing is cheap, like 85 bucks around here... |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 12:40 pm: |
|
switching to the XB wheel makes this build much easier which I am finding out while thinking about it a bit more. I doubt I'll need a spacer between the wheel and the rear sprocket, there won't be a need for one between the left side hub and the swingarm, I can just run the axle that came with the swingarm, it allows me to run XB rear brake without any mods. I was going through a lot more work to put the old buell by Marches on there...Guess I should followed the function vs. form instead of the form vs. function... |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 12:54 pm: |
|
as far as using a 7075 axle vs. steel they aren't that much different. While I'm not a metallurgist I would think the aluminum one, while it would break first, would be more stiff, and since I wasn't going to be hollowing it out would probably actually last better. Even has higher tensile and yeild strengths but wouldn't take abuse as well, which if installed properly wouldn't be a problem, as the bearings are riding on it not gouging into it...Of course this is 4130-I didn't get to check what type of steel the axle is made from... Plus it is a moot point as I'm going to the stock axle and wheel, but can be fun to discuss...
http://www.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp? bassnum=M4130A
7075
http://www.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp? bassnum=MA7076 |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 02:25 pm: |
|
Thanks Corey on the anodising tip I will see if I can get that done here. Also you will only need the XB brake caliper bracket as the tuber caliper is the same part, as i found out after I purchased one!
Cheers
Jodie |
Oldog
| | Posted on Friday, January 19, 2007 - 01:26 am: |
|
tensiles and ultimates look ok the shear is wayyy lower for the "alloy" and it has a "fracture" rating I think that the steel is tougher
glad that you are going that way
thanks for sharing I admire folks that can take the time to do stuff like this. |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Friday, January 19, 2007 - 11:04 am: |
|
I agree that steel is tougher, but I do believe that 7075 would be good in this app, but as you pointed out would be bad to weld. What was going to happen was due to the different hub widths I was going have to put XB bearings in the marches and since the shape of the XB axle is what it is, much narrower in the middle, I needed to add material to the axle and then turn it down to the proper size, this would have been done on the original but I have decided that while I really like the 3 spokes I will have a lot more money in installing the bearings, welding, turning down, and hopefully getting a little bit wider rim than just installing an XB rear and be done with it, plus it removes a lot of the headaches
in an accident aluminum, especially 7075 will actually break before bending in most cases, while most forms of steel will do the opposite. I think it is pretty cool that the XB frames are so crash resilient, not sure what the alloy is but I always thought that they would be toast... |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 07:25 pm: |
|
Here's my cam cover painted and reinstalled, I fitted the new bronze oil pump drive gear while it was apart.
Here's my XB to tuber modified headers, I wrapped them with 1" exhaust wrap and used stainless steel CV joint rubber boot ties to fit.
Here's my modified 55T tube frame Buell pulley painted with wrinkle paint on my new Sunset ornge wheel, It will have stainless steel allen head bolts securing it on.
Looks good in the sun.
Hows your bike coming along Corey? |
Oldog
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 11:48 pm: |
|
Jose How was the job wrapping the header? |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 01:41 am: |
|
Jim it was quite easy took around 45 minutes, I started by roughly wrapping the front header first to work out the length then cut it. I then rolled up the piece I cut off and put it in a bucket of water which is very important as it makes it easier to get it on and tight. I wrapped it from the front outlet to the collector overlapping not quite half, then clamped it. Then I put the rest of the wrap in the bucket. Starting from the rear outlet I wrapped it all the way to were the headers meet the muffler. Once completed I placed it out in the sun for a few hours then coated it with high temp exhaust paint(my wrap was already black to start with) |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 01:43 am: |
|
Forgot, I had the headers held in the vice which also helped. |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 07:40 am: |
|
Hey Jodie,
That cam cover looks excellent! The timing plate cover on the S3T's is pretty cool too. I was never a fan of my M2's cover...
Jodie's right on the wrapping, soaking in water is the best way and even with the black it looks better if it is painted over as the water pulls a lot of the black off the wrap anyways...
I pulled my bike apart this weekend, partly to get ready for frame paint-I have to clean up a few welds and then she's ready to go, but mostly because I had to use the floor space for my lady's car which got new pads and rotors all around, good fun but then it snowed about 3" so I couldn't really put them through their paces...
I welded up my force "header" but still need to do some cleaning up on that also, along with placeing the battery tray and finishing a few welds the old girl is about ready for paint. I still need to purchase a new back wheel due to the previously mentioned findings, but I can carry on without. It is mostly grunt work right now, sanding, some polishing, and grinding, but all necessary. I still have to locate the bobbins that you sent Jodie, but I need to wait until the TIG opens up again, either that or purchase one, which probably won't happen for a while.
With the snow me and the fam went for a bit of fun, I have a 120 lb. rot/lab mix so I tied the snow sled to her and then threw my elder kids in the sled, and we went around the neighborhood as fast as the dog could go, wish I had taken some pics, as all were having a good time Hopefully the weather is not too hot down there Jodie... |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 07:47 pm: |
|
Corey I borrowed a spiral screw extractor set from one of our diesel fitters at work. This is the first time I have had 100% success with one of these, Irwin brand good quality set!
Removed the offending bolt and put the rear rocker box on with no dramas
Here's a picture with the headers and carb in place.
enjoy!
 |
Spiderman
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 08:32 pm: |
|
your missin a tranny...
 |
Road_thing
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 10:16 am: |
|
Nice!
rt |
Bomber
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 06:19 pm: |
|
you guys are getting all crazed! (not hard, I know) -- thanks for the inspiration! |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 07:12 am: |
|
Jodie-At one point I tried to get my motor in my house, telling my wife that it was a piece of art and should be displayed as such. Well I still am sticking it in the bike, so you can guess the outcome of that one. The reason I mention this is because your motor is looking good...save for the aforementioned gaping hole where an output shaft should be
Good to hear that nothing more than wanted happened with the easy outs-spiral ones work best but it is still a rare occurance for me...
I'm hoping to get the battery tray tacked in this weekend, as well as the shock reservoir holder-I almost forgot about the little thing, then with a bit of luck, I should be ready to prep for paint.
Bombs-hopefully we are not contributing to your mission creep. |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 06:32 pm: |
|
Corey it would be more durable to get the frame powder coated than paint if possible.
Once I can afford to rebuild my engine I will get all the cases stripped and powder coated...
Polished metal and chrome are for Harley's, As I ride in all weather(when bike is going!) I like less cleaning!
Yes there was a big sigh of relief when that broken bolt moved I can tell you!
Spidey I'm waiting on one bearing for the transmission then I can refit it.
Thanks road_thing |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 08:33 am: |
|
Jodie-Still thinking about that 88" huh? That would be way fun.
I'm still debating on the PC vs. regular paint. No real reason not to, but I'm not sure if there is a real reason to do it either. |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 10:30 am: |
|
Now that you have trimmed that cover you need to build yourself some braided oil lines with some nice colorful anodized fittings and get rid of those skanky old rubber lines. |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 01:53 pm: |
|
Firemanjim yes that is the plan the old lines are there just to keep the oil from dripping all over the place and to keep dust out until final assembly. Also Jim whats your bike like to ride with the 88" kit in it, as this is my plan for this engine 120hp would be nice! Is the bike reliable with those mods? I see you went back to 1250cc. |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 06:01 am: |
|
No real progress at the moment.
Just some more pictures of my swingarm rear wheel and pulley.
 |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 10:47 am: |
|
The 88" was a blast to ride(it made 121hp with a Mikuni 42,should have been a 45) and would have been reliable if yours truly had not "overstressed" the stock rods by turboing it to the tune of 177HP.
The 1250 was the replacement motor to get me back racing and in a different class.
Now, the new motor is a 100"--- |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 05:55 pm: |
|
That sounds awesome!
I hope to get the same results you achieved on your 88" motor before the turbo...
The 100" you need different front engine mount because of the taller bore don't you?
The Wakan has 100" S&S it sounds sweet! there is a video on there web site. |
Fullauto
| | Posted on Monday, February 05, 2007 - 06:51 am: |
|
Having powder coated frames before, i don't think I'd do it again. It may be tough but epoxy powder coat tends to go milky after about nine months. Polyester powder coat is too soft. The next one will be two packed. Also, when i've stripped off old powder coat, I've found rust patches that were not visible until stripped.
My two bobs worth. |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Monday, February 05, 2007 - 08:42 am: |
|
Full, that's kind of what I was thinking.
Plus my Ford has had the same paint for 12 yrs. and while it could use a good wash and wax, it is still looking good. and it's a spray on. PC and regular paint are pretty much one in the same just applied differently. PC is definitely a good choice for a production facility as they can reduced thier consumeables and thier emissions and maybe even pay thier applicators less(I've heard it is very easy to apply) just by choosing PC vs. regular aerosolized paint. It does look damn good though... |
Joesbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, February 25, 2007 - 06:48 am: |
|
Thanks for the pulley Corey!
I will update once I've done some more work.
Cheers
Jodie |
|
