| Author | Message | ||
     Chasespeed |
Well, I somehow managed to snap a stud last night. Forward upper stud.. It snapped while riding, about 3 or 4 threads into the head. It happened while rolling down the highway... I know the exhaust was supported, and even now, it doesnt wiggle, just the flange is only held on by the one stud.. Anyway, ya'll know I live in a complex, and dont have a way to fix something like this.. What shoudl I expect to pay the stealership(or and indy shop) to pay for this.. Chase | ||
| Bluelightning |
Chase, Welcome to the "broken stud" club!! Not too sure what the Stealership will rape you for, but if you can get it, the JIMS stud drill guide is the way to go. I believe it cost around $80, then the stud is $2. It may be a good investment to have down the road. Around here, Jose Q. has the tool and lends it out the local guys (I actually have it right now to finish another guy's bike). Sorry for the luck!! | ||
| Chasespeed |
Well, the stealership just said, that the head is toast...(in other words, they dont wanna play with it)..and they havent even seen it yet... They said they have no way to drill it straight, etc, etc... So, now to call a couple custom shops...and maybe a head shop... Chase | ||
| Chasespeed |
Well, just got off the horn with a smaller shop...they said, if its as easy to get at as I said...15-20 minutes...lol.. worst case ON the bike..1 hour.. ABSOLUTE worst case...well, discuss later.. So, gonna have him have a look at it later..and hopefully get it fixed in a couple days when i have some money... still waitin gon that check from the move... Chase | ||
| Bluelightning |
Ok, so I was wrong about the $80. Al over at American Sport Bike sells it for $100. You can probably get the tool and a drill faster than you can get a shop to pull the head off and drill it out, which is what most shops will want you to do. With the tool, you just set it up and drill the stud in place, on the bike. Plus if you pull the head, you will need to replace the head and base gasket, and might as well re-ring and hone your cylinders. So unless you are ready to spend some big $$, cheap way is get the tool and drill yourself. Just take your time and have a good drill handy. | ||
| Chasespeed |
Well, teh major problem I am having is, I live in an apartment complelx..SO, no wrenching of the bike... I dont have a pickup, or a trailer... The guy at the local shop said he is 99% positive he has the tool mentioned above..and its been around for about 20 years.., hence the reference, to "if its as easy to get at..." Now, I am needing to re-do the base gaskets, and what not, thus, I am trying to squirel away enough money for that...which of course will entail a 1250 kit, and a little later, 536 cams...(would love to spring for head work too...but) But, being a broke enlisted type..everything right now, is gonna be piece-meal... Oh well...guess we are down to one vehicle for while.. Chase | ||
| Jlnance |
Well, the stealership just said, that the head is toast. That is sad. I drilled out a broken header stud the other day. I'm not a mechanic and it's the first major thing I've ever done to my bike. I didn't have the JIMS tool and it was still easy. If I can drill out a stud, anyone can do it. I don't know why they don't want to do it for you. | ||
| Samc |
ummm, because they'd rather do a $700 dollar job than a $70 one? Just a guess..... | ||
| Bluelightning |
ummm, because they'd rather do a $700 dollar job than a $70 one? Just a guess..... And they wonder why we call them "Stealerships" ?????? | ||
| 89rs1200 |
First, soak for some time with WD-40 or the like. Agree that the studs are easy to drill. Use a drill about 1/2 the diameter of the stud. Critical to drill straight down the stud. Then use an Easy Out. Better yet! you said you can see threads? use small vice grips to grab it and turn. There is very little pressure holding the stud in. It will be easy to turn once started. Once started you can just about turn it with your fingers. |
