| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
Well, I just bought a set of Michelins. Now I'm thinking about replacing the isolators. The M2 has 14500 on the odo. Is it a job to do at home? Stuff I've done I pulled the wheels new front rotor, pads new primary tensioner clutch cable new shift linkage modified muffler I am ok with the wrenching, just a little old fashioned in terms of technology. Once upon a time I assembled two bikes from the spokes up. I have most tools Since this is a wrench job, is it a do-it-yerself? Where in the manual is a step-by step? Where on the KV? | ||
| Whodom |
Front isolator is pretty easy; the rear are more difficult. Get the updated rear isolator kit which includes isolators, new Torx head bolts, and a new front pulley guard. I believe the method outlined in the manual is NOT recommended any longer. The preferred method is to drop the swing arm and carrier. Here is the best written procedure I've found: http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isolator.php It's long and rambling and goes into a whole lot of history you don't need, but there's a step-by-step procedure near the middle. You also need to make a compressor tool for your new isolators out of your old ones like this: http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isotool.php I thought it was a pretty tedious job, and I had to buy several new wrenches including a set of Crows feet wrenches, a big Torx wrench for the new isolator bolts and a big hex key for the old isolator bolts, but it wasn't that bad. You should be able to change them without much problem. | ||
| Bigblock |
It's kind of a bitch, but you should be able to do it yourself. You'll need the special tool, to pry the frame off the bushing, and then you might need to make a steel shim thingie to stretch the fram e a little wider yet than the tool does, so that you can actually get the old ones out and the new ones in. That's what I had to do, although I had a aftermatket bushing replacement tool, not the Buell part. There is a service bulletin B-016B , "revised product program BP5- ISOLATOR KIT" , I think I printed it off of badweb, but I don't remember, do a search here, or maybe someone else here can tell ya... I'd read the bulletin thoroughly before deciding to do it... Again, it is a fairly difficult job, but not impossible, if you are feeling adventurous and don't mind hunting down the tool and etc., you should be able to pull it off. Replace the belt while you are at it! You won't want to pull that side again at 20,000 mi when that old belt goes! Hope it works out well for ya... | ||
| Bookyoh |
Silas: If you have bike without the removeable sideplate, I recommend you go to the american thunderbike tech section and read up on an alternate method to replace the isolators. It basically removes the entire swingarm assembly instead of spreading the frame. I used it a couple of years ago on my M2 and it worked out OK. I shared some of my experiences so if you search for "bookyoh" you should be able to find them. I think it was July 2004. Just a few weeks ago there was a thread on this subject with some other methods and tools. What year is your bike? If you already have the 2001 style isolator there should be no reason to replace them. I upgraded mine on my 2000 because I was in there servicing the swingarm bearings anyway. Mark | ||
| Firemanjim |
The big question is why? At 14000 miles your isolators should be just fine. And 20,000 on your belt? What are you guys doing? I had over 60K on mine and only changed when I was taking the bike to Bonneville as insurance. And that belt took numerous dyno runs and multiple runs at Bonneville at 177 HP. No signs of failure. | ||
| Bigblock |
I was unaware of this method from ATC, but it looks pretty good, though. Here's a couple options for ya... | ||
| Bigblock |
What are we doing??? Wheelies? Stoppies? Thrash the crap out of it? Ride the twisties? Ride the potholes? Damn belt looked great at 20,000. except for that neat, clean break... Bushings didn't look so good, though. Torn on both sides, but still holding... The question is Jim, what the heck are you doing, to get 60k out of yours??????????!!!!!!!!!!!!! 28,000 front iso bracket just broke. Bushing looked good, though. Still replaced, though. | ||
| Bigblock |
Silas has a 99 M2, I'd say DEFINITELY replace those rear isos! | ||
| Silas_clone |
I don't ride very hard IMO, don't wheelie, but this thing let's me ride harder than I've ever ridden. I usually cruise the backroads of Orange, Person and Durham Counties and really never go for more than 50-100 miles on a typical ride, but I am usually going 60-70 mph with an occaisional outburst. Anyway, the ride seems to be getting buzzy. Before I do the isos, I will check the primary. I have about 1500 miles on the new shoe. Also, I believe the muffler mod, although neat, does not eat up pulses like a glasspack. I am hoping the much needed new tires help the smoothness. When I got off my sporty and onto this thing a year ago, it seemed like the smoothest ride. Now it seems buzzy. I must be jaded. I saw a new KTM Supermoto at Triangle Cycles today while shopping for tires. Bought Road pilots or something like that, had a Dunlop on the rear and a Conti up front [it came that way] Went for a quick spin, but didn't notice anything different. More 2morrow... | ||
| Firemanjim |
Well,minimal wheelies and stoppies, but lots and lots of twisties,cross country a couple times,several track schools,racing at Bonneville, abusing poor bike with Aerocharger turbo.Had a built 88" motor until it expired from overwork,now a nice running 1250. | ||
| Bomber |
isos deteriorae over time -- it ain't JUST milage and usage -- FMJ has had some great luck on his, but exposure to near urban atmosphere will chew up the rubber PDQ - - - MuricanThunderbike procedure works great -- I would suggest compressing the isos as they say, rather than "spreading" the frame (I've heard, but not seen, of frames that "sprung" and don't return to their normal dimensions) taking it apart is a one-person job -- one person can also do all the assembly solo, but it's tedious -- my suggestion would be to gather all the parts and tools, get the isos compressed on the frame, and call a buddy for assistance with the last half hour of the job | ||
| Bookyoh |
Here is the summary I posted back in 2004 on my isolator replacement: Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2004 - 08:24 pm: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- did the 10,000 mile maintenance on my 2000 M2 swingarm Friday and Saturday. At the same time, I upgraded my isolators to the 2001 design. The tips I picked up from the AmericanThunderbike tech article plus a few from Badweatherbikers where absolutely exellent! I choose to use the method of removing the swingarm mounting block and swingarm assembly as a unit and then using old isolator compresssion tools because: 1) I did not have a frame spreading tool 2) I didn't feel I could accurately control hoisting the frame without fear of damaging the front mount. Total job took me the better part of 2 days between studying it, taking things apart, studying it some more, worrying, putting things together, studying it some more, adjusting, readjusting, panicking, ...... Now that I have done it, a next time would probably take me 3 hours working alone. Here are a few tips I can add: 1) Remove the muffler. This let me move a hydraulic jack under the engine to support it. I used a ratchet tie down around the jack and over the top of the frame so that if the bike moved, the jack would move with it. 2) I used a 6 foot ladder and ratchet straps to lift the rear of the bike, I then put jack stands under the passemger pegs to hold the bike level. I kept the bike slightly suspended by the "ladder hoist" as a safety back up in case the bike moved off of a jack stand. 3) Remove the rear fender after disconnecting the shock. This makes the screws much more accessible. 4) I had a tough time getting the new grease seals installed. I used the 36mmm socket for the rear axle nut and a hammer. I started gently tapping it in place and could not get it in ! I wound up distortng the seal. I switched to the other side and took a new seal. This time I just hit it firmly and it went in. I few more less firm hits and I had it installed. Three lessons for me here. First, buy an extra seal in case I screw one up. It takes at least a week to get one from my Buell dealer so spend the extra $6 just in case. Second, line up the seal and hit it firmly. And third, find a place to buy these seals besides Buell next time. I imagine they will be much less expensive. 5) I was very nervous about setting the preload on my swingarm bearings. I tried the recommended 11 foot pounds (132 inch pounds)and they were way to tight. What I did was remount the swingarm block loosely to the transmission, started at 40 inch pounds, and kept increasing the torque on the adjusting bolt until I got the desired preload. I found that it took 3 pounds on my fish scale to lift the swingarm with no preload on the bearings. I kept increasing the torque in 5 inch pound increments until I got the scale up to 4 pounds. The FM says 3.0 to 3.7 but I thought it felt really nice and smooth at 4 pounds. By the way, I found that my swingarm had no preload and very little grease in it after 10,000 miles. For me 85 inch pounds worked out. Increasing to 90 to 95 inch pounds gave a significant preload increase. 6) The old isolators as compression tools worked very well. I brought the swingarm block as close to the engine as I could and tapped it up with a mallet until I could get the holes lined up. I then used the two easiest to reach bolts to pull the swingarm block up to the transmission by alternately tightening each one. 7) Lining up the isolators to the swingarm bearing blocks was very trying. BE SURE YOU HAVE A 5/8" X 18 TAP AVAILABLE IN CASE YOU SCREW UP THE THREADS!! The first one I tried to install messed up the threads. The head on the torx bolt is huge and rubbed into the side of the isolator. This forced it to start sideways and bugger up the first couple of threads of the swingarm bearing block. After chasing the threads and blowing out all the chips, I used the oringinal isolator allen bolt to kind of do a final alignment. I then installed the torx bolt after putting some anti seize on the isolator rubber where the head was rubbing too. This time it went in OK. Well that was it. It was a big job and I had recurrring visions of how would I get all these pieces to the HD/Buell dealer if I couldn't get it together. Now that I have done it once, the next time will be far far easier. Mark 2000 M2 Cyclone Cincinnati, Ohio | ||
| Silas_clone |
Excellent report on the iso replacement. I'll give 'er a whirl sooner or later. Did 100 miles this am, nice! The tires felt "slippery" at first. Michelin ROADS are the brand. Any suggestions on tire pressure for a 300 pounder? |
