| Author | Message | ||
     Notpurples2 |
I spent most of yesterday riding. I opened the S2 up on the interstate but over 100mph she started to feel light and a little wobbly. I pushed her on up but by the time I reached 120 it was bad enough to make me worried so I backed off. This isn't a major problem since I don't often go that fast. I'm content to cruise at 80 or so. But I'm worried that it could be a sign of something that needs attention. But what could be causing this? I was tucked in tight and relaxed. | ||
| Denfromphilly |
My bike develops a little wobble at 120 indicated. The highways near me are grooved and I don't know if that's a factor. Inflation and tire condition can have a big effect too. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
cupped front tire? steering bearings? | ||
| Crux |
ug...be careful. I can't imagine it would be steering bearings....I had a 1983 Honda Nighthawk 650 that I only had to replace the bearings on last year, right before I sold it. Could be inflation, or the grooved roads...I HATE grooved roads. Don't count out the rear either...could be isolators or something. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
to little or to much preload on the REAR shock can cause front end handling issues as can a bad REAR tire | ||
| Lake_bueller |
It could be road conditions, tire conditions, isolators, bearings, suspension settings, wind, etc, etc, etc. Or it could be that almost any bike without a steering dampner will get a little wobble at high speeds. | ||
| Outrider |
All the mechanical suggestions that have been posted are worth pursuing. To add to the list, if you have conventional forks, not the upside down variety, consider a fork brace. Fork flex sucks. I had them on all my bikes until the X1 and they really worked well at speed on both the grooved highway and twisties. On the physical side, you may be gripping the bars too tight. By trying to overcome a bikes normal tendency to wallow at high speed, you may be worsening the situation. Not to worry, tightening of your grip is a subconscious reaction and is worth checking out. | ||
| Chasespeed |
2 easy things you can check real quick... rub your hands, completely around the tire, one side, then the other, then do the rear.. I fyou feel cupping anywhere, or anything other than the rubber and grooves...there is your wobble... Next, take it for a ride, 20 minutes...get the tires hot, and check your pressure..try adjusting it a little each way...see how it responds... After those to easy checks, THEN i would pursue mechanical possibliites... As my front tire wears, I usually get this..usually about the time I shoudl be replacing it anyway...hard braking on the front esp[ecially will cause enough cupping to make the front wobble... Another thing, you could try... Induce the wobble(let the speed do it, not you pysically)...then ride without usuing your hands...see what the reaction is.. Chase | ||
| Outrider |
FYI...it was suggested a long time ago by an indy shop that I run 35psi front and rear on the X1 to prevent cupping, etc., on the street. Worked great for me both in the twisties and on the odometer. I got 7.5K miles out of my Dunlop 207's and forecast that or more out of my 208's. Never had a front wear out and replace both tires when the rear goes south on me. Then I don't push it much until up to speed. Was never into drag's, burnouts, wheelies or stoppies. Just good old fast riding in the technical stuff. | ||
| Denfromphilly |
I agree with Outrider. My Gold Wing is a 1981 that has a harmonic problem and tendency to wobble at 35 mph. Honda added counterweights that helped and the following year changed the fork design which is the ultimate fix. I have a fork brace than helps, and the biggest other factor is tire inflation. I had to play around with mine until I found a combination of front and rear pressure that played well together. The wobble on the GW passes between 35 and 40. I noticed on my X1 that the new tires, Michelin Pilot Power's. wobble at high speed on the grooved highway worse than the older harder Dunlops. I don't know why but I will try 35 psi front and rear and see how it feels and if it helps. I don't get to 120 much anyway as it's soooooo illegal it's pretty much a non issue. | ||
| Pressureangle |
I found out quickly at Daytona that two things (certainly, not the only two) cause that 'high speed wobble'. I'd describe what I had as more of a quick hunting than a wobble though. Firstly having the rear suspension too high, or the front too low. Secondly, and much worse, is holding the bars too tight and pulling on them instead of pushing. If inspection doesn't turn up anything mechanical, try getting it at the point you can feel the wiggle, and consciously push on both bars. If it goes away, you know that at least part of the problem is you. I'm sure the first time I raced the S-2 at Daytona, I scared the b'jeez out of anyone behind me, and looked like a drunken snake on the fast straights. | ||
| Outrider |
Is really interesting how the anxiety at higher speeds causes one to increase pressure on the grips which is about one of the worst things you can do. At those speeds, those two big gyros are keeping you up and fighting the flexing only causes them to take off on a new, unexpected direction. Still, if the suspected condition is any worst than the wallowing, I would be giving the bike a 100% going over. In fact, I would probably take it to a suspension shop and pay the price rather than investing in a multitude of band-aid remedies that may or may not work.  | ||
| Steveford |
What they said. Loose steering stem bearings is my guess from just sitting here. | ||
| Shadowracerx1 |
The only thing that finally fixed the wobble on my X1 was getting a fairing that wasn't attached to the steering. I imagine the bikini fairing was acting like a rudder in high winds. | ||
| Bandirola |
I rode this weekend with a pretty good load in my saddlebags. I did not increase the rear preload as I probably should have and the bike had a scary steering wobble exiting higher speed corners. I don't know much about suspension tuning, but too soft rear suspension makes sense. Dave |
